Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

my boost gauge doesn't show any boost spike, goes to 10psi but settles down to 9psi.
During the misfiring revving pass 4k rpm, it makes a constant popping from my rear muffler from what I can tell.

I don't even know, I've been sitting here looking for excuses not to let it go...

evos are crappy little girls cars....is that reason enough...need another, your gfs car is cooler (almost) :P

Ed* oh wait you said excuses NOT to let it go...sorry I got nuthink..

1.1 is a bit big for turbo applications I thought. 0.8 is more common, stronger arc.

1.1 is standard for the rb25 but .8 is the norm for anything modded...

I just go to bursons and ask for rb20 plugs usually..they are the bpr6 blahdy blah whatever they are the ones you want :yes:

Still got it, need a normal one for roardworthy

Good for pho Sunday morning or lunch

Could even do Yum Cha

I bon bo hue

I'll let Alvin pick

my fav bun bo hue is in st albans, i dont think you guys want to drive that far right?

though yum cha @ gold leaf springy/burwood sounds good oto.

did you seriously just read all that crap we wrote to Pat about plug gaps THEN put in 1.1's already put them in? lol

take out plugs and gap to 0.8

missfire will mysteriously vanish

did you seriously just read all that crap we wrote to Pat about plug gaps THEN put in 1.1's already put them in? lol

take out plugs and gap to 0.8

missfire will mysteriously vanish

Lol as far as I'm aware, plugs wear by creating a larger gap. As the 1.1's wear they grow to 1.2+

This is when you start having misfires

It you start at 0,8 they will wear down to 0.9, 1.0

Drop to 0.8 if misfiring. Although I'm getting away with 1.1's at 220kw :)

Lol as far as I'm aware, plugs wear by creating a larger gap. As the 1.1's wear they grow to 1.2+

This is when you start having misfires

It you start at 0,8 they will wear down to 0.9, 1.0

Drop to 0.8 if misfiring. Although I'm getting away with 1.1's at 220kw :)

I'm only running fmic and exhaust, boost sitting on 9psi after those mods.

Thought I'll be alright with 1.1mm since not running much power, shall re-gap to 0.8mm and perhaps coilpacks.

Misfiring better go away before deca!

 

Drop to 0.8 if misfiring. Although I'm getting away with 1.1's at 220kw :)

 

Misfiring isn't only from increased pressure in the cylinder, it is caused by excessive amounts of fuel also. If they are running good AFR's in the top end and cylinder pressure is under control they should be able to run 1.1mm just fine, if not the coil packs may be flogged.

You are right, plugs do wear slowly. If they are wearing fast you may be overheating them, perhaps try a BPR7.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...