Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

20 hours ago, Piggaz said:

Doesn't the EVO ECU only do a "duel fuel" (two maps only) and not a "flex tune"?

dual not duel lol

does full flex, mafless, and launch control from E8 onwards.. some say full flex "may" work on E7 ECUs.

btw... you could experiment yourself :)

Also... you could use the Nistune board to convert the signal from the flex sensor to 0-5v for your stock ECU
Also... I can supply you the Nistune board to convert the signal lol

OR.. you could buy a Zeitronix gauge/sensor kit and use the 0-5v output and connect it to:

Evo 8 4-plug ECU: pin 42
Evo 8 3-plug ECU: pin 64

 

:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You beat me to it, I was going to say this -  And this -  Sounds like things are coming along pretty well and your learning heaps along the way. 
    • It's the same ABS unit from the old shell.  It was all just lifted and shifted.  I am looking at the BMW MK60 ABS unit as a budget upgrade, as I'm not keen on handing over 15k for a Bosch unit.  
    • Bear in mind RBs tend to be pretty terrible for fuel economy and it heavily depends on driving style. In my experience with a heavy-ass turbo Stagea the 10l/100km is really just ideal conditions highway driving. Start-stop in the city is killer and it ends up being 16-19l/100km easily. I keep track of it every time I get fuel and it is never pretty. There are a few topics in the forums where people share their fuel economy if you want to get some ideas of what it can be like. I don't think it is worth that much to compare though because it depends so much on the driving.
    • R32 HICAS, so long as the CU is not itself faulty, is easy to keep working enough for the PS. Just unplug the smaller of the two loom plugs, on the CU, like I have already said about 4000 times on this forum. This works with all the stock hardware, or with a lock bar, or with a complete removal. I know, because I have done all of them. OK, actually, I never put a lock bar on because why would you put a lock bar on when you can get rid of the whole lot, including the stupid tie rod ends?
    • Join the NorCal facebook group btw, but if you can confirm it is HICAS I would install a lock bar and do the work to keep the HICAS control unit happy despite the hardware not functioning. The HICAS control unit is also responsible for speed sensitive power steering so if it's unhappy you'll get failsafe/heavy power steering. A standalone can control that power steering solenoid valve but sometimes it's just easier to stick with the factory setup. Tomei makes a little electronic module that you can install to fool the control unit. I would probably go through the effort to not use a scotch-lok and build a harness so I don't have to chop up the OEM harness. Where you could source those connectors and pins I wouldn't know at the moment though.
×
×
  • Create New...