Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 4 weeks later...

Wow... What a read. Due to being a recent E85 convert I will need to make a call on this. I only ever used castrol edge 10w60 but after looking at it's specs seems like I will need to change. I'll probably try 1 of the following 2. My car still has a standard engine so thankfully I don't have to be concerned about 10k builds. Those that know my car it is mostly time attack / club days or hill climb / motorkhana events.

1. Penrite racing 20. 20w60. Seems cheap (bout ~70-80 bucks) enough to change every 2 events or so. I like.

2. Motul 15w50. Can't seem to find what the difference is between 300V and 6100, 4100 blah blah. Seems frieken expensive wherever I look though!

Wow... What a read. Due to being a recent E85 convert I will need to make a call on this. I only ever used castrol edge 10w60 but after looking at it's specs seems like I will need to change. I'll probably try 1 of the following 2. My car still has a standard engine so thankfully I don't have to be concerned about 10k builds. Those that know my car it is mostly time attack / club days or hill climb / motorkhana events.

1. Penrite racing 20. 20w60. Seems cheap (bout ~70-80 bucks) enough to change every 2 events or so. I like.

2. Motul 15w50. Can't seem to find what the difference is between 300V and 6100, 4100 blah blah. Seems frieken expensive wherever I look though!

I've been using Castrol Edge 10w60 with Ethanol for over a year now, oil comes out fine every time it's dumped with no issues. My motor probably gets leant on a lot harder than most :)

I'm about to change fuel pumps and switch to e85 soon too. Would anyone know if the Castrol Edge is any good as a daily driver e85 oil as opposed to Simon's track car?

I'd be looking to change it every 5000 or so to avoid the oil turning to crap. I'm not too hard on the car, just squirts here and there maybe a visit to the strip some stage.

I've become a bit of a penrite fanboy of late so I may not be the best judge..but it's in everything diff/engine/box in both my cars and I'm happy. :)

40$ for hpr10, SN rated, full synth, full zinc..its a bargain

I only just started using it and havent out e85 in it yet so don't want say it's the best choice and misinform people

It does run a little thicker than I would like on the street but oil pressure stays consistent when pushed and I would even be comfortable using for light track duties...

ARTZ I agree with you on the penrite hpr cant beat it for vaule im probably going to make the shift from motul 4100 to hpr1560 since its 15 bux a bottle cheaper and since its 1 a month is a good saving. Its pretty much same as 4100 so wont be problem for e85.

Nick running edge in a daily e85 car will be fine if you swap every 5k, dailys have less issues with the oil on e85 as they spend alot of time not running dailys run constantly so every 5 k is perfect.

Probably a bit thick, better with a 10/40 or 10/50Castrol

Will be fine but there are cheaper alternatives..just look for an SN rated oil

every racepace car runs edge 10/60 and none have problems. they are probably some of the more leant on motors around too.

I use it on pulp and have no oil pressure worries.

So you have the exact same oil pressure with the edge as you did 4100..?

I went from 8100 to hpr 10, it has gone up a little

I wasn't knocking using edge at all. I have just found all cars feel a little more lively with lighter oils, especially if your down on power..if you have 500 ponies under the hood then it's hardly a problem..

But really what's edge worth 60-70$..it seems everybody is saying the best option with e85 is too change it often, so if you can get a capable oil for half the price..well it makes sense to me .

Nick running edge in a daily e85 car will be fine if you swap every 5k, dailys have less issues with the oil on e85 as they spend alot of time not running dailys run constantly so every 5 k is perfect.

Only problem is my daily driving would be classified as something like super-duper-ultra urban. :yucky:

I work like 5 mins from home, so my commute is all before the car is properly warm. Other driving is a bit better but mostly my usage is not a great amount of time at operating temp unless it's a leisure drive. Doesn't cold engine driving like that give the most amount of chance for the fuel to wash past the bores into the sump etc and destroy the oil?

So you have the exact same oil pressure with the edge as you did 4100..?

I went from 8100 to hpr 10, it has gone up a little

I wasn't knocking using edge at all. I have just found all cars feel a little more lively with lighter oils, especially if your down on power..if you have 500 ponies under the hood then it's hardly a problem..

But really what's edge worth 60-70$..it seems everybody is saying the best option with e85 is too change it often, so if you can get a capable oil for half the price..well it makes sense to me .

cant really compare the two as i changed engines at the same time... however this new engine is very very lively

when i use ethanol i use motul 15w50

Yeah but what else have you changed Hamish..I have seen the condition of your filters mate, :laugh:

A new fuel and air filter can make a huge difference alone to a cars performance.. plus better compression yadda yadda etc..try putting a 5/30 oil in it now and i bet you notice a little difference ;)

I haven't tried Edge..maybe one day for kicks..so believe me in not knocking it..especially if it comes with RP seal of approval, who am I to argue

But I think we have gone off track here cause what this thread is about is "ethanol oils" and that is why I chose the "hpr10" because I was going to tune for e85 .I was actually on my way to the servo to get a drum when Cat rang to tell me the clutch was no good :(

1..It is SN rated and it should be good with ethanol, its been designed for it

2..It is cheap so I could change it very often anyway

I was also tempted to just use my diesel oil "hpr5" same as my ute ,as it too should be good with ethanol and I also considered the Motul you are using

If I wasn't planning ethanol I would definately just stick with the 8100 , I did like it better...or maybe even try the castrol.

Though the way I'm going I will never see an e85 tune anyway..lol..

  • 2 months later...

Just abit of my finding for anyone interested during the cold this winter, car basically spent two months in the garage with being started once a week up to operating temp and when I went to drop the oil today before the next track day this is what I found.

Oil had completly absored the e85 wasnt even oily anymore ended up like water. This is motul 4100 power, it was fine for 3 months in summer but winter guess its not up to the task for being stationary.

post-50426-0-58438900-1341470337_thumb.jpg

Edited by boostn0199

Penrite also have an oil called Enviro+, designed for alcohol based fuels and diesel cars with DPFs. They make a 5-w30, 5-w40 and a 10w-40, all full synth, range between $62 and $85 / 5L bottle.

And I'm pretty sure their 10 tenths racing oils are Alcohol compatible, group 5 pao/ester 100% synth + at least $5-10 less than mobil1/castrol...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Cheers. Skyline is back on the menu, can’t get rid of it. It’s like a child you don’t want, or herpes 
    • I got back to Japan in January and was keen to get back on track as quickly as possible. Europe is god-awful for track accessibility (by comparison), so I picked up a first-gen GT86 in December just to have something I could jump into right away. The Skyline came over in a container this time and landed in early January. It was a bit battered after Europe, though—I refused to do anything beyond essential upkeep while it was over there. The clutch master cylinder gave out, and so did the power steering. I didn’t even bother changing the oil; it was the same stuff that went in just before I left Japan the first time. Naughty. Power steering parts would’ve cost double with shipping and taxes, so knowing I’d be heading back to Japan, I just postponed it and powered through the arm workout. It took a solid three months to get the car back on the road. Registration was a nightmare this time around. There were a bunch of BS fees to navigate, and sourcing parts was a headache. I needed stock seats for shaken, mistakenly blew 34k JPY on some ENR34 seats—which, of course, didn’t fit—then ended up having the car’s technical sheet amended to register it as a two-seater with the Brides. Then there’s the GT86. Amazing car. Does everything I want it to do. Parts are cheap, easy to find, and I don’t care what anyone says—it’s super rewarding to drive. I’ve done a few basic mods: diff ratio, coilovers, discs, pads, seat, etc. It already had a new exhaust manifold and the 180kph limiter removed, so I assume it’s running some kind of map. I’ve just been thrashing it at the track non-stop—mostly Fuji Speedway now, since I need something with higher speed after all that autobahn time. The wheels on the R34 always pissed me off—too big, and it was a nightmare getting tires to fit properly under the arches. So I threw in the towel and bought something that fits better. Looks way cleaner too (at least to me)—less hotboy, less attention-seeking. Still an R34, though. Now for future plans. There are a few things still outstanding with the car. First up, the rear subframe needs an overhaul—that’s priority one. Next, I need to figure out an engine rebuild plan. No timeline yet, but I want to keep it economical—not cutting corners, just not throwing tens of thousands at a mechanic I can barely communicate with. And finally, paint. Plus a bit of tidying up here and there.  
    • Nope, needed to clearance under the bar a little with a heat gun, a 1/2" extension as the "clearancer", and big hammer, I was aware of this from the onset, they fit a 2.0 with this intake no problems, but, the 2.5 is around 15mm taller than a 2.0, so "clearancing" was required  It "just" touched when test fitting, now, I have about 10mm of clearance  You cannot see where it was done, and so far, there's no contact when giving it the beans Happy days
    • It's been a while since I've updated this thread. The last year (and some) has been very hectic. In the second-half of 2024 I took the R34 on a trip through Germany, Italy, France and Switzerland - it was f*cking great. I got a little annoyed with the attention the car was getting around Europe and really didn't drive it that much. I could barely work on the car since I was living in an inner-city apartment (with underground parking). During the trip, the car lost power steering in France - split hose - and I ended up driving around 4,000kms with no power steering.  There were a few Nurburgring trips here and there, but in total the R34 amassed just shy of 7,000kms on European roads. Long story short, I broke up with the reason I was transferred to Europe for and requested to be moved back to Japan. The E90, loved it. It was a sunk cost of around EUR 10,000 and I sold it to a friend for EUR 1,500 just to get rid of it quickly. Trust me, moving countries f*cking sucks and I could not be bothered to be as methodical as I was the first time around.
×
×
  • Create New...