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Track Car Brake Advice

Craig19789
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Deano 1 Mentor

Deano 1

Posted
Posted

I'm currently trialling some very cheap 2-piece rotors to fit stock brembo's - If they work out i will organise a group buy as they are almost half the price of DBA rotors. Got 2 track days over the next 2 month so I'll find out.

They are noisy as hell at the moment so not sure if the DS3000's bed in properly. Will get them out and give them a scrub over the next week or two and find out. Could be rotor composition as well though.

I've also been trying to organise a GB for front sets of the K-Sports but its proving a bit difficult at present.

DS3000's are also terrible when cold. But they are warm enough by the time i get to the end of my street (two deliberate stops from 60km-20km/h) so that doesn't worry me too much and they only get better from there.

Might try some 2500's as well but i am very hard on brakes.

id consider a set of Ksports if a GB was setup, they seam pritty good for the price, plus theres plenty of diffrent pad choices cause im pritty sure they run the same as AP.

Deano 1 Mentor

Deano 1

Posted
Posted

They should be for the money lol. They are some of the dearest ones they make.

It is the superlite 4 piston ones that you see on ebay which are the shit ones. Few threads about them.

even for the dearest ones they are cheap for brakes, be good to see how they go im sure it will be better than factory

MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted

EBC's really are very bad. I would highly recommend anyone that likes them trying a different pad. Its amazing how much better pretty much any brand name pad is than the EBC's. Endless and project MU aren't expensive for no reason.

Which EBC's? In what way bad?

I've tried DS2500 and DS3000 which are well respected and yeah they were fine (except 3000s are brutal on rotors if you use them cold, so no good for street). But the Yellows were just as good (and i'm running 60 more rwkw now) and far cheaper at the time.

ssxRicho Grand Master

ssxRicho

Posted
Posted

EBC Blue stuff on the front and yellow on the rear atm. Can't fault them yet. Yes they don't bite down hard like HC+ but I don't find them any worse. Both are similar

when cold and I haven't had them scream like Roy either, ala the f3000's.

Quite right they are AP style pad, so use whatever compound you like (they don't cost any/much more than the sumi sized pad)

Also, why do the rear calipers? ksport/g4/d2 front only is proven, works, provides fantastic stopping power.

Though I'm watching Ash's comments on the el-chepo dba5000 style rotors. $900+ for dba5000's that are made from some compound of bega cheese closedeyes.gif

In saying that they did do a good job and I had no problem with them, but didn't get 12 months out of em.

Craig19789 Collaborator

Craig19789

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Just an update,

I went for the D2 8 pot front calipers with the D2 356mm slotted 2 piece rotor. Delivered to my door for $1800. Install was only a few hours. I removed the stone guards and fitted a pair of UAS air deflectors.

I took the GTR for a run to wear the pads in and they seem like a vast improvement. Defenitely slows up and not once sence of lock up, fade, or pullng to either side.

post-81997-0-23206400-1300711236_thumb.jpg

post-81997-0-49366700-1300711254_thumb.jpg

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

I think late R34 GTRs have a slightly larger diameter front rotor, or was that the rear?

nah 33 and 34 all use 324mm front rotors. the only model with larger rears is the R34 N1... pretty rare though.

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

Are the rotors on the wrong sides? I thought the curves are ment to go with the rotation?

direction of the slots is actually not that important. it's the direction of the vanes that is important. as dave said on different brand rotors the slots will go different ways, what matters is that if your rotor has directional vanes that you mount them correctly. most cheap rotors have non-directional vanes though so it doesn't really matter, but it pays to check.

ssxRicho Grand Master

ssxRicho

Posted
Posted

These do have directional vanes, so they are on the correct way.

They look the goods in yellow.

I've had these at Calder and PI now....I'm still learning, there is sooooo much brake there now, it is changing the dynamic of the car.

y6yuuyvyg6.png

R32 TT Mentor

R32 TT

Posted
Posted

id consider a set of Ksports if a GB was setup, they seam pritty good for the price, plus theres plenty of diffrent pad choices cause im pritty sure they run the same as AP.

It ain't a group buy - but how about this: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/358507-k-sport-8-piston-brake-kit-gtr-r32/

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

direction of the slots is actually not that important. it's the direction of the vanes that is important. as dave said on different brand rotors the slots will go different ways, what matters is that if your rotor has directional vanes that you mount them correctly. most cheap rotors have non-directional vanes though so it doesn't really matter, but it pays to check.

As others have said, the slots matter for little, its the vanes. You will find that most rotor manufacturers like to slot the rotor accross the direction of the vane. So if you see slots going in the direction you were thinking, it could mean they are not curved vane, installed backwards or an older style of rotor before manufacturers saw less fatigue problems by slotting across the vane direction

heller44 Mentor

heller44

Posted
Posted

These do have directional vanes, so they are on the correct way.

They look the goods in yellow.

I've had these at Calder and PI now....I'm still learning, there is sooooo much brake there now, it is changing the dynamic of the car.

Is this a picture of your wheel, or a stock picture?

I have heard of issues with fitting larger brake set-ups behind RPF01 rims, even 330mm sets inside 17's. This combination is what I am looking at for my car, not wanting to go to 18's if I can possibly help it.

ssxRicho Grand Master

ssxRicho

Posted
Posted

That is my car, and yes they were a prick fitting. The stupid design extrudes as you get to the spokes.

I'm running 5mm justjap spacers (full face spacers with 5x114 holes only). I also had to knock the lower caliper hard lines closer to the body of the caliper.

Phillip Island, Calder and DECA proven so far. I have 50mm NISMO studs, but haven't put em on yet.

DSC_1358.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
Checkbuzz Rising Star

Checkbuzz

Posted
Posted (edited)

+1 for KSport - I have done my research on these puppies and just ordered the 8 pot 330mm kit from JustJap for a very sharp price indeed!

(Cheaper than their on-line advertised price)

Edited by Checkbuzz
Subboy Rookie

Subboy

Posted
Posted

I saw this a while ago on gtr.uk.

You can get the 4 pot willwoods machined to fit these pins giving you a dual purpose caliper.

post-50583-0-35943200-1301790398_thumb.jpg

post-50583-0-92122900-1301790405_thumb.jpg

post-50583-0-26417800-1301790416_thumb.jpg

post-50583-0-53623400-1301790427_thumb.jpg

post-50583-0-66430800-1301790574_thumb.jpg

post-50583-0-05954200-1301790588_thumb.jpg

These are mine, The work awesome with the Wilwood 6pot Superlite fronts I have on a set of 35mm x330mm floating front rotors on my R32 GTR.

I am however going to sell them soon if anyone is interested, as I have managed to get a set of Ex-V8 Supercar Alcons at a great price.

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