Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Must sell to make room for more customer cars!

Konig Rewind 14x7-7 with near new kumho tyres $400 pair

Performance Challengers 15x8-10 no Tyres $400 pair

S15 standard wheels, pair with tyres $50

S13 Stock front and rear and $30 each

S13 front drivers guard, two, $100

S13 front reo bar, perfect $100

S13 rear garnishs $20 each

S13 dash clusters $20 each

S13 door mirrors $20 each

S13 tail lights, two pairs, $50 each

S13 steering column complete with keys and barrel $100

S13 castor rod brackets, castor rods, toe arms, traction arms $20 each

S13 sway bars, front and rear, $20 each

S13 Rear LCAs $70 each

S13 rear hubs with wheel bearing $50 each

S13 non hicas subframes, $80 each

S13 driveshafts 6 bolt and 5 bolt $50 each

S13/R32 LSD Diffs, various ratios, $200 each

S13 handbrake cables $100

S13 Heater core $50

S13 Dash, 1 tiny crack, black, $25

S13 interior switches/vents etc $5 each

S13 parcel shelf/rear seat sheet metal cover, great for track days $80

S13 front grills $5

S13 wiper arms $20 each

180SX 50mm no vent jap made front guards $250 pair

180SX front bar, standard SR type, $20

180SX front bar indicators, crystal clear type, $50 pair

S14 Series 2 front bar indicators, crystal clear type, $50 pair

SR S13 power fc and hand controller used in box with manuals mint $900

SR S14 power fc and hand controller used mint condition $800

SR S13 52mm twin core radiator, new in box $220

SR engine fan assembly complete $50

SR standard sumps $10 each

SR engine mounts $100 pair

SR standard exhaust manifolds $30 each

SR standard S13 intake manifolds $20 each

SR NON TURBO 60mm throttle body, upgrade your DET $50 each

SR TURBO injectors $40 set

RB20 engine fan assembly complete $40

RB20 S13/R32 52mm twin core radiator, new in box $220

1JZ twin turbo setup, all intake pipes, 2 turbos etc etc $100

CA20 gearbox, perfect, $100

CA18 HKS CAMS, 256 8.5in 264 8.5ex $300

CA18 Pacemaker Fireball Extractors $100

CA18 S13 52mm twin core radiator, new in box $220

Turbosmart Boost controllers, manual, $30 each

AE86 rear shocks, TRD Blue 8 way adjustable, perfect condition, $250 pair

AE86 steering knuckles $50

  • 2 weeks later...

Ive got one you can have for free mate if you can pull it out but it has paint all over it, could be cleaned off i would imagine... you could just cut the bodyshell up and take the whole rear pillars and get the glass removed somewhere else also.

PM sent mate

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...