Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Bigend%20top.jpg

Top bearing. Ignore the scratches on that photo. It's where we pused the piston and rod out.

Bigend%20bottom.jpg

Bottom bearing.

15 months (10,000 kms approx) of running E85 using 300V 15W-50 oil. Engine was alive for 32,000 kms and used the same oil the whole time. 8000 RPM generally was the shift point but it did see 9000 a few times. They don't look half bad considering the oil pump died and the head is as useless as tits on a bull.

Bigend%20top.jpg

Top bearing. Ignore the scratches on that photo. It's where we pused the piston and rod out.

Bigend%20bottom.jpg

Bottom bearing.

15 months (10,000 kms approx) of running E85 using 300V 15W-50 oil. Engine was alive for 32,000 kms and used the same oil the whole time. 8000 RPM generally was the shift point but it did see 9000 a few times. They don't look half bad considering the oil pump died and the head is as useless as tits on a bull.

and didnt burn a drop of oil its entire life :worship:

and didnt burn a drop of oil its entire life :worship:

I'd say that would have to do with the super tight clearances and the run in :thumbsup:. Spoke to Mik about the run in and it was long hard pulls in 3rd and 4th up to 6500 within 10 kms of being screwed together. He did that every night for a few weeks on Old Pac.

I'd say that would have to do with the super tight clearances and the run in :thumbsup:. Spoke to Mik about the run in and it was long hard pulls in 3rd and 4th up to 6500 within 10 kms of being screwed together. He did that every night for a few weeks on Old Pac.

yeah for sure, was obviously bolted together nicely... stupid pumps :domokun:

Bigend%20top.jpg

Top bearing. Ignore the scratches on that photo. It's where we pused the piston and rod out.

Bigend%20bottom.jpg

Bottom bearing.

15 months (10,000 kms approx) of running E85 using 300V 15W-50 oil. Engine was alive for 32,000 kms and used the same oil the whole time. 8000 RPM generally was the shift point but it did see 9000 a few times. They don't look half bad considering the oil pump died and the head is as useless as tits on a bull.

What happened to the head to make it useless ?

What happened to the head to make it useless ?

Oil pump smashed. Ex cam welded itself to a few cam caps, belt jumped a few teeth and every ex valve got a little frisky with pistons (bent every valve and scored the chambers) . Intake cam is ratto.

Oil pump smashed. Ex cam welded itself to a few cam caps, belt jumped a few teeth and every ex valve got a little frisky with pistons (bent every valve and scored the chambers) . Intake cam is ratto.

Fark...talk about a catastophic chain of events caused by one shit part ,hope it didnt damage the RRR block .

maybe the 15w50 was the key then. I know Midori built my 26 on 10w40 300V and i would think that is a standard weight/viscocity for a street R, and if there are indeed issues of thinning etc, perhaps the 15w50 covers that off and it's ok to run the 300V.

Be interesting to see what Motul themselves think after sending them this info.

maybe the 15w50 was the key then. I know Midori built my 26 on 10w40 300V and i would think that is a standard weight/viscocity for a street R, and if there are indeed issues of thinning etc, perhaps the 15w50 covers that off and it's ok to run the 300V.

Be interesting to see what Motul themselves think after sending them this info.

I would still like to have a sample taken and sent away although after it went bang I wasn't really in the mood! I don't think the amount of metal (or should I say bits of oil pump gear) would give a good and accurate analysis. A susmmary saying "Too much oil pump shavings in oil. May need to check engine" wont tell us much pinch.gif

Maybe chemically the Ester base oil's with alcohol fuels dont mix but changed enough it doesn't become an issue. The longest mine ever went without an oil change was 2000 kms. Track days and dyno tuning it always got new oil.

I would still like to have a sample taken and sent away although after it went bang I wasn't really in the mood! I don't think the amount of metal (or should I say bits of oil pump gear) would give a good and accurate analysis. A susmmary saying "Too much oil pump shavings in oil. May need to check engine" wont tell us much pinch.gif

Maybe chemically the Ester base oil's with alcohol fuels dont mix but changed enough it doesn't become an issue. The longest mine ever went without an oil change was 2000 kms. Track days and dyno tuning it always got new oil.

And you said it wasn't using oil! Man, that's "using" oil. ;)

^^

Does that mean an ester based oil is fine to use with an alcohol based fuel? (getting back on topic)

it's actually more time that's important than k's. if you take your car for a thrash, have a bunch of contamination sitting in the oil, it has time to react with the ester even if it's not being driven. obviously the more k's and the more blow by = more contamination, so it's a mixture of a few elements really. but yeh, from what penrite say, they believe that you will generally need to change oil for other reasons before the ester begins to break down, so with regular changes it is ok. i'm gonna aim to change every few months which will be about 4-6 track days, so should be fine.

i'm gonna aim to change every few months which will be about 4-6 track days, so should be fine.

with how you drive? what kinda oil temps are you seeing at the track?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
    • Sounds good, we will aim to be there! @The Bogan I'll give you a shout if you are heading up to campbelltown for the meet too.
    • Before I get to the test day, just to finish off the android head unit. This is a demo from car start up....the standard/host system takes a few seconds to boot (same as all v37) but Android comes up quickly. In this vid I'm using the delivered launcher but have set the default to Agami since which is easier to navigate when if use primarily 5 apps. You can see the host system still takes over when required eg putting it in reverse, and you can switch between Android and not by holding the back button 3 sec. It is pretty responsive (fast) but you can see I had to press harder than expected a couple of times.  I still have the phone connected to the stock system, and that also seamlessly takes over Android music playing. v37-android-demo.mp4 The bigger reason that I put this in though is so that I can use Ecutek directly on the head unit. That gives me a dash with logging (up to 20MB only), high and low value warnings on any parameter etc etc. I've run a USB cable from the Ecutek OBD dongle to a USB input on the unit, easy. v37-ecutek-demo.mp4   The unit did freeze on the launcher the other day, I think Agami was trying to verify the license when it didn't have a data connection...will monitor and report back if there are any other problems but so far I'm very happy with the upgrade.
    • Nah that is just crappy GPS mapping, I did have a small excursion (cold tyres, damp track, surprise!), will post up that when I get a chance.
    • So 10/10 times that code is coil packs? I mean if that's the case ill drop the $400USD or so to replace them. I didn't know these cars threw codes before the issue became an issue.
×
×
  • Create New...