Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

basically, they use an Idle air valve, super rich mixtures and 0 deg ign advance

Idle valve lets enough air in to keep the fuel burning, super rich and super retarded means the exh valve is open when it ignites.

I thought I read somewhere about the missfiring.... that they didnt fire 1 cylinder out of 4 combustion cycles or something like that but cant find that info now only what your saying zebra.

Must have been dreaming that day lol.

but anyway, the only way I could see it working is having a Power FC pro with launch control (or another ecu that supports this) setting your launch control to a certain RPM and retarding the timing in those cells.... an RB will not push a turbo at idle

  • 2 weeks later...

I re-routed the wasegate lines on mine 2 months ago, with boost pressure helping the spring. The gtx is pushing 30psi in the midrange now, falling to 25, not bad considering the Turbosmart has a 1 bar spring. It was road tuned so I dont have a new graph but the power curve seems flat from 4k to 7.5k. Exhaust temps in the manifold are very low, I havent seen more than 700 degrees and that is on lean cruise.

Very happy with the Garrett and i'm amazed how quick it can spool to 30psi when I drop back a gear. Its absolutely silent too, great stealth setup.

I thought I read somewhere about the missfiring.... that they didnt fire 1 cylinder out of 4 combustion cycles or something like that but cant find that info now only what your saying zebra.

That sounds more like rotational idle

Used to help cool the engine off after a hard run

That sounds more like rotational idle

Used to help cool the engine off after a hard run

I dunno where I was reading about whatever it was hey, i thought it was why the rally cars sounded so rough when they anti lag on the start lol

No idea what I was actually reading then

Missed my spot last week to get my cars final tune but hoping the end of this week the tune will be finished and ill have a dynosheet for you guys to pull apart lol i connected my rocker cover breather into my suction line and i pulled the aac valve off and cleaned that but it still didnt help my little idling bug though it did seem to make it start quicker. When i pull up at a set of lights it sits a little high around the 1100rpm zone but sometimes as high as 1500rpm but after a few seconds it drops down to 900 and from time to time it hunts up and down from 1100-600 any ideas where i should look next? Or could that be to do with the tune now since i hooked that breather line up?

Any updates?

Missed my spot last week to get my cars final tune but hoping the end of this week the tune will be finished and ill have a dynosheet for you guys to pull apart lol i connected my rocker cover breather into my suction line and i pulled the aac valve off and cleaned that but it still didnt help my little idling bug though it did seem to make it start quicker. When i pull up at a set of lights it sits a little high around the 1100rpm zone but sometimes as high as 1500rpm but after a few seconds it drops down to 900 and from time to time it hunts up and down from 1100-600 any ideas where i should look next? Or could that be to do with the tune now since i hooked that breather line up?

A vacuum leak?

Did Jez manually check your idle? If not then disconnect the TPS and adjust the idle closer to the value set on the PFC.

basically, they use an Idle air valve, super rich mixtures and 0 deg ign advance

Idle valve lets enough air in to keep the fuel burning, super rich and super retarded means the exh valve is open when it ignites.

Try 30-40 degrees retard and a bit more fuel. Its the ignition event with the exhasut valve open that cause the turbo to spool. The idle valve is required to stop the engine rpm from dropping too much.

If you did nothing but retard the timing you would still get 95% of the benefit of anti lag - hence it is the most important variable.

If you did nothing but retard the timing you would still get 95% of the benefit of anti lag - hence it is the most important variable.

My cold start values were f**ked on my nistune, meant zero ignition advance, I could build ~1psi in idle at 2500rpm with about half throttle.

Would get massive compressor surge and 5psi+ trying to cruise at 60kph with a 250kw highflow.

Havent checked for vacuum leaks yet ill suss that out tomorrow arvo hopefully. yavus did tune it but we had this idle issue so i been tryin to fix it but not much free time atm :( took it for a run today and it was nearly stalling and idling bit rough worse than its ever been it runs great everywhere except for idle :@

A vacuum leak?

Did Jez manually check your idle? If not then disconnect the TPS and adjust the idle closer to the value set on the PFC.

Havent checked for vacuum leaks yet ill suss that out tomorrow arvo hopefully. yavus did tune it but we had this idle issue so i been tryin to fix it but not much free time atm :( took it for a run today and it was nearly stalling and idling bit rough worse than its ever been it runs great everywhere except for idle :@

I will have been smoked at Unigroup prior to the tune so leaks should have been found but I would inspect all the vacuum hoses very carefully anyway.

Got my car back yesterday unfortunately i didnt get a dyno sheet because ive got a boost control issue that i need to sort out and ive also got an idling issue :rant: so the tune isnt finished yet

Yuvaz said i made 270kw @ 20psi which was a lil disappointing number wise BUT it feels unreal pulls like a freight train is very responsive and the sound is amazing!

Does anybody know where i could get my hands on some English instructions on how to setup a HKS EVC boost controller?

http://www.xspeed.com.au/manuals.php

I will second that scotty :thumbsup: my garrett is very quiet it whistles a little bit down low and thats the only trace of it really i believe it is actually much quieter than the stock turbo :whistling:

I also got a shock when i used bout 60% throttle and my gauge was at bout 18psi then i stepped on the noise pedal to bout 90% throttle and the gauge went up to near 27psi almost instantly! :worship:

I re-routed the wasegate lines on mine 2 months ago, with boost pressure helping the spring. The gtx is pushing 30psi in the midrange now, falling to 25, not bad considering the Turbosmart has a 1 bar spring. It was road tuned so I dont have a new graph but the power curve seems flat from 4k to 7.5k. Exhaust temps in the manifold are very low, I havent seen more than 700 degrees and that is on lean cruise.

Very happy with the Garrett and i'm amazed how quick it can spool to 30psi when I drop back a gear. Its absolutely silent too, great stealth setup.

Pulled my pcv valve out today cleaned it up it works fine but the rubber grommet on the other hand was stuffed when i pulled it out it broke in half :domokun: Nissan want $50 for a new 1!

Getting a new rubber tomorrow but used a rubber hose that i had and dodged it up and it didnt seem to play up as much so fingers crossed its sweet when i put the new rubber in :w00t:

Im getting frustrated cant get my tune done till next thursday now :rant:

We found a few things this arvo that need attention.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not really, but the heater box is pretty simple mechanically....if the door is one way the air bypasses the heater core and if it is the other way it goes through it for warm air.  If you are sure the actuator you moved manually is for the heater mix (there would also be one for output air direction) then I'd take the heater box out and see what is happening (you'll have to regass and re-coolant the systems afterwards) BTW pp724 onwards from the GTR workshop manual cover the system in good detail, it is probably worth checking. I think the IAT sensor might be a problem electrically for getting cold (if you got 24 error code not -24 it thinks the incoming air is -50c) and it covers how to test the sensor (although most likely it is either not plugged in or a wire is damaged)
    • Use the GKTech subframe bush and bring your subframe 10mm closer to the chassis. You'll need to fix an exhaust hanger to suit. One of the best mods I've done.
    • You'd really have to pull it apart further to know, it least you can be confident that the one heading to the back is not connected any more. There was once a ground on the shifter seal mount too, your head unit issue could be that simple
    • Perfect, I'll get to it this winter then at the same time as I weld on my anti squat kit. 
    • Alright so my 32 only has one temperature no matter what degree you set it to. I’ve tried disconnecting the servo motor arm and moving it either direction and got no change. I’ve fixed the leak in my AC and re charged it and with it on and clutch engaged it still blows hot even though the low pressure pipe going to the firewall is ice cold. Both heater core hoses are hot while running as well. Diagnostic code showed 24 for intake air temperature sensor. Anybody got any ideas?
×
×
  • Create New...