Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 165
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hi guys before you start telling me off about how illegal and dangerous and bad it is to do so, I'm just asking for some opinions and thoughts about my question, not the ethics behind it, thanks.

So tonight, I dragged my manual stock 99' R34 coupe against my mate's stock 97' ej8 Honda civic and barely beat him. He's running a 1.6L single cam engine, while I have a 2.5L twin cam rb25de....what amazes me is that he kept up and I just barely won at about 120km/h. Then he kept telling me how he didn't get a good start, here's how I started off the line. Revved to 4k RPM, as soon as the light went green I dumped the clutch and floored the gas changing gears as fast as I could at around 7000 rpm. My tires lost traction after about 10metres and I had to adjust my steering wheel left and right to keep the car straight. I could see him in my peripheral vision and in the end I beat him. Now are NA skylines really that slow that they can't even match a puny car like an old civic? I can't imagine what a drag against an integra type R or even an S would be like, totally smoking an NA skyline, how embarrassing.

In the car I also had my mate who weighed 80kG if that makes a difference?

Are NA skylines really that much of a heavy slow car that eats fuel and is shit at drags?

How would my car compare to other N/A cars in stock if it were identically skilled drivers?

Any thoughts please?

Thanks.

You're doing it wrong.

> Hey nafags

> Today i f**ked this ricer piece of shit civic in a race... f**king burner bro... full thought he was king shit with vtec

> f**ked him up mate

> anyways my cars f**king slow whys that?

either that or just don't mention it was a street race?

"So we were at the drags and we did *blah*"

Do you REALLY think anyones going to know any different?

I know people who "go to the drags" every weekend for three years, yet they've been to wsid once or twice.

inb4 p-plate hoon; I just think the guys an idiot for openly admitting to breaking the law on a public forum.

'93 stock NA Supra will do 0-100 anywhere between 6.2 (independently tested) and 6.7secs (factory claimed) according to various sources. nyaanyaa.gif

Yeah cool. We did this for lols. My mates na supra vs another mates normal 3.5 litre 2002 magna ( not a vrx or a ralliart). Magna shat all over it.

Yeah cool. We did this for lols. My mates na supra vs another mates normal 3.5 litre 2002 magna ( not a vrx or a ralliart). Magna shat all over it.

Too many variables. Were both auto, modded, did they both launch, were they good launches, good shifts, good/bad tyres, did the Supra single peg, blah blah.

I've witnessed this exact line up too and the Supra shat all over the Magna. They're both very similar in speed (slow) and it really comes down to mods/driver skill.

For the record, Ralliart Magna's are slower than the "normal" ones, and VRX is pretty much a luxury version with no performance upgrades.

Too many variables. Were both auto, modded, did they both launch, were they good launches, good shifts, good/bad tyres, did the Supra single peg, blah blah.

I've witnessed this exact line up too and the Supra shat all over the Magna. They're both very similar in speed (slow) and it really comes down to mods/driver skill.

For the record, Ralliart Magna's are slower than the "normal" ones, and VRX is pretty much a luxury version with no performance upgrades.

you might want to do some more research on them. vr-x had between 8 and 20kw more power than the executive (vr-x was 163kw, executive was 143kw in the TH and early TJ models, 155kw in the series 2 TJ models and later), and the ralli-art had 180kw. they are both a touch faster than the executive models. fastest "mildly moded" NA magna in QLD runs about 14.4 1/4 mile. there are faster NA and force fed ones, but they have more mods than simple exhaust, etc.

you might want to do some more research on them. vr-x had between 8 and 20kw more power than the executive (vr-x was 163kw, executive was 143kw in the TH and early TJ models, 155kw in the series 2 TJ models and later), and the ralli-art had 180kw. they are both a touch faster than the executive models. fastest "mildly moded" NA magna in QLD runs about 14.4 1/4 mile. there are faster NA and force fed ones, but they have more mods than simple exhaust, etc.

You're right the VRX does have slightly more power, but the Ralliart is still slower, according to ultra reliable source that Wikipedia is. They claim the whilst it handled infinitely better the added weight of the AWD system slowed it down despite the additional power.

Oh really, so p players can't have imports? Sucks to be you guys lol

We have one of the more easier P-plate systems, doesn't even have P-plate Car restriction, the only other state more easier than us is TAS I think...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...