Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys was looking into putting an external gate on my car but not sure if it will make any diff at all? mods to the car are yellow jacket coil packs vg30 tubro fmic turbo smart dual boost controll what u guys think?> any idea what i need? without stating the obvious

Whats the use of splashing $$$$ for an external gate when you have an internal>>>>>and>>>>you intend upgrading your turbo anyway?

Wait until you upgrade your turbo and ECU and then do it all at the same time, then you will only have to pay for new dump and pipes once!

And absolutely no gains at all until your pushing up to 300rwkw. Then not so much a gain as better wastegate control. But there are ppl on here with internal gates that will swear that they have it all under control at over 300 - it just took them a while to finesse their setup.

In the future go 'what is my goal?' and then figure out what parts are needed to obtain that goal, don't do it backwards and go I want this part but I don't know why.

But... Racecar :(

external or internal is application specific. you could get the most epic internal gate turbo out and have zero use for an external gate or you could want to run a turbo that does not have a good internal housing available and will need to run an external gate.

putting it simply:

stock NO

35R YES

2835 pro S NO

3076 .63 YES

Kando T67 YES

Hypergear NO

Do some reading and you will see what I mean. Bare in mind that you cant necessarily search for 'external gate' and find the answer, you will need to read lots of results based threads to find out what ppl are doing with what turbos and what the effects are.

A good example of this is Simon S14 with a 3076R and .63 rear housing using an external gate, generally speaking a .63 is a terrible thing on a 3076 RB25 but Simon is one of the only ones running it as an external gate rather than internal. A good comparison in results to this is the lots and lots of people who can successfully pull off a .82 internal housing. That shows you not all things are equal and you need to know your turbo before try to pick its setup.

GL

^Hi-jacking thread*

I have a gt2835r on my rb20 r32 tracky and my internal gate is jamming on the dump pipe, I've had the dump pipe off about 10 f**king times shaving more n more out of the dump and it is still getting caught, I'm thinking of changing to a external setup just to avoid this issue. What are your guys thoughts? Unsure of rear housing size sorry.

Cheers- Trent

so you are going to run an internal gate setup and an external setup.

im sorry but that has got to take the cake as one of the dumbest things I have ever heard

are you running the HKS GT2835? and its HKS dump pipe?

seriously, get a new dump pipe

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It's sodium citrate, I misspoke earlier. It's a citrate buffer solution. And yes, depending on how thin the metal in the tank is this may or may not be a wise decision but if it's just mild rust it should clean off and it should be fine. 
    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
×
×
  • Create New...