Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

GT3040 which is old school, 18psi @ 3900rpm. Boost is pretty irrelevant as ultimately it is all about how much airflow the turbo makes at each rpm level and therefore how much torque/power at that point.

The 0.82 has a nice linear delivery.

Thats prob too laggy for me plus is wheelspin gunna b an issue with more than 270kw on the street? Its great to have a large power figure but getting it to the ground is the other issue. Ive gotta kaaz 2 way and quite a good handling setup

Thats prob too laggy for me plus is wheelspin gunna b an issue with more than 270kw on the street? Its great to have a large power figure but getting it to the ground is the other issue. Ive gotta kaaz 2 way and quite a good handling setup

Yea, as he said, the 3040 is old school and it's also larger then what you're planning to run. I would expect a gtx3071 with .82 to be on full boost more like 3400-3500 rpm. as said though, if you want a bolt on solution for 250-280kw, it's getting hard to beat the current hypergear offerings. Both on price and performance.

Thats prob too laggy for me plus is wheelspin gunna b an issue with more than 270kw on the street? Its great to have a large power figure but getting it to the ground is the other issue. Ive gotta kaaz 2 way and quite a good handling setup

Mick the car makes plenty of power down low, it is not wheelspin city.

There are better turbos out there today than the GT3040 I have but it produces similar numbers to many GT3076's. I have owned and driven cars with stock turbos, bushbearing stock rebuilds, GCG hi-flows, HKS GT-RS, HKS 2835ProS and looking at a dyno plot will not tell you everything about how they are to drive on the road. When the engine comes out I am changing to a twin scroll GT3076 just to see how much (if any) better it is than what I have.

DaleFZ1 back to back tested a GT3076 with a HKS2835ProS and he reckons there wasn't much in it but preferred the GT3076.

Any turbo that can make 180-200rwkw at 4000rpm is going to be a very quick streeter regardless of what boost it is running...

Yes always the same debate over the gap in Garretts turbine range - meaning GT28 to GT30 and theres little feedback on the GTXs so far .

Theres also been uncertainty from those using the original GT3071Rs with some thinking in 0.63 A/R turbine housing form doesn't deliver while the 0.82 T housings seems a little laggy .

As Mr Woolaf mentioned the Mafia had some good times from his GT3076R/0.63 A/R turbine housing though he did use water injection to keep temps in check .

If I was going to use a GT30 based turbo on a street RB25DET I'd look for the mid or 52 compressor trim version of the GT3037S/GT3076R (same thing) and put the 0.63 A/R Garrett GT30 integral (internal) wastegate turbine housing on it . The 52T GT compressor is good for I think 90% of the 56T versions airflow and has a better comp map IMO . These like the 56T version have port shrouded compressor housings on them which removes ALL the surge issues people can have with responsive while powerfull turbochargers .

My take is that if turbo (turbine actually) lag bothers you , at all , use the 0.63 A/R turbine housing because thats whats going to bring the thing on reasonably early so you get to enjoy you car/engine without having to rev the tits off it all the time .

At the end of the day if you can turn and burn the tyres almost at will it doesn't matter how many killerwasps the dyno counts because you have more power/torque than traction anyway .

I have a 52T GT3076R in 0.82 IW form I bought a few years ago and I think GCG and possibly Garrett here in Sydney keep them in stock these days . I'm not so sure you'd get any great discounting from either of them but sometimes when you want things a little less mainstream you cop a premium . You would have to call and ask for pricing . I'm only keeping mine in case I built a dirty 30 though I have no immediate plans for that .

Personally I would not limit myself to the std dump pipe configuration with a GT30 based turbocharger , they work well for GT28 based turbos or those using the VG30 OP6 turbine housing but they lack flow potential for a 500 Hp capable turbine like the GT30 one .

Its not the end of the world to buy or make a dump pipe for the IW GT30 turbine housings and the easiest ones are the open or bell mouthed ones . Being a bit bigger in the turbo flange means its probably a lot less fiddly that doing the RB or even the T28 style ones .

I'm not that keen on the store bought divorced ones for these housings because some mobs cheap out by trying to hole saw two holes through the turbo flange and the gates outlet is the wrong shape and the pipe small . I think to make a divorced one properly means making what some call a "shell back" something like the HKS GT Pro S ones or the Megan Racing ones for Evos . Its a lot more work for something that may work if NASA frigged around with it for a week with lots of flow bench testing , $300,000 dollars later ... Bellmouth is simple easy and works well enough IMO .

Anyway this is what I'd do for a road RB25 where power and response is the requirement . You read here all the time about people who went with big turbine housings or bigger turbos looking for the big top end power numbers but they hate how their car now drives . Sure it makes the numbers but buzzing the engine everywhere in low gears so the thing gets going when they prod it gets REALLY boring REALLY quickly .

What I think the vast majority want is more poke starting not much if any higher than what the car had originally and it can be done if they think a bit conservatively . If you can live with 260 Kw maybe a GCG Hi Flow or a HKS GTRS is enough and it sounds like both would be more responsive that just about any GT30 based turbo .

If anyone you know has these can you go for a spin with them ?

Also I know others do good Hi Flows but its hard to impossible to beat the reliability of ball bearing centre sections , if you're going to work a turbo hard a properly designed ball bearing centre section stands up to radial and end thrust loads better and with less friction .

I'm in now way insulting plain bearing Hi Flows but people have to understand that plain bearings are less costly than small high temp and speed capable ball bearings so its a costing issue . If the price was the same no one would sell plain bearing turbos , its the extra for BB ones that some cannot afford and we all have to live within our means .

My 2 cents , cheers A .

Edited by discopotato03
My take is that if turbo (turbine actually) lag bothers you , at all , use the 0.63 A/R turbine housing because thats whats going to bring the thing on reasonably early so you get to enjoy you car/engine without having to rev the tits off it all the time .

At the end of the day if you can turn and burn the tyres almost at will it doesn't matter how many killerwasps the dyno counts because you have more power/torque than traction anyway .

Anyway this is what I'd do for a road RB25 where power and response is the requirement. You read here all the time about people who went with big turbine housings or bigger turbos looking for the big top end power numbers but they hate how their car now drives. Sure it makes the numbers but buzzing the engine everywhere in low gears so the thing gets going when they prod it gets REALLY boring REALLY quickly .

I actually don't see that many threads on what you said in bold on here, if anything I've seen more people moving up from high flows and GT2x based turbos to full GT30s. I personally moved to a .82 from a .63 56T GT3076R and never looked back - I found it incredibly easy to sell off too, there was a few people who had dibs on it (if I ever sold it) after being in or driving the car so I'm not sure which combination you are referring to as there are few people here running GT35Rs or bigger with stock engines.

ultimately it is all about how much airflow the turbo makes at each rpm level and therefore how much torque/power at that point.

The 0.82 has a nice linear delivery.

100% agreed.

In practical terms I'd doubt if either a GTX3071 or the "old spec" GT3076R 56T fitted with the 0.82A/R turbine housing would vary enough to notice in terms of spool, or top end airflow capability. There may be some slight difference in transient response feel (surely the lighter/smaller impeller spins up quicker into its speed range), but for me it's most likely a marketing driven release to pre-empt the EFR series release from BW.

And an RB25 with GT30 rear end that's producing 17-18psi around 37-3900rpm, and holding torque well up towards 6000rpm does feel quick and behave in a linear/predictable fashion. The difficult part is being honest enough with yourself to know whether you can access and use that sort of torque delivery or otherwise stick with a GT-RS type/size of delivery and response.

Hey Dale, how you doin' ?

Mick o,

I have the 3071 .82 rear housing with genuine 60mm turbine wheel. It hits full boost (gear dependent) at around 3,200rpm. But there is a whole lot more to it than that. It is already on the verge of wheelspin well before that in the 1st two gears. Wolverine, Lithium and Dale, like me, have had our cars for some time, and they are correct, the .82 housing brings power on in a controlable fashion. I am now at 268rwkws. Please dont think anything but the Garrett rear housing and 60mm turbine is any good. The limiting factor is the compressor. At 18.5lbs boost I'm at the limit of my power/torque production unless I go cams. But if I do that I just get all that boost but earlier.

Now, the GTX3071, it supposedly has more compressor left in it, I tend to agree. Lighter wheel, hmmmm, cant really see more than a bees dick in it. So maybe 10 more kws, same power curve. Gor for the old 3076 or if instant boost is required go the GTX3071. Either way you'll be better off than me and I'm happy. If you need a hand tuning, Call on any one of us. Please tell me you have PFC or better. Dump pipe is easy. Air filter to turbo no worries. Long term you'll be happier.

I really do appreciate hearing all your experiences with these turbos guys :thanks:

its been good to campare all your experiences with different turbo kits

since it seems that nobody has posted anything about how this actual garrett setup on an rb25 performs on the dyno and how it feels on the street has made me buy this turbo cos to me in theory it seems like id get more power with this turbo than the hks 2835 kai (which i originally purchased) and has made on other guys cars in here with only minor if any loses in response.

ill get all my facts and figures together and feel how it drives and share my experience with you guys hopefully in the next couple of weeks :worship:

Its gunna be interesting to see whos theory comes closest to how this turbo actually does perform (in the real world) since nobody has any personal experiences with this kit!:banana:

Thats prob too laggy for me plus is wheelspin gunna b an issue with more than 270kw on the street? Its great to have a large power figure but getting it to the ground is the other issue. Ive gotta kaaz 2 way and quite a good handling setup

Tao has accomplished 320rwkw from the SS2 which does not cause wheel spin in gears, between gears though, is a different story haha.

:thumbsup: Appreciate the offer mate ive actually been chatting with Jez from DVS tuning on helping me with the install and playing the AFR'S on the road a bit and get her running with the Z32 AFM and the bigger injectors( so hopefully i can COAX him over) haha!

your set up is making boost quick i couldnt imagine my Gtx making boost sooner than tha thot???

My car is running a nistune and i hope the gtx makes about the same power you have!

i would be interested in comparing the differences between our cars with the different kits too!:thumbsup:

Hey Dale, how you doin' ?

Mick o,

I have the 3071 .82 rear housing with genuine 60mm turbine wheel. It hits full boost (gear dependent) at around 3,200rpm. But there is a whole lot more to it than that. It is already on the verge of wheelspin well before that in the 1st two gears. Wolverine, Lithium and Dale, like me, have had our cars for some time, and they are correct, the .82 housing brings power on in a controlable fashion. I am now at 268rwkws. Please dont think anything but the Garrett rear housing and 60mm turbine is any good. The limiting factor is the compressor. At 18.5lbs boost I'm at the limit of my power/torque production unless I go cams. But if I do that I just get all that boost but earlier.

Now, the GTX3071, it supposedly has more compressor left in it, I tend to agree. Lighter wheel, hmmmm, cant really see more than a bees dick in it. So maybe 10 more kws, same power curve. Gor for the old 3076 or if instant boost is required go the GTX3071. Either way you'll be better off than me and I'm happy. If you need a hand tuning, Call on any one of us. Please tell me you have PFC or better. Dump pipe is easy. Air filter to turbo no worries. Long term you'll be happier.

Haha nice!:rolleyes: 320kw its a big juicey number but how long is a unopened rb25 gunna last with that kinda power? I have heard that the 250-270kw zone is the safe power limit? (so to speak)

Its a daily driver which I baby, never track and enjoy. It should last a while. Its hardest time is probably going to be on the dyno lol.

100% agreed.

In practical terms I'd doubt if either a GTX3071 or the "old spec" GT3076R 56T fitted with the 0.82A/R turbine housing would vary enough to notice in terms of spool, or top end airflow capability. There may be some slight difference in transient response feel (surely the lighter/smaller impeller spins up quicker into its speed range), but for me it's most likely a marketing driven release to pre-empt the EFR series release from BW.

And an RB25 with GT30 rear end that's producing 17-18psi around 37-3900rpm, and holding torque well up towards 6000rpm does feel quick and behave in a linear/predictable fashion. The difficult part is being honest enough with yourself to know whether you can access and use that sort of torque delivery or otherwise stick with a GT-RS type/size of delivery and response.

see heres a pic of mine old tech 3076 comp with the modified .64 skyline rear..

i can smash the pedal in any gear at anytime and it goes hard

296019.jpg

compared to stock

6june017.jpg

you can almost see by the size of it its going to choke..It is still very quick on the street with full boost 19psi around 3500 and the small housing does give great response it drops to about 17psi by 6500rpm though, as do most IG and once you get in the upper rev range over say 5500rpm it just isn't as exciting as it should be.

Its making around 240kw @ 19psi which is alot of boost for not much result, but it is an old tech compressor. A new GTX one would make more but not much, 260 maybe, tangles makes 250kw ,if i played around with cams and gears etc it might make more, but I'm not going to bother as its easier to just swap it completely..

its still good fun and very driveable on the street with stock like response. The bit of extra lag it does have helps stop it form stepping out or losing traction to early, so its actually quite well balanced in an unbalanced kind of way :wacko:

I was speaking to AVO and they said they still sell plenty of their housings so someone must like them..

They are not ideal though and you dont really save alot of money doing it.. so i wouldnt recomend it..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
    • A couple of notes about the TCM. Firstly, it is integrated into the valve body. If you need to replace the TCM for any reason you are following the procedure above The seppos say these fail all the time. I haven't seen or heard of one on here or locally, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Finally, Ecutek are now offering tuning for the 7 speed TCM. It is basically like ECU tuning in that you have to buy a license for the computer, and then known parameters can be reset. This is all very new and at the moment they are focussing on more aggressive gear holding in sports or sports+ mode, 2 gear launches for drag racing etc. It doesn't seem to affect shift speed like you can on some transmissions. Importantly for me, by having controllable shift points you can now raise the shift point as well as the ECU rev limit, together allowing it to rev a little higher when that is useful. In manual mode, my car shifts up automatically regardless of what I do which is good (because I don't have to worry about it) but bad (because I can't choose to rev a little higher when convenient).  TCMs can only be tuned from late 2016 onwards, and mine is apparently not one of those although the car build date was August 2016 (presumably a batch of ADM cars were done together, so this will probably be the situation for most ADM cars). No idea about JDM cars, and I'm looking into importing a later model valve body I can swap in. This is the top of my TCM A couple of numbers but no part number. Amayama can't find my specific car but it does say the following for Asia-RHD (interestingly, all out of stock....): So it looks like programable TCM are probably post September 2018 for "Asia RHD". When I read my part number out from Ecutek it was 31705-75X6D which did not match Amayama for my build date (Aug-2016)
×
×
  • Create New...