Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Shed could do with a pergola/awning imo, given how little depth it appears to have by those pics. You'd have to back it right against the back wall just to work in the engine bay without your ass hanging out in the sun :P

Otherwise this is shmexy as fuark.

Shed could do with a pergola/awning imo, given how little depth it appears to have by those pics. You'd have to back it right against the back wall just to work in the engine bay without your ass hanging out in the sun :P

Otherwise this is shmexy as fuark.

This is actually something we will be looking into as we plan to complete the driveway and connect it to the main driveway, while doing this we will also have colourbond fences and a garden shed done, its quite possible we will do a carport style thing as we cant get the cruiser in either shed :P

Good stuffs :) if I had use of a shed such as that beast, I'd be looking for another Skyline/turbo'd performance car to get myself back in the game. Working on the 33 when it was either my daily driver or restricted to using off-level driveways f**king sucked hard....but if I avoid either of those, it's not all that bad really. Hell, it was almost a good thing working on it coz it kept me out of the fridge :P

Good stuffs :) if I had use of a shed such as that beast, I'd be looking for another Skyline/turbo'd performance car to get myself back in the game. Working on the 33 when it was either my daily driver or restricted to using off-level driveways f**king sucked hard....but if I avoid either of those, it's not all that bad really. Hell, it was almost a good thing working on it coz it kept me out of the fridge :P

Expensive hobby either way :/

But after all the time and money it does make me smile everytime i drive it, when Carmen does pics of it etc i look at it and think..... Not bad!! haha :D

Some new mods coming soon to get this thing reliable so i can start posting some actual reliable track footage haha

Loving the man shed there Mat!

Before you fill it up too much, get some insulation in the walls and ceiling; and sheet it. Doesn't have to be perfect, but it makes a difference!

Colourbond garages are either freezing cold or boiling hot; insulation is cheap. ;)

Loving the man shed there Mat!

Before you fill it up too much, get some insulation in the walls and ceiling; and sheet it. Doesn't have to be perfect, but it makes a difference!

Colourbond garages are either freezing cold or boiling hot; insulation is cheap. ;)

Thanks Dale...

Its pretty well shaded so i think summer should be OK, not sure about winter though!

I know the stuff you mean, ill get most of the stuff moved in anyway and see how it goes BUT if its an issue, like you say its cheap enough to do :D

Thanks Dale...

Its pretty well shaded so i think summer should be OK, not sure about winter though!

I know the stuff you mean, ill get most of the stuff moved in anyway and see how it goes BUT if its an issue, like you say its cheap enough to do :D

Lol, didn't mean to tell you what to do; I'd imagine insulating a shed is probably pretty low down the list of priorities...

It is nice though...

Pot belly stove in the corner for winter!

Don't plug all ya fridges in you dope, you'll just end up paying dorrahs to cool nothing! Also, it's cheaper to run a full fridge than almost empty, so use the freezer to store snags and steaks when you bulk buy :) man tips ;)

Also, silicon 90s are just fine, so long as you position them more than 3 cm from the glowing hot exhaust manifold or give them some protection :P

But I bet your solution will be top notch, they have been so far!

I agree, the silicone 90 on my outlet has been fine for 4 years and 6 track days, it's close to the manifold too. I would just make up a heat shield for it and see how it goes.

Pot belly stove in the corner for winter!

Don't plug all ya fridges in you dope, you'll just end up paying dorrahs to cool nothing! Also, it's cheaper to run a full fridge than almost empty, so use the freezer to store snags and steaks when you bulk buy :) man tips ;)

Also, silicon 90s are just fine, so long as you position them more than 3 cm from the glowing hot exhaust manifold or give them some protection :P

But I bet your solution will be top notch, they have been so far!

Yep good advice man! We will work out the best plan... And yeah bulk meat FTW!!! No homo!!! :ph34r:

I agree, the silicone 90 on my outlet has been fine for 4 years and 6 track days, it's close to the manifold too. I would just make up a heat shield for it and see how it goes.

Interesting! I dunno WTF my issue is then..... the second one lasted 4-5 laps and is GOOOOOOONE!!! And i made sure the best i could it was fitted right given the working conditions i had, even if it had a slight kink i cant see 20psi being enough to do this -

IMG_7293_zps9c15b9be.jpg

IMG_7294_zpse5894e9f.jpg

The old one lasted 2000km including a Texi event where it would have been red hot, so why did the new one last so little? They both split in different spots too! The pipes are smooth and there is no evidence of contact with anything! Fkn :wacko:

heat & ze boost ?

Yeah that seems to be the combo for fail BUT why are so many others managing to survive and mine hasnt?

Either way i will fix the problem good and proper BUT just want to make sure i am not missing anything obvious to make sure i get it fixed for good!

Yep good advice man! We will work out the best plan... And yeah bulk meat FTW!!! No homo!!! :ph34r:

Hahaha lost my shit!!

Also just to throw my 2c in with the piping, I got told by Paul at pulse racing that hard pipes are generally a good idea due to the heat from the engine bay (and the boosted air to a point I guess) causing the silicone to weaken and then the pressure of the air inside forces the weakened pipe outwards which results in splits. Apparently the same goes for intake pipes (although they get sucked in rather than pushed out)

I would say this applies more to where you were using it on the track Matt more so than dailies due to different heat and boost conditions

Edited by RBrennan25

Yeah, it's the prolonged heat from the track that's a killer mate.

Texi was short bursts, not enough to make it hot enough.

Remember, Nick was laughing at me when I got a 3rd degree burn in my forehead, when it touched the front housing of my turbo, not the exhaust, but just the front. Was probably 250 degrees....

Hahaha lost my shit!! Also just to throw my 2c in with the piping, I got told by Paul at pulse racing that hard pipes are generally a good idea due to the heat from the engine bay (and the boosted air to a point I guess) causing the silicone to weaken and then the pressure of the air inside forces the weakened pipe outwards which results in splits. Apparently the same goes for intake pipes (although they get sucked in rather than pushed out) I would say this applies more to where you were using it on the track Matt more so than dailies due to different heat and boost conditions

Yep i agree... And both splits were on the manifold side i guess which shows it being the weakest point! I thought Texi would have killed it as it should have been even hotter with no airflow through the front etc... Anyway, the shakedown was a success and i am glad i found it here and not all the way down in SA if i was still going to the Nationals!

As the car will start to see more track than street in the near future i have a few changes to make to keep it reliable!

Also have some changes in the engine bay and also the driveline which i will elaborate on soon, i have been working with Jim Berry on the clutch as the gearbox has to come out soon anyway and we are going to change the design a little to make it more suitable for the style of driving i will be doing, Jim has been fantastic as always and is very keen to try out the new style!

Yeah, it's the prolonged heat from the track that's a killer mate.

Texi was short bursts, not enough to make it hot enough.

Remember, Nick was laughing at me when I got a 3rd degree burn in my forehead, when it touched the front housing of my turbo, not the exhaust, but just the front. Was probably 250 degrees....

Yep, well its the first time its ever had it so i am glad the problem has been found and will be solved!

Haha really? I would have done this --> :rofl: had i known...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...