Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey so I'm not sure where to post this but since I'm in Sydney and it has to do with area I'm putting it here. New to the website but been interested in owning a skyline for many years. So I've finally decided to jump in and buy one. My dads offered to help me out too. So my question is. Where can I find one from a dealer? Im pretty sure I've got a thorough checklist of what to look for. I just need to know where to look. Any advice or suggestions?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373217-new-to-skylines-where-can-i-get-one/
Share on other sites

Hi Maxx, welcome to the scene :D

As well as dealers (people have mixed experiences), you may want to look at cars for sale from the NSW Skyline club's members. That way you are saving money by buying privately, and have better confidence about the car because many people will be familiar with it.

What are you looking for, and what is your budget?

Welcome mate. I know there are some good dealers out there but I've had a few rough experiences. Try to stick to recommended ones on these forums.

Buying from members on these forums is probably ideal, or have a look at carsales. If you're unsure on a car get one of the specialised performance mechanics in sydney, one familiar with skylines, to have a look over it for you. Most mechanics will say they can do it, but not all are familiar with skylines.

Also the NRMA inspections are probably pretty good for common cars but was useless when I bought my r34...

Welcome mate. I know there are some good dealers out there but I've had a few rough experiences. Try to stick to recommended ones on these forums.

Buying from members on these forums is probably ideal, or have a look at carsales. If you're unsure on a car get one of the specialised performance mechanics in sydney, one familiar with skylines, to have a look over it for you. Most mechanics will say they can do it, but not all are familiar with skylines.

Also the NRMA inspections are probably pretty good for common cars but was useless when I bought my r34...

+1 for the carsales

Thanks do much for all of your replies. My dad knows the guy who runs the Aussie division of haltech and he's offered to look at any car I consider buying. I wanted to go through a dealer because I can't afford the upfront cost of a 33 right now and I really would like one as sort of a birthday present to myself (birthday is September)

I've been on car sales quite a bit and seen a few but only one dealership car.

Do any of you have any experiences with Top Secret Imports in blacktown? I went there yesterday and they were friendly and quite honest as well.

The vast majority of people who get a loan or get finance seem to regret it, because you're paying for maintenance and repairs as well as sill paying the car off. Myself included in that, don't have the car, do have the debt. Not exactly a happy ending.

Save your money, buying from a yard you will be paying top dollar for a average car, also interest will add 30% to the price, and then you will need full insurance, factor in a grand or two for that if you can get it due to your age or mods on the car.

If you buy privately you may be able to buy a better car for less money, its a buyers market.

Don't buy a rolling defect with a body kit and 20" rims, buy a neat car with sensible mod,s, its better to have a car that looks stock but goes,stops and handles than a car that looks like its from FnF but gets blown at the lights by someones mum in their Camery.

Good points mlr, one thing I should add is that don't go looking at cars without knowing what mods you'd be happy with. It's too easy to just look what mods are out there but if you're new to cars you might en up buying a car with 5-10 grand worth of mods that barely runs and gets defected on the drive home.

I'm going to be a plus one to the not getting finance for a car. Not unless you know you can pay it off in like 6 months. It's just a pure hassle!

Secondly, I'd prefer to go for a car on the private market. It really is a buyers market, and there are SOOO MANY bargains to be had. Also, with a dealer, their interest rates can be 6 - 10 % higher then a personal loan from the ones that I've seen. It's better to get a personal loan, and buy a car from the private market that is in good condition.

Just gauge what the proper value of the cars are, alot of people are asking WAYYY too much for some cars. In 99% of cases mods do NOT add value to a car, it's all about the overall condition of the vehicle, how it drives, how it looks, is the motor good and sound, etc etc.

Do any of you have any experiences with Top Secret Imports in blacktown? I went there yesterday and they were friendly and quite honest as well.

I think they are by far the best of a bad bunch!

I've been there a couple of times and they make you feel very comfortable without pressure.

If I couldn't find what I was looking for privately but could get something from them I would.

I agree with everything typed above...... Get a personal loan, heaps cheaper rate and you can spend the extra on a better car. What's your budget and model preference?

Cheers,

Bob.

Top Secret Imports is importing my R34 GTR at the moment once they find one to my liking. Chose these guys over a few others just because they don't talk shit to you like every other salesman. Even going to do me a reasonable trade in if I don't sell my current car by the time the paper works becomes official.

I agree with Mr Flynn, just be sure you know your own financial position and be sure to have someone that really knows Skylines to check it out for you.

If it is modified assume that anything you can't visually inspect isn't really done. Also be sure to put aside at least 1k as emergency "fix it" money. Skylines are great cars but because they make good power, you should assume it has been abused at some point in its life that will need to be replaced.

Remember most 32, 33, and 34's are at least 10 years old if not more. There will be maintenance items you'll need to take care of. No matter how thoroughly you have the car checked out you are buying a used car so parts are worn.

Be sure to have a compression check done and if possible inspect the turbo to make sure it doesn't have play.

Good luck with it. I bought my skyline several years ago and am lov'n it.

Thanks again for all of your replies. So I've decided the a personal loan is probably the better option at this point in time. Just so I'm not ruling out buying from a private seller. I know my way around a skyline pretty well but my dads mate is gonna come with me to inspect any car I consider. He also owns a workshop of sorts and has a hoist and compression tester. Just so I know what to expect, what should the normal compression be for an rb25det engine? I used to have a workshop manual but I've since lost it between moves :( Im after a relatively stock 33 but minor mods won't phase me, such as exhaust and boost and sound system and also body kit and rims. However if the last two are over done, not interested :) top secret were great. They've put down what car I am interested in and color preference in case they get a car that suits. Obligation free though :) anyone heard of Edward lee imports or something like that? I was told to go see them after Jap link weren't very helpful at all.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...