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I thought we were looking for milky residue..

A milky residue will only tell you the oil isn't getting up to temp, common with short trips, low temp thermostats and winter weather.

Here is an interesting read I found about oil thicknesses, not related to e85, just in general.

http://www.evolutionoz.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=87122

  • 2 weeks later...

hey guys just asking for advice today take the litte girl for a spin for 20 minutes around the block i have just put in castrol edge 10-60 for the first time when i pulling out the dip stick i can just see abit milky oil in the back of the dip stick the car gets used once a week if that is this alarm bells (head gasket) the oil has done less then 100 km after dyno tune thanks joe

Edited by gtr0321994
  • 2 weeks later...

I am tempted to throw some HPR diesel 5 in mine just cause I have half a bottle there and im poor atm...its ci-4/SL rated....not sure if good idea or not

Did a fair bit if research on BTOG. Seem diesel seems to coping with contaminants on their oil analysis. But again the consensus is the more you drive the car the less it contaminates. Same as what guys have been saying here. Diesel is generally cheaper too...$50-80 for 10 litres.

HPR diesel is a very good oil. Spoke to a guy at autobarn a while back that used to work for them and do a lot of r&d, was in their for ages chatting about oil. He made some really interesting points about oil in general. One that really made sense was that if you change your oil every 3 to 5 thousand km then full synthetic is a waste of time and that they are really designed for extended oil changes. On all the testing they did with all the oils and brands, diesel oil stood out in most areas of the testing. Interesting. But again for oil changes longer than 5000km on high performance cars synthetic is where it is.

on E85 oil has to be changed more frequent so the advantages of full synthetic is irrelevant and that's where diesel oils come into their own with the high zinc and cleaning properties. Anyway thought I would share.

I used to use Royal purple, then went AMSoil, now I'm with Shell Rotella. 5-40 or 10-40. Seems ok. but I'm only at 15% Ethanol

BTOG raves about Rotella. A lot of oil analysis done in their threads. Interesting to see what your feedback is if you keep using it. Keep us updated.

There is oxygen in some of this . Diesels are often low revving high torque engines for their capacity so it stands to reason that you can't use eco Nazi grade oil in them . Getting late emissions compliant petrol engines to survive on green oil was all about valve train changes because this area is where you get the highest point loadings in a petrol engine . Things like roller rockers and roller cam followers in pushrod engines were done specifically to make valve trains survive on green I love cat converters "oil" .

Because diesel engines have high bearing loads at low speeds the oil has to be able to form and maintain a reliable film to stop components eating each other . Because the eco Nazis are attacking diesel emissions of late you can expect them to change as well .

Take it to the grave , eco oil is about cat life in petrol engines end of story . Because the Nazis do emissions tests I believe yearly in the States they're changing cats and probes more often than we do .

Now synthetic oil , the properties good ones have are more than just living longer than dino oils . Flowing better at lower temps has nothing to do with longevity nor standing up to higher temps . If your engine runs clean and doesn't contaminate it's oil then yes it can live longer but if it doesn't then the only way to ditch these contaminants is to ditch the oil .

I like some diesel oils because to get the good anti wear additives at a sane price it's hard to go past them . Synthetics are creeping in to them and that's not a bad thing either . I run Rotella T6 5W40 and have no problems with it .

A .

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