Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i havnt had an engine light on the F-CON since i cleared up my water damage in my harness.

clear dash except the airbag one :verymad:

No engine light since resetting mine, I have done over 1000ks now. :)

thanks for the offer Russell but I'll see how it goes for now haven't had any drama's yet and I've put my old afm back in.

the problem with Scotty's afm is I'll need to get a retune anyways :( or put a resistor on it to get the correct values like the stock one.

Why haven't you gone to a MAP sensor tune yet?

  • 2 months later...

on the upside of my RX7 woes I think I've blown the front drivers side wheel bearing on the Stagea again LOL

haven't even bothered with my F-Con problems either :(

  • 4 weeks later...

well I had a metal to metal scraping noise coming from the passengers side front wheel checked the brake out a few times and didn't seem to be rubbing so I replaced the wheel bearing only to find the noise was still there afterwards......... hhmmm wonder if its a CV ??? :(

  • 1 month later...

Okay i have a strange metal on metal scrapping noise its been driving me mad for a few months coming from the front passengers side.

firstly it does it mainly when coasting along as soon as you hit the throttle even a little bit it stops, and doesnt really make a difference if its loaded or unloaded.

so far I've checked the brakes, even went as far as pulling them off to inspect them. (sounded like a stone could've been stuck in it but wasn't) BTW i checked this multipul times.

then i bit the bullet and replaced the wheel bearing as its probably copped a hiding especially on the ripple strips at the track but the noise was still there.

next i thought I'd get the disc machined just in case, no difference.

still looking i thought the only other thing it could be would be the CV / drive shaft so i replaced that as well with no avail.

got to thinking maybe the front diff was on the way out and transmitting the noise out onto the wheel so i drained the fluid and everything looked pretty typical no major metal fillings and the fluid looked pretty clean.

so just incase its got anything to do with the gearbox I'm currently replacing the fluid in that as well ( doesn't go astray as its probably been 4 years since it was changed and i mainly drive in manual mode)

now I'm out of idea's and its driving me mad!!!

maybe the new wheel bearing was pressed in badly i dunno but it made the same sound minutes after it was changed from the old one.......


please i need your help before i go nuts!!!

You tried putting it up on stands and hunting out where the noise is coming from?

My first thoughts was disc rubbing on stone shield or even the bottom hub alloy thing.

I know my GTR discs rubbed on them before I adjusted them...

  • 7 months later...

It's been ages since I've posted here just over 110,000km and still going strong!!!

only thing that needs doing atm is regas the rear struts for the tailgate, it's one of those things PITA to organize and have time to get it done HAHA or I'm just to lazy and have better things to do with my spare time

  • 1 year later...
  • 2 years later...
  • 3 months later...

Its a SAD day, the Stagea went to its new home Yesterday, I hope the new owner loves it and looks after it as much as i have......

I know I'm  pretty much the last of the originals so if anyone's left and reading this i thank you all for the journey its been great!!!

This isn't the end for me, i love this club and will continue to be a part of the regular SAUNSW events etc.

Peace, Lambchops!!!

  • Like 1
1 hour ago, WAGON_BOY said:

Its a SAD day, the Stagea went to its new home Yesterday, I hope the new owner loves it and looks after it as much as i have......

I know I'm  pretty much the last of the originals so if anyone's left and reading this i thank you all for the journey its been great!!!

This isn't the end for me, i love this club and will continue to be a part of the regular SAUNSW events etc.

Peace, Lambchops!!!

Hope its gone to a good home!

  • Thanks 1
  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...