Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Interesting choice in rear housing... One of the guys over here in WA had a ATP twin scroll rear for his GT35R but it had dags all through the casting and lots of different defects (may have been a one off but would be advisable to check)

What was the reasoning behind the 1.0 twin scroll rather than a 0.8 single scroll?

Edited by SimonR32

Interesting choice in rear housing... One of the guys over here in WA had a ATP twin scroll rear for his GT35R but it had dags all through the casting and lots of different defects (may have been a one off but would be advisable to check)

What was the reasoning behind the 1.0 twin scroll rather than a 0.8 single scroll?

I couldn't find a T3 6boost manifold at the time but I could get a T4 for a good price.

Interesting choice in rear housing... One of the guys over here in WA had a ATP twin scroll rear for his GT35R but it had dags all through the casting and lots of different defects (may have been a one off but would be advisable to check)

What was the reasoning behind the 1.0 twin scroll rather than a 0.8 single scroll?

The slag would be my main concern, check thoroughly! http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb146/hr31rb26coupe/HR31%20track%20prep/atp_1p06_t4_slag.jpg

Thanks for the advise. I'll check it thoroughly for sure!

Lol Russ...good work so far mate and I look forward to racing against it on the track (someone has to keep you honest) ;)

You might even find it harder to catch me now :P

So just out of interest is ACE workshop an actual workshop or just a team name?

Ive always loved Jap built cars that seem to go and go and go. one of the cars i look after is still 95% how it arived from japan and it has done 4 or so seasons racing.

this is a grate build thread by the way. car gets plenty of use.

So just out of interest is ACE workshop an actual workshop or just a team name?

Ive always loved Jap built cars that seem to go and go and go. one of the cars i look after is still 95% how it arived from japan and it has done 4 or so seasons racing.

this is a grate build thread by the way. car gets plenty of use.

ACE Workshop + Dyno is Matt (Chewy) Femino's dad's business. They specialise in carby refurbishment and tuning. They also have all the equipment for EFI cars and they Tune PowerFC's and a few other type of ECU's.

ACE WORKSHOP

ACE Workshop + Dyno is Matt Femino's dad's business. They specialise in carby refurbishment and tuning. They also have all the equipment for EFI cars and they Tune PowerFC's and a few other type of ECU's.

ACE WORKSHOP link

I just call it 'team' ace workshop coz there are a few of us that hit the track from time to time and all the cars are built there.

Yeah the way my old car was setup was almost faultless. I saved a hell of a lot of money by buying a car that was already modified instead of doing it all my self back in the day.

Russ, great thread.

You were the guy that made me re-think things with my GTR and track-cars (you've probably seen my thread).

Seeing the facts and figures that you and Roy were achieving made me realise that just owning a nice horsepower (costly) GTR does not make a good track car.

Watching this thread with interest

You realise you have started an arms race? You have less weight, more tyre and talent so fark knows when and how I am going to be able to keep up

Dunno about less weight Troy. But more power and tyre for sure :P BTW are you coming to SL this year? I need your advise again :)

I dont think I will be at Superlap. I will be in Europe (catch is i need to stick out work for another 6 weeks and having serious doubts whether I could be bothered with work anymore)

My car is basically isnt really lightened. Air con got removed because of the fire, rear wiper is gone and alloy GTR bonnet. Thats it really for my car. Has all the sound deadening, stereo, most of the interior etc. Keen to see how the 25 goes for you....i have cheater motor on a pallet if i need a hand :)

UPDATE:

Success today with me and Matt having a go at pumping the rear guards to fit the massive wheels and tyres.

We used a porta-power (pneumatic ram), grinder, hammers and 2 heat guns.

post-10715-0-92004300-1303717228_thumb.jpg

Overall we pumped them approximately 35mm extra over what was already flared a few years ago. So overall it's about 50mm wider than GTSt guard :D

We had to cut the inner guard and reinforcing to allow it to stretch out.

post-10715-0-44351900-1303717102_thumb.jpg

Considering what we did the guard has come away ok. It kinked in a few spots above the arch but really it's better than we expected. The paint didn't even crack! We kept it really hot throughout with the head guns.

There is plenty of room under there now and with dynamic camber it should never hit.

This is now it started

post-10715-0-38483700-1303716950_thumb.jpg

post-10715-0-70509600-1303715166_thumb.jpgpost-10715-0-46109800-1303715423_thumb.jpgpost-10715-0-59026400-1303715477_thumb.jpg

This is what it got to!

post-10715-0-96714500-1303715736_thumb.jpgpost-10715-0-74289500-1303716638_thumb.jpg

Overall it took about 3 hours. Next is doing the other quarter...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes the gear for the R33/34 is different, it is red and has a different number of teeth. My part didn't come with that gear though, so I don't know how many teeth are on the red one. You'd have to reuse the 260RS/R33 gear, as long as it's not destroyed.   Haha, as unfortunate as that might be it was working fine for about the first 1500km I've had the car for now.
    • Update all   thanks to the workshop manual, it lead me back to checking fuses as mentioned central locking and door open lights worked when acc was switched on. diagram attached shows two points of power 1. ACC and 2.  Batt with the later being fused (#28) I did check the fuses using a multimeter but I must have stuffed that up also. Went back and checked the batt fuse in interior fuse box and you wouldn’t believe it… a blown fuse. replaced fuse and everything is now working as it should including the climate control   thank you all with your positive insight and knowledge.    
    • Where is the warning "That this thread is super old"   I just went into a 5 year old thread, went to do a reply, and couldn't see anywhere obvious a warning of it being super old
    • Duncan is correct. Pitwork (and Toyota's own cheap brand "Drive Joy") were primarily created as brands to sell other manufacturers car parts. It would be weird if Nissan sold parts for Toyota vehicles with a Nissan logo on it, so they created Pitwork to sell parts for other brans Toyota, Honda etc. They are not the same as Nissan genuine parts, although they *do* meet Nissan's standards for replacement parts. They aren't supposed to be a substitute for genuine parts, but a cheaper alternative that is better than Ebay fake parts from you-know-where.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, much easier to work with it now it's free!  
×
×
  • Create New...