Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all.

New to the forums here but been researching skylines and know a fair bit about them. Just having a few thoughts about the engines themselves, I know everyone would recommend against it but i have seen my friends sometimes hitting the rev limiter in second gear before changing it into third. Have spoken to them about it but havent come up with any conclusions as to how bad it could be for the car doing this.

Anyone willing to shed some light on this issue? Wanting to know how much damage it could do to their cars. I know it cant be good for their cars but not sure exactly how much damage it could be doing! One of theirs is a 33 with fmic, bigger injectors, pod filter w/cold air intake and an ebc. The other just has a fmic with a pod with intake?

Cheers in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381298-rb25-hitting-rev-limiter-street-use/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

one thing i thought would happen. Oil pump then leading to vast engine damage? I know they have their limiters set to a certain amount. But Im still confused as to how they can think it ill be fine. Their answers to me were that the cars can take it if they have a good cooling system and good oil pressure etc.

Sorta glad my 33's still in the shop off the road. It hardly gets much use. Ive got the track car to have my fun and let off some steam but they dont hence why they take their car to secluded places etc.

If your hitting it every now and then and not sitting on it for long its probably not going to break shit but constantly hitting it and just riding on it yeah one day youll probably start hearing your bearings lol.

It's not the problem of high revs, it's the problem of the hard fuel cut causing stress on the oil pump gears when they smash together.

As long as you aren't using something stupid as a Bee*R limiter which is guaranteed to destroy the oil pump, otherwise the odd trip to redline shouldn't hurt the engine unless you are holding it on redline.

Yeah their odd trip to limiter is probably couple times every night. One of my mates Jason doesnt sit on it for too long. Just lets it bounce for 5 seconds and then shifts into third. But my other friend loves to sit on it. Sounds like shit imo.

Edited by extreme33

I buckle as soon as I hear the first Wapapa let alone 5 seconds. This is the reason I have raised my rpm to 7300. I can still push to 7000 and not worry about hitting the limiter. My turbo didn't fall off. That said I have seen 7500rpm an odd amount of times... Once.

Excessive use of limiter will eventually break an oil pump.

Hard cut does do damage to bearings and could also pay a part in rod bolt failure too.

Hit limiter also causes engine knock, which can lead to broken ring lands, pitting in the combustion chamber and on the piston.

However, a lot of drifters sit on the limiter all day and i personally havn't heard of someone breaking an oil pump because of it.

Oil pump is definitely the weakest link though. Having a short nose crank, stock oil pump, old worn harmonic balancer and hitting limiter all the time. The odds are really against you.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
×
×
  • Create New...