Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Most learned VWL, what's the go with allowing car registration to expire and then re-registering? Specifically wondering if there's any costs / need for RWC? I vaguely recall something about 3 months you can "re-reg" as opposed to "new-reg"... but assuming there is no way around the RWC etc. And if there's any additional re-reg costs... :S

All hard drive brands have their failures. I've got a faulty Seagate in mine, just cbf taking it out.

Didn't we swap that one over or remove it or something? can't remember now :(

I had an early model SSD die on me with a bunch of corrupted write errors, kept hosing my windows install... Friend of mine who built his PC at the same time had the exact same problem so we RMA'd them both... Serial numbers were 3 apart.

SSD Failures vs HDD Failures though, SSD's are awesome for reliability because of no moving parts... The Limited Writes isn't really an issue for home use unless you're using the first SSD's ever released.

^ This SSD SHIT on HDDs for reliability. ESPECIALLY on a laptop because its often moving places, placed down on desk etc.

Dezz do yourself a favour and make sure you get an SSD, heaps better than a normal HDD.

In terms of computer shops checked out scorptec? good service with decent prices.

your 1 year of rego starts on the day the rego expires, should you wish to rereg.

if you wait 2 months to re-reg, you'll have 10months of valid rego left, and still pay that 700ish.

This sounds a bit ridiculous. Having to pay registration for the months where it's unregistered = lolwut. Dat VicRoads cash grab.

when rego expires then you cannot drive car anymore.

if you pay it within 3 months then car rego again and all good.

after 3 months removed from system and you have to get full RWC and re-register the car

This is how I assumed it'll be. So if it's within 3 months, you DON'T need to grab an RWC, and just need to re-register the car? No extra fees? HOWEVER, then with regards to what Alvin said, you will be paying registration for 12 months starting from the ''initial" date it expired... as opposed to paying registration for 12 months starting from the date of re-registration ?

For example, lettuce say that registration expires 01 January 2015.

Scenario 1:

> Cannot drive vehicle as reg is expired

> As long as you "re-register" vehicle by 01 April 2015, you do not need RWC

> However, registration for "12 months" will only last until 01 January 2016

Scenario 2:

> Cannot drive vehicle as reg is expired

> Brand "new" registration required if registering vehicle AFTER 01 April 2015; RWC needed

> For argument's sake, say you do this registration on 02 April 2015

> Registration for "12 months" means this will be valid until 02 April 2016

These are the two possible alternatives?

This sounds a bit ridiculous. Having to pay registration for the months where it's unregistered = lolwut. Dat VicRoads cash grab.

This is how I assumed it'll be. So if it's within 3 months, you DON'T need to grab an RWC, and just need to re-register the car? No extra fees? HOWEVER, then with regards to what Alvin said, you will be paying registration for 12 months starting from the ''initial" date it expired... as opposed to paying registration for 12 months starting from the date of re-registration ?

For example, lettuce say that registration expires 01 January 2015.

Scenario 1:

> Cannot drive vehicle as reg is expired

> As long as you "re-register" vehicle by 01 April 2015, you do not need RWC

> However, registration for "12 months" will only last until 01 January 2016

Scenario 2:

> Cannot drive vehicle as reg is expired

> Brand "new" registration required if registering vehicle AFTER 01 April 2015; RWC needed

> For argument's sake, say you do this registration on 02 April 2015

> Registration for "12 months" means this will be valid until 02 April 2016

These are the two possible alternatives?

senario 1

I've done it with the mustang now and then as it been off raod for 4 years.

Haven't looked at the links yet, but sometimes the CPUs can be slightly different models, screen size might be the same say 15" but different resolutions (higher resolution = better / clearer) and some may only have on board graphics, others might have an additional card. (nvidia or ati)

edit: checked your links quickly, aren't they all the R750JV-T4207H?

Edited by UNR33L

Ishan come to me when you've (stupidly) paid rego on a car that doesn't exist for 5 years just to avoid getting a RWC again...

Didn't we swap that one over or remove it or something? can't remember now :(

Nah we took out one and gave it to you cause I was feeling charitable with my three hard drives. Then one of the ones we left in there carked it lol

Haven't looked at the links yet, but sometimes the CPUs can be slightly different models, screen size might be the same say 15" but different resolutions (higher resolution = better / clearer) and some may only have on board graphics, others might have an additional card. (nvidia or ati)

All have the same CPU spec listed (Intel® Core™ i7-4700HQ Processor (6M Cache, up to 3.40 GHz) / Leap motion)

All screens and resolutions the same except the JB one being 15.6" vs 17.3" for the others... and all have the same Nvidia 4gb graphics card

senario 1

I've done it with the mustang now and then as it been off raod for 4 years.

Interesting.

Ishan come to me when you've (stupidly) paid rego on a car that doesn't exist for 5 years just to avoid getting a RWC again...

Haha wut. It's not that RWC is a huge deal, as-is should pass no problems at all as it did some months ago. Just the registration timing atm is not ideal for me - as if it were delayed say a month~ish, I can have dat dere concession reg pricing. But if there's fees such as just getting a RWC etc, gotta weigh up whether that time + money is worth the saving (not to mention the fact I couldn't drive it for x amount of time).

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh, also, forgot to add these photos I believe.
    • Thought i'd update on this. I was able to get in contact with Craig Lieberman and later on Darryl Alison (owner of Kaizo Industries). Darryl was able to help me verify that my car was in fact one of theirs and is helping me find more info on mine !
    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
×
×
  • Create New...