Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The more exxy one has solid state hard drives, which are a lot faster to load shit than mechanical/normal hard drives.

I have a 128gb one in my desktop along with 2 x 1TB "normal" hard drives for media storage. You typically install the operating system and most frequently used apps/games on the solid state for faster access. Windows loads about 5-10 seconds faster etc.

SSDs also have a finite number of writes, so it's best to put things like apps on them that don't change and your data on the standard drive. But if you don't have a standard drive then it doesn't matter...

I went from an 8 year old Dell laptop to my current PC - my mind was always going to be blown with or without SSDs lol. But now that I have one, there's no going back...

I don't think it's worth $400 more for that upgrade. I only got one cause they are $130 in a desktop. You lose 512gb of space by not going for the other one, so for me it'd probably be a question of how much space I needed. Not that you can't get external hard drives but fk messing around with that.

SSD's die all the time, especially when used as an OS boot drive.

Honestly, unless you are using a computer in the field and you actually -needs- the extra few seconds ..... WTF even bother. Buy 100,000,000,999 TB's of SATA storage instead :S

Stock Availability:

  • OnlineUnavailable
  • SunshineCall For Stock
  • ClaytonCall For Stock
  • HawthornCall For Stock
  • ElsternwickCall For Stock
  • FrankstonCall For Stock
  • BundooraCall For Stock
  • GeelongCall For Stock
  • BendigoCall For Stock

looks to be sold out anyway

SSD's die all the time, especially when used as an OS boot drive.

Honestly, unless you are using a computer in the field and you actually -needs- the extra few seconds ..... WTF even bother. Buy 100,000,000,999 TB's of SATA storage instead :S

Not true. HDD's actually have a higher failure rate than SSD's. I've also experienced this myself, never had to return an SSD but I've had multiple HDD's fail in the past.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...