Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Test fitted some wheels.

F - 9 +30, 255

R - 10 +38, 295

With about 2.5 deg camber on the rear it was slightly pokey, and flush with 2 deg camber on the front.

Decided to go with,

F - 9 +35

R - 9.5 +38

RPF1s on their way from japan, hope this helps anyone looking to go big.

10588654_814795625218233_842044625_n1_zp

10585598_814803338550795_616279295_n_zps

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

I put on something similar Koya Cr Tek 18 x 8.5 +32 offset all round with Federal 595 235x 40x 18

Car is GTT r34.

Had the original wheela on it before handles excellent. No guard rolling.

  • 2 months later...

I want 18x9.5 inch all round, rears im fine with +38 but for the fronts its hard to find out exactly what offset i would need.

I would prefer no gaurd roll back can do if scraping.

Would +35 front be ok?

9.5 + 35 probably wont clear the inner suspension on the front.

You would probably need to go for a much lower offset if you want 9.5 on the front.

I went 18x9.5 +22, Volk Racing TE37SL's with 245/35/18 tyres.

Guards are rolled just to be safe and car is lowered w Coilovers.

Clears the plastic lining in the front with no rubbing at all.

Slightest poke on the front but hardly noticeable.

IMG_87292222_zpsc5b30122.jpg

10834093_10153371011077571_1859539448_n_

10743558_10153312105092571_69778459_n_zp

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...