Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all.

New to the forums here but been researching skylines and know a fair bit about them. Just having a few thoughts about the engines themselves, I know everyone would recommend against it but i have seen my friends sometimes hitting the rev limiter in second gear before changing it into third. Have spoken to them about it but havent come up with any conclusions as to how bad it could be for the car doing this.

Anyone willing to shed some light on this issue? Wanting to know how much damage it could do to their cars. I know it cant be good for their cars but not sure exactly how much damage it could be doing! One of theirs is a 33 with fmic, bigger injectors, pod filter w/cold air intake and an ebc. The other just has a fmic with a pod with intake?

Cheers in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381298-rb25-hitting-rev-limiter-street-use/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

one thing i thought would happen. Oil pump then leading to vast engine damage? I know they have their limiters set to a certain amount. But Im still confused as to how they can think it ill be fine. Their answers to me were that the cars can take it if they have a good cooling system and good oil pressure etc.

Sorta glad my 33's still in the shop off the road. It hardly gets much use. Ive got the track car to have my fun and let off some steam but they dont hence why they take their car to secluded places etc.

If your hitting it every now and then and not sitting on it for long its probably not going to break shit but constantly hitting it and just riding on it yeah one day youll probably start hearing your bearings lol.

It's not the problem of high revs, it's the problem of the hard fuel cut causing stress on the oil pump gears when they smash together.

As long as you aren't using something stupid as a Bee*R limiter which is guaranteed to destroy the oil pump, otherwise the odd trip to redline shouldn't hurt the engine unless you are holding it on redline.

Yeah their odd trip to limiter is probably couple times every night. One of my mates Jason doesnt sit on it for too long. Just lets it bounce for 5 seconds and then shifts into third. But my other friend loves to sit on it. Sounds like shit imo.

Edited by extreme33

I buckle as soon as I hear the first Wapapa let alone 5 seconds. This is the reason I have raised my rpm to 7300. I can still push to 7000 and not worry about hitting the limiter. My turbo didn't fall off. That said I have seen 7500rpm an odd amount of times... Once.

Excessive use of limiter will eventually break an oil pump.

Hard cut does do damage to bearings and could also pay a part in rod bolt failure too.

Hit limiter also causes engine knock, which can lead to broken ring lands, pitting in the combustion chamber and on the piston.

However, a lot of drifters sit on the limiter all day and i personally havn't heard of someone breaking an oil pump because of it.

Oil pump is definitely the weakest link though. Having a short nose crank, stock oil pump, old worn harmonic balancer and hitting limiter all the time. The odds are really against you.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
    • Could be correct. Meter might be that far out. Compare against a known 5 ohm 1% resistor.
    • @Murray_Calavera  If I were an expert I wouldn't be in here looking for assistance.  I am extremely computer literate, have above average understanding on how things should be working and how they should tie together.  If I need to go to a professional tuner so be it, but I'd much rather learn and do things myself even if it means looking for some guidance along the way and blowing up a few engines. @GTSBoy  I was hoping it would be as simple as a large vacuum leak somewhere but I'm unable to find anything, all lines seem to be well capped or going where they need to be, and when removed there is vacuum felt on the tube.  It would be odd for the Haltech built in MAP to be faulty, the GTT tune I imported had it enabled from the start, I incorrectly assumed it was reading a signal from the stock MAP, but that doesn't exist.  After running a vacuum hose to the ECU the signal doesn't change more than 0.2 in either direction.   I'll probably upload a video of my settings tomorrow, as it stands I'm able to daily drive, but getting stuttering when giving it gas from idle, so pulling away from lights is a slow process of revving it up and feathering the clutch until its moving, then it will accelerate fine.  It sounds like I need to get to the bottom of the manifold pressure issue, but the ignition timing section is most intimidating to me and will probably let a pro do that part.  Tomorrow I'll try a different vacuum line to T off of, with any luck I selected one that was already bypassed during the DBW swap.  (edit: I went out and did it right now, the line I had chosen did appear to have no vacuum on it, it used to go to the front of the intake, I've now completely blocked that one off at the bracket that holds several vacuum lines by the firewall.  I T'd into the vacuum line that goes from that bracket to the vacuum pump at the front of the car, but no change in the MAP readings).  Using the new vacuum line that has obvious vacuum on the hose, im still only getting readings between -6.0 and -5.2.  I'm wondering why the ECU was detecting -5.3 when nothing was connected to the MAP nipple and ECU MAP selected as the source. @feartherb26  I do have +T in the works but wanted to wait until Spring to start with that swap since this is my good winter AWD vehicle.  When removing the butterfly, did it leave a bunch of holes in the manifold that you needed to plug?  I thought about removing it but assumed it would be a mess.   I notice no difference when capping the vacuum line to it or letting it do its thing.  This whole thing has convinced me to just get a forward facing manifold when the time comes though.
    • Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.
×
×
  • Create New...