Which Turbo Kit?

[Reflector]

Hi all,

Just wanting to get some personal/first hand opinions on which of these two kits I'd be better off with for my R33 GTS-T Series II

GT3582R

http://www.ebay.com....=item2a111c6483

Or

GT3076

http://www.ebay.com....=item2ea92a724f

(and before anyone mentions it) I'm aware slight modifications and a water/oil kit is required. I'm also preparing to do more upgrades as time goes by and at first I'm not expecting to be reaching the full potential of these turbos.

Basically, I'm looking at these two kits to replace my stock turbo and exhaust manifold. I'm under the assumption with a little modification I'll be able to fit either of these kits on and still running my other stock components if I don't push the boost up and overload my current set up. (car is currently making 215rwkw on stock)

What I'd like to know is which set up is better? Both are the same amount of $$ however the performance for the GT3582R is rated at 550hp and the GT3076 is 480hp. My future plans involve a target aimed at 300+rwkw so I think both kits would be capable of achieving that power down the track. What's better IN YOUR OPINION?

Many thanks in advanced.

Edited September 20, 2011 by Reflector

[SimonR32]

A real GT3076R is the best way to go with a decent manifold and gate...

What you posted seems to be a average manifold with an average gate with the incorrect GT3076R

What is your budget for turbo, manifold and gate?

[89CAL]

If you only want 300rwkw, then there's no question, go for the 3076.

Or the 3582 if you like lag or want to push more power later on. Id suggest reading the dyno thread for some ideas

3582 is usually used for a higher power goal then 300rwkw, and most of the time (as far as I know) on an engine with at least a little bit of strengthening mods done

EDIT: haven't looked at the links, but as above post, be careful of eBay turbo kits.

Edited September 20, 2011 by 89CAL

[Reflector]

My budget isn't exactly limited in the sense that I would go for crap over quality. My initial thoughts were that these kits stated Garrett turbos that were ball bearing and not the thrust style (being what the cheap ones are made with). I'd be inclined to spend around $2500 including the wastegate, turbo and exhaust manifold, however, as stated, I wouldn't go for some cheaper if it was only a couple of hundred in the difference. I'm pretty confident in saying that between 300-350rwkw is a sensible power figure for a tough streeter so that's what I'd be aiming for.

Well aware of the 'quality' of some eBay stockest, but for reference, who would you recommend (if any) for a turbo, manifold and wastegate set up? Even if individual sellers.

[gotRICE?]

My budget isn't exactly limited in the sense that I would go for crap over quality. My initial thoughts were that these kits stated Garrett turbos that were ball bearing and not the thrust style (being what the cheap ones are made with). I'd be inclined to spend around $2500 including the wastegate, turbo and exhaust manifold, however, as stated, I wouldn't go for some cheaper if it was only a couple of hundred in the difference. I'm pretty confident in saying that between 300-350rwkw is a sensible power figure for a tough streeter so that's what I'd be aiming for.

Well aware of the 'quality' of some eBay stockest, but for reference, who would you recommend (if any) for a turbo, manifold and wastegate set up? Even if individual sellers.

If you want quality, AFAIK youll need to spend most of that on the manifold alone.

And if your goal is only around the 300rwkw mark, dont bother with externally gated. And stick to the stock manifold. Will save you a shit ton of money.

[Reflector]

If you want quality, AFAIK youll need to spend most of that on the manifold alone.

And if your goal is only around the 300rwkw mark, dont bother with externally gated. And stick to the stock manifold. Will save you a shit ton of money.

$2500 on a manifold? Don't think so. I've seen them priced up to $1000 and through rocket industries I can get a performance ensure one for around $600-$700. There's no way keeping a stock manifold would be better flow and performance than an upgraded and equal pipe sized manifold. I have considered internally wastegated but what is the difference? One less component? Are the wastegate springs still interchangeable?

[Tengoku Imports]

I can help you get the turbo and tial wastegate (just email or pm us!) As stated above, I wouldn't bother with changing manifold unless you were going something made of steampipe, ie 6Boost, powertune, kelway or even full-race. They go for around 1k+ for those manifolds.

Performance gains on those other manifolds are arguably minimal and tend to crack (stainless steel).

With wastegates, yes you can change the springs in them if you wanted. External wastegate is ideal for larger turbos, ie GT3076, GT35R. If you are running larger boost you go the smaller gate, and small boost you go the larger gate!

[TiTAN]

stock exhaust manifold + spacer plate + internal wastegate 3076 with the 0.5 AR compressor not the 0.6 AR + high pressure large can actuator.

[R31Nismoid]

A real GT3076R is the best way to go with a decent manifold and gate...

What you posted seems to be a average manifold with an average gate with the incorrect GT3076R

What is your budget for turbo, manifold and gate?

+1

Getting a proper GT3076 is the most important part!

[SargeRX8]

I think the 3582R is too big for a 2.5L motor. I had one and I sold it. Some people run them and make crazy power with them but you need to run in excess of 24psi through the motor. The question is if your motor is unopened, you probably wouldn't want to push a 3582R through it.

I then got a 3071, has slightly better response than the 76 but also makes nice power(should get 280rwkw fairly easily). I then ditched the 3071 because to make the garret fit needs more money and more work and to run it at its peak needs a whole new setup(probably best with a new mani, external gate setup). I ended up going with a hypergear which has brilliant response, delivers more torque than the garret 3071 and also more power for the same boost. This ant it also bolts straight onto my existing bellmouth dump, no spacers etc, no external gate, stock manifold is fine.

Consider the hypergear turbo. My full low boost comes on at about 3400rpm and high boost just a tad before 3600rpm. If you had a 3582 expect to wait 4krpm. Believe me when I tell you, you do NOT like the feeling of turbo lag. There have been the times where even this turbo feels laggy. I try to get into traffic, see a car coming from behind, floor it in 2nd and it really does feel like you are waiting forever before it comes on haha.

[Guilt-Toy]

china manifolds are not too bad these days.. I have had one on my car for the last 4 years, its only been off 4 times for some fixing

[Reflector]

Well I think I'll be doing a few PM's and emails to accompany my search.

Few more questions:

1. What is the physical capability of max power the GT3076R can make? Although it says 480hp on that PARTICULAR page, I've stumbled on a few different power ratings.

2. What brand wastegate would people recommend?

3. Is it worth looking into the GTX range of Garrett?

[Dale FZ1]

+1

Getting a proper GT3076 is the most important part!

+2

The unit you're looking at can be correctly referred to as a 3076. You really want the one that also goes under the name of 3037. Identifiable by a 6 (twin) bladed compressor and the 0.6 comp ported shroud cover. Depending on trim it will flow more air (more power capacity) but crucially it is more efficient at higher turbocharger speeds.

As pictured, the unit you've looked at is a 7 (twin) bladed compressor, running in a 0.7 comp cover. It can pump a decent whack of air but lacks the efficiency and is not the unit you'd really want.

The GTX3071 may be worth a look if you're stuck on Garrett product and want something of roughly equal capacity.

Be aware that running this setup on low boost because you haven't spent on upgrading the other parts will lead to general dissatisfaction - it won't respond the way your current stock (yes?) turbo does down low. Get the money together for ECU, pump, injectors, clutch, tyres etc. 350kW for the street will be difficult to use effectively at the best of times. Anywhere around 280+ is heaps, is easier to achieve, and gives you potentially longer engine life.

Bang for buck I would consider a Kamak/Kinugawa setup with external gate as a real and viable alternative to what you're proposing. There is a long thread on them which should help lots.

[Cowboy1600]

Isn't Stao working on what is going to be essentially the most perfect turbo for an unopened RB25 with ~300kw goal?

EDIT: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/page__view__findpost__p__5988007

Edited September 20, 2011 by Cowboy1600

[R31Nismoid]

Wouldn't say perfect... The GCG comes on sooner, & wont nose over in upper RPM either.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=359348

Imagine if it was running 22psi like the example you linked. The midrange would be very tasty with an extra 6psi.

The GCG item has always been a great choice for 250-270rwkw out of a R34 hi-flow (OP6), best of all it looks 100% factory and you dont need gut loads of boost to make the power either.

[GeorgesR34]

every thing on Created dyno comes on sooner thou. won't get same reading any where else. I wouldn't count on that.

Mate had a HG op6 hf after selling his gcg op6, HG's had a big chunk of extra mid range while gcg made 3 extra kws up top.

[Room42]

With a 6boost manifold, 50mm turbosmart wastegate and a garrett gt3582r it has set me back $3300. Oil and water kit was $80 and I still haven't got a dump (quoted $150 to $300) or cooler piping (at least another $100) or screamer pipe. There is already around $5000 of supporting mods to get it working right and the motor hasn't been opened yet. If you are set on a genuine garrett you will have to double or triple your budget to get a 'proper' setup that includes injectors, computer, tune, fuel pump, intercooler and exhaust to run a big turbo. And that is a minimum just to run it. You'll need some very decent tyres/wheels to hold the grip and a beasty clutch to hold the power too. A stock clutch will die out the arse and 225 tyres wont last as I'm sure you already know. For the budget it sounds like Hypergear will be the go for you. Well priced, easy to install and makes good power.

[SargeRX8]

With a 6boost manifold, 50mm turbosmart wastegate and a garrett gt3582r it has set me back $3300. Oil and water kit was $80 and I still haven't got a dump (quoted $150 to $300) or cooler piping (at least another $100) or screamer pipe. There is already around $5000 of supporting mods to get it working right and the motor hasn't been opened yet. If you are set on a genuine garrett you will have to double or triple your budget to get a 'proper' setup that includes injectors, computer, tune, fuel pump, intercooler and exhaust to run a big turbo. And that is a minimum just to run it. You'll need some very decent tyres/wheels to hold the grip and a beasty clutch to hold the power too. A stock clutch will die out the arse and 225 tyres wont last as I'm sure you already know. For the budget it sounds like Hypergear will be the go for you. Well priced, easy to install and makes good power.

255's won't hold on my hyper gear. But everything you said is the reason I ditched garret.

[TiTAN]

255's won't hold on my hyper gear. But everything you said is the reason I ditched garret.

its all in the boost ramp, 235's hold with my gt35.

[dori34]

its all in the boost ramp, 235's hold with my gt35.

really?

either your have super extremely sticky tyres or your turbo must be very lazy coming on boost lol