Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

SO car was written off but not put o the register..seems strange.

Repairable Write off...

Cheaper for just car insurance to do a write off payout than fix it (properly).

Thus why this sale is clearly dodgy, there won't be a lot of change from $9,000 o.n.o. if it was fixed properly.

SO car was written off but not put o the register..seems strange.

I think it doesn't have to be on the register if the car's over 15 year old?

That could explain why it isn't on the register...

WOOOOOOTTTTT MY CAR IS READY!

Time to go to the panel beaters and pick it up... Need to get there in under 50 minutes or the place will be shut... Waiting on a taxi to arrive now *impatient*

I've already called him saying I'm interested... Waiting on a call back... Will go and see it on my way home if I can.

Called him again just before... I'm going to go see it tomorrow... with Matt...

Shall record the encounter for the wasteland lulz

WOOOOOOTTTTT MY CAR IS READY!

Time to go to the panel beaters and pick it up... Need to get there in under 50 minutes or the place will be shut... Waiting on a taxi to arrive now *impatient*

So... my car had a camry reverse into the middle of the passenger door.

It went into the AAMI assessment center on Tuesday Morning last week (19th)

It was getting a new door, and bring resprayed at a place Monash Car Center on Princess Hwy

I get the phone call that it ready to come pick up tonight.

Went there to go pick it up and it all looked good. the paint colors matched and all was well.

Car was locked, so couldn't open the door.

Accepted the car, drove it home and on the way I noticed a "few" issues.

They've swapped the inner door panel, speakers, glass, etc into the new door. The tint on the glass is scratched quite badly and is peeling (like inch long sections peeling off)

The power mirror does not function at all.

The power window functions intermittently, I'm thinking a wiring connection issue.

The panel gaps are different from the top to the bottom of the door, it varies by more than 2mm from top to bottom.

Letting the door swing shut by itself, it stops with 10cm to go.

Once fully closed, the top of the window looks to be about 1cm lower than it should be, so it doesn't go into the slot where it should go, instead it hits the bottom of the fat rubber bit.

Honestly, how the f**k can a place f**k it up so much... *sigh*

Gonna call JCI tomorrow and rip a new arsehole out of this joint.

2mm panel gap on a 15~ year old car...uhoh lol

Who could even notice 2mm other stuff sounds fair enough though. Panel beaters would have given zero fks they are useless pricks

Edited by alr33x
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
    • Is this a brand new LSD? if so, have you followed any break/bed in procedure for it? Usually involves heaps of figure 8 patterns, a fluid flush.
×
×
  • Create New...