Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 886
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

It is a stagea, they are fat and thirsty. They fuel economy on the highway with good tuning is acceptable but around town 14-15L/100km is pretty typical with aftermarket turbos. Poor tuning and they a shitty on the highway too.

Comparing it to an R33 is a pointless exercise. My R33 makes more power uses less fuel even with hi-flowed injectors.

My injectors were fully cleaned and spray tested. But that doesn't mean that some dirt hasn't found it's way in since installation. With anyluck I should have my maps set off to jez next week so he can see if anything is strange.

It is a stagea, they are fat and thirsty. They fuel economy on the highway with good tuning is acceptable but around town 14-15L/100km is pretty typical with aftermarket turbos. Poor tuning and they a shitty on the highway too.

Comparing it to an R33 is a pointless exercise. My R33 makes more power uses less fuel even with hi-flowed injectors.

agreed..some stageas are up around 1900kg with a cold pack and double sunroofs and they are only 2.5L motor..not sure what people expect..lmao

that 33 owners are trying to compare fuel economy though..throw 3 or 4 100kg people in you car as passengers for a week and get back to me on your daily economy then....

cheers

darren

  • 2 weeks later...

A big thank you to hypergear for making sure I can't sell my car. 3 people have test driven my car and were unhappy with the turbo response and drivability/boost surge. All 3 have said it feels slower and less aggressive then a standard rb25.

A big thank you to hypergear for making sure I can't sell my car. 3 people have test driven my car and were unhappy with the turbo response and drivability/boost surge. All 3 have said it feels slower and less aggressive then a standard rb25.

From this entire thread, you've come to this conclusion?

The turbo is by NO MEANS your problem. There's obviously many other issues with your setup, supporting items and the work that has been performed on your car not being carried out correctly. This is why you've needed a whole 43 pages worth of thread to sort issues with your car.

Im surprised you haven't been warned by now for previously rubbishing a company's product (proven to work!) and then blaming them again for not being able to sell your car.

Sort your issues, THEN sell the car.

Edited by R32Abuser

lol perhaps we also get blamed when your A/C don't work up or car radio stops functioning.

You are putting meanings on names and blame the turbocharger for totally isolated problems.

By reading your post there are many section of the car not sound, even with every one's advise, things are merely done.

I've been offering a free turbo swap to a popular model since last Oct on numerous occasions with what ever methods reasonable, there has always been reasons for not doing so. and there is nothing more I can do.

If there is a genuine believe of a part that is not functioning correctly, a normal person would organizes warranty or replacement with vendor. Nothing happens If you persist or reluctant doing so.

There is no physical reason out side of the turbo itself for it to surge, everything has been removed and checked over 10 times, no leaks, no restrictions, no loose connections just a complete inability for the turbo to do what I was told by stao it would do. If I knew how much trouble this turbo was going to cause i could have just purchased a garret or hks kit and saved alot of money and stuffing around. Am I wrong that I believe a product should do as the supplier says it will. Regardless if the surge, my turbo heat soaks at 16psi, how anyone can say they are running 18-20 psi without killing their motor has got me stumped.

Yeah and you expect me to pull more cash out of my ass to pay for a deposit on a turbo that I dont know to be any better plus I would need a new tune that might not be even better. So basically I could outlay $$$ to a tuner and then be stuck in the same boat that I'm in now. If there was a single thing wrong that any of the 12 people who have looked over my car could find I would understand my turbo not working.

Running rich blown black smoke and misfiring is not the definition of turbo surge.

You've already explained your self the reason for heat soak in your previous posts.

Deposit means you are getting that money back after receiving your current turbocharger, just a way giving your self convenience for not taking the car off road. You are experiencing problems I and others never experienced, if same problem persist on the new charger while others made positive gain then just confirms what ever issue you have has nothing to do with the turbocharger, regardless of the choice of the turbocharger. Then you need to sort out what ever problem there is and repair it before selling the car.

I have a OP6 high flowed turbocharger that produced result of below based from a customer's R34 sent in by the customer:

257rwkw.JPG

Numerous other customers are getting similar results based on this high flow profile.

Does that looks reasonable enough to you? If you wish to swap, please act now.

I would bet $100 if you put a garret or any other turbo on your car you will have identical problems.

+1

If you had gotten a garret, you would have been further out of pocket and in the same boat you are in now.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...