Jump to content
SAU Community

Lambchop With A Renault Axis Here...

WAGON_BOY

By WAGON_BOY,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • 3 months later...
  • Replies 979
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

WAGON_BOY
WAGON_BOY

just ordered some 18" Koya RG Tek's with Hankook Z222 semi slicks

Daleo
Daleo

Did you check the muffler bearings? Also, last time i was in your car; there was definitely a loose nut behind the steering wheel...

WAGON_BOY
WAGON_BOY

Haven't updated for a while not that I've really done much to it lately but did take it out to SMSP South Circuit again and managed to knock off another second off my lap time with a 1:08.26.

Posted Images

WAGON_BOY Mentor

WAGON_BOY

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Haven't updated for a while not that I've really done much to it lately but did take it out to SMSP South Circuit again and managed to knock off another second off my lap time with a 1:08.26.

post-83704-0-47917800-1398571877_thumb.jpg

post-83704-0-29891900-1398571943_thumb.jpg

post-83704-0-15143800-1398571963_thumb.jpg

  • Like 2
  • 2 weeks later...
WAGON_BOY Mentor

WAGON_BOY

Posted
  • Author
Posted

cheers guys on the kind words :)

turbo and injectors and retune etc will be on the cars but it still seems to be going strong so not going to worry atm, busy on my RX808 wagon trying to get that finished :)

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
WAGON_BOY Mentor

WAGON_BOY

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The cars been playing up since last Sunday, its like it wants randomly stall when cruising so what I'm thinking is maybe airflow meter or fuel filter, its due for its 105,000Km service so I think I'll give it the works and see how it goes after that.

But to make matters worse on Saturday a woman decided to side swipe my rear bar luckily no damage to the rear quarter, just another thing to piss me off!!! :(

DaveM35 Collaborator

DaveM35

Posted
Posted

If the airflow meter goes whilst driving it normally just goes straight into limp mode, but doesn't stall. That was my experience anyway.

Maybe a dodgy cam sensor? Or fuel pump? Would be easy to check if you can get a gauge.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

They don't always throw codes either.

Same, my engine light is up most of the time with the Fcon, but the AFM really isn't needed once you MAP tune it either. Only the gearbox cares.

  • 2 weeks later...
WAGON_BOY Mentor

WAGON_BOY

Posted
  • Author
Posted

swapped the airflow meter with a spare Dale had bought from Scotty but the cars still running like crap and now the AFR's are way to lean.

cruising now sits at 12 rather than 14
and when I hit boost even light throttle 5PSI I'm probably going under 10. (usually max throttle I'll hit the low 10's)

so 1) is the airflow meter the same do is the voltage different ?
or 2) do I need to do a ECU reset and relearn ?

otherwise I'm going to put my old one back in and try and find the problem why the car's wanting to stall mid driving/cruising.

tomorrow I might see if I can get the data off my tablet from the last few drives I've done to find the error.

PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

12 is richer than 14.

That is, 14 parts air, 1 part fuel.

So it's not in danger. However it does point to a potential issue. That is, intake or vacuum pipe/seal leak. So, it might want to stall from unmetered air on cruise, but leak air out under boost to make for a richer mixture as the afm is metering up stream.

Have a look at all pipes for disconnected hoses, or splits.

WAGON_BOY Mentor

WAGON_BOY

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I thought the airflow meter was the problem cos the voltages were spiking so I replaced it but it didn't fix anything so yeah I guess there could be a Intermittent leak somewhere.

but all my vacuum lines are new so I'm thinking it might be a solenoid or something to do with the fuel line valves.......

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Can you pressure test the intake to see if there are any leaks?

If there is no other reason for the change in AFR's I can send you another AFM to try... Unless someone up there can lend you one for a drive? Perhaps the Chinese one is slightly out? I would have thought it would be fine on cruise though...

Have you checked the O2 sensor is oscillating?

WAGON_BOY Mentor

WAGON_BOY

Posted
  • Author
Posted

well I finished wiring the fuel pump and replaced the fuel filter.
replaced the oil and put back in my original airflow meter.
put a fresh tank of Shell Optimax in as well.

took the car for about a 45min drive and everything seems to be ok.

didn't find an air leak although its still quite possible I'll see how it drives over the next week or so.......

WAGON_BOY Mentor

WAGON_BOY

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks for the offer Russell but I'll see how it goes for now haven't had any drama's yet and I've put my old afm back in.

the problem with Scotty's afm is I'll need to get a retune anyways :( or put a resistor on it to get the correct values like the stock one.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...