Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

how do u stop it mid wobble.

Hang on for dear life until it stops...or...if you have the skill...before it gets really bad you can put on the throttle to try and take weight off the front wheel. Ideally try and lift the front wheel off the ground a touch.

Hang on for dear life until it stops...or...if you have the skill...before it gets really bad you can put on the throttle to try and take weight off the front wheel. Ideally try and lift the front wheel off the ground a touch.

That's pretty scary lol

Hang on for dear life until it stops...or...if you have the skill...before it gets really bad you can put on the throttle to try and take weight off the front wheel. Ideally try and lift the front wheel off the ground a touch.

By watching the professionals being thrown around like rag dolls when the bike wobbles, think I'll stick to my boat... too craaazzyyy for me!

Track time now brah

Hopefully towards the last quarter of the year. :thumbsup:

lol princess hwy is for the weak.

Actually never been...

Good.

Hey Aaron your GOR Map link is to a BP in Western Australia...

Either change it to the correct BP or increase the estimated cruise time to a week.

By watching the professionals being thrown around like rag dolls when the bike wobbles, think I'll stick to my boat... too craaazzyyy for me!

Haha but that rarely ever happens on the street. Gotta remember the pros are riding their bikes on the limits and they aren't the most user friendly machines. Bit like an F1 car...most people would spin out on the first corner pushing it hard!

Haha but that rarely ever happens on the street. Gotta remember the pros are riding their bikes on the limits and they aren't the most user friendly machines. Bit like an F1 car...most people would spin out on the first corner pushing it hard!

Dammit birds! Been convincing myself to stay away from bikes for a very long time now and you're not helping, and now that you've got a bike for sale.... :unsure:

Dammit birds! Been convincing myself to stay away from bikes for a very long time now and you're not helping, and now that you've got a bike for sale.... :unsure:

Go get your Ls anyway...don't have to buy a bike.

But I know you will.

Getting my car re-tuned next month, just wondering what sort of things will be worth getting checked-out before hitting the dyno?

ie. injector flow test, inspeact turbo? hell i dunno

make sure you have a stanceworks sticker, a catback exhaust and pod filter with no other engine mods, a stickerbombed quaterppanel, dick-tight jeans, $300 haircut, a vintage t shirt, airbag suspension and lay frame on the dyno brah.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...