Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It is possible to see a significant performance increase from a remapped ECU as long as those that remap it are aware of your mods, have a heap of experience with the model of car and, finally, are damn good at what they do.

It will never be as accurate as an in-car tune, but going from 140awkw to 190awkw on a remap with supporting mods done would not be out of the realms of possibility.

G-Zone want to know specifics of your setup, as many as they can get without actually physically having the car. Details are pretty much limited to intake/exhaust though, i.e. what air filter, exhaust, diameter of exhaust, intercooler upgrades, etc, and they supply your reflashed ECU according to these specs.

They seem to know more about the cars than anyone else, and from my research seem to be good at what they do.

I'm still sitting on the fence at the moment, second guessing a bit, but from what they're asking sounds like I should get the exhaust and front mount done first (my next two things) before I go with the flash, and that way I can supply them the exact pipe diameter, which they seem to want.

I wonder if I can just do a log on the emanage and send it to them? The output fuelling map and timing maps may help them but its probably best I tell them the basics and adjust the rest here.

Not much room left, the wastegate is going to mount under the housing.

post-63525-0-73330200-1303988101_thumb.jpg

post-63525-0-70572900-1303988130_thumb.jpg

Yes, it's on my extremely long list of thing to do...

Re; boost control. Is that because you can build full boost lower in the rev range?

The boost controller has a Gain setting that allows you to bring the boost on earlier and faster plus a little more pressure. I am running 17psi and this gives a good launch even without stalling it up but I do know what you mean.

The Impul does not change the throttle response significantly (if at all) but it does improve the fueling, remove boost cut, speed limiter and increase rev limit.

As was mentioned, my best estimate is around 180kw but Spoolin's car had 215kw with basically the same mods so this could well be closer to the mark especially as I hit 100% duty cycle around 7000rpm.

The issue of improving the throttle response with a remap like the Nismo ECU is that when Jetwreck had his tune done on his car (270kw) the tuner had to decrease the response of the throttle as it was too hard to work with in creating a safe tune.

I don't know the answer but it is a complicated ECU.

I wonder if I can just do a log on the emanage and send it to them? The output fuelling map and timing maps may help them but its probably best I tell them the basics and adjust the rest here.

Not much room left, the wastegate is going to mount under the housing.

Looking good Scott... :)

The issue of improving the throttle response with a remap like the Nismo ECU is that when Jetwreck had his tune done on his car (270kw) the tuner had to decrease the response of the throttle as it was too hard to work with in creating a safe tune.

So... remap might be useless later on when used with a piggyback?

I wonder if I can just do a log on the emanage and send it to them? The output fuelling map and timing maps may help them but its probably best I tell them the basics and adjust the rest here.

Not much room left, the wastegate is going to mount under the housing.

i dont think these pictures do much justice. see it in person, and you'll see how the clearance is. its going to be fun scott. thats all I can say!

I wonder if I can just do a log on the emanage and send it to them? The output fuelling map and timing maps may help them but its probably best I tell them the basics and adjust the rest here.

Not much room left, the wastegate is going to mount under the housing.

nice work scott.....looking good!!!

Well I'm still up for the re-map. For the price we are going to get an ecu that is somewhat custom written for the mods we have so I think it's worthwhile over a generic Mines or Impul one. For Craig and Scott with heavily modded cars it is probably a different story but I'm never goin that far with my car and the only other mod I can think of doing is maybe a boost controller. I've pretty much convinced myself this is what I'm going to do unless someone sneds me an Impul or Mines or Nismo ecu for $100. Craig? Andy??? Anyone?

Well I'm still up for the re-map. For the price we are going to get an ecu that is somewhat custom written for the mods we have so I think it's worthwhile over a generic Mines or Impul one. For Craig and Scott with heavily modded cars it is probably a different story but I'm never goin that far with my car and the only other mod I can think of doing is maybe a boost controller. I've pretty much convinced myself this is what I'm going to do unless someone sneds me an Impul or Mines or Nismo ecu for $100. Craig? Andy??? Anyone?

lol Thats what they all say.

if your thinking about mofifying one or two things.. just a heads up at the domino effect.

Nah I have been there many times and have learnt my lesson! This car's mds will end with the ecu and MAYBE a boost controller. I'm not rebuilding gearboxes etc. This car is never going to be stupid fast witout a LOT of money spent on it and if I wanted to do that I would start with a VQ35 and do what Scott has done.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...