Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

:woot: Wow 20/100?! On eflex my economy is around 15.7/100 ;) but id imagine the higher the ethanol content the higher the consumption

My economy went to crap with the switch to United and these cold starts aren't helping. More cranking enrichment, twice the fuel at under 20 degrees and it still isnt perfect. It takes a lot of fine tuning to get it spot on, I don't know how Trent does it so easily.

greddy type s coilovers (6/8 on hardest setting), castor bushes, swaybars, pineapples and nismo 1.5 diff

tyres = 235/40/18 Nitto NT-05

I have done all my suspension but i think its a bit stiff in the rear, i also have the Nismo 1.5 way (amazing diff), i guess a decent set of tyres should do the trick by the sounds of it!

greddy type s coilovers (6/8 on hardest setting), castor bushes, swaybars, pineapples and nismo 1.5 diff

tyres = 235/40/18 Nitto NT-05

Nice I have done all that an a few other things, do you reccomend the types s coilovers, mate had them in hos 34r but haven't been in gtst with them

Nitto nt05 is a great tyre, I couldn't get them in the right size in 17 diameter though so went with Yokies ad08. Grippy as all hell.

I'm hoping to join the club in the next couple of weeks, my WMI kit has arrived so I'll install this week and get it tuned soon after. Should nudge me into the 300 club ;)

greddy type s coilovers (6/8 on hardest setting), camber bushes, swaybars, pineapples and nismo 1.5 diff

tyres = 235/40/18 Nitto NT-05

haven't you also got no camber on the rear Joe...??

castor bushes wont make any difference to rear wheel grip.. :rofl:

lol... i wrote camber and castor, and then realised that we aren't really talking about the fronts here so i deleted it.... must have deleted the wrong one.

i only have camber bushes on the rear. it's not flat, but it's reasonably close

How can you people get such good fuel economy with 300ish rwkw? My daily driver R34 200rwkw ALWAYS gets 19-20L/100kms, it is seriously REALLY f*ked. My right foot is not too bad, just the ocassional squirt to 5-7k rpms in 1st, 2nd and 3rd lasting less than 10 seconds.

Haha ive seen how u drive. U should buy a prius

My right foot is not too bad

Yes, yes it is. Either that or it's the tune.

There are only two factors really, but im guessing it's a foot problem.

And my figures quoted earlier - that wasn't using the O2 sensor. That was with it disabled and the tune adjusted to suit.

400rwkw rb26 would be more appropriate as 350kw is about the norm isnt it

lol... i wrote camber and castor, and then realised that we aren't really talking about the fronts here so i deleted it.... must have deleted the wrong one.

i only have camber bushes on the rear. it's not flat, but it's reasonably close

I actually thought that may have been the case. ;)

aalright after my embarresing 35r result ive scraped that setup and now got me a 3076r 6 boost and tial 44mm will be ran on pump results shouldnt be all that far away

I run a 6Boost, tial 44mm and 3037.... Car only made around 311rwkw on 17psi, so you should be able to get in the club ;) or just run E85 as it made 340rwkw on the same boost etc ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...