Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Had some ku36s before and they impressed me for street and track. They do go off after 2 hard laps at wakefield but till then were good. They do deteriorate rather quick in performance from when new to old.

Have some nt01s on now and keen to try these on wakefield...seems from reports it might not be too suitable but i generally do 2 flying laps then a cooldown or 2.
Interesting that someone noted nt01s aren't much better than rsr's... i would've expected them to be. New ku36's i think were marginally better than rsr's and these nt01's destroy the ku36s imho.

Interesting to note is the nt01 seems to be very light, especially for an r comp... and the sidewall is not stiff at all...

I have NT01's. They are simply Toyo R888 in disguise. Nitto is a brand subsiduary of Toyo. They are made by Toyo in Japan, in Toyo factories. Have the same construction according to Nitto/Toyo. Have the same compound. They're just a Toyo R888 with a different pattern and cheaper price.

Like the Toyo R888 which I've also had, they're not a great semi. They're OK, but not a patch on the top ones. But they are half the price, so what would you expect? If you want a cheap semi that will do the job OK and be consistent through it's life, they're fine. If you're expecting really good things from them compared to other semis, you'll probably be dissapointed.

Had some ku36s before and they impressed me for street and track. They do go off after 2 hard laps at wakefield but till then were good. They do deteriorate rather quick in performance from when new to old.

Have some nt01s on now and keen to try these on wakefield...seems from reports it might not be too suitable but i generally do 2 flying laps then a cooldown or 2.
Interesting that someone noted nt01s aren't much better than rsr's... i would've expected them to be. New ku36's i think were marginally better than rsr's and these nt01's destroy the ku36s imho.

Interesting to note is the nt01 seems to be very light, especially for an r comp... and the sidewall is not stiff at all...

That's the opposite of my experience with all those tyres.

I set PBs on KU36 right to the end of their life. They stayed very consistent right through their life.

KU36 are not in the same league as RSR's performance - no way in the world!

I'd have to agree that NT01's are not a whole lot better in performance than RSR. They will last longer though, and not go off as quickly as RSR's in a session.

NT01 sidewall is as stiff as other semis I've used, and I wouldn't say they were light for a semi either.

Are you sure you're not talking about NT05's?

  • 2 weeks later...

Just came back from wakefield today running the nt01's.
As expected (to me), they slaughter the ku36's i had before. Steering was so much busier with ku36's constantly doing mini counters to prevent the arse coming out (sometimes on entry but mostly on exit).

Tires responded well to pressure change, found sweet spot for me was around 35-36 hot. They do go off after a good hard few laps needing a 2 lap cool down (perfect, as the fluids needed it then too lol).

hrd-hr30,

Yep i know the nt01s are almost the same as r888's. I have read/heard that the nt01's for some reason are noticeably better than the r888's though ?? *shrugs*.
At the price i got them for, i'm not complaining but you're right... i would love to try some a048/50s some day.

Also, after a session today, i pushed the top of the tire fairly lightly and could see the sidewall move lol. Ku36 sidewalls were definitely stiffer. I can feel it just driving around on the streets from just going over bumps even ? Hrmm

Edited by Touge Kyousou

Fatz,

The nt01's feel a bit better than a second faster than ku36's to me, but my experience is only wakefield. Though... i did change wheels at the same time so it's not apples to apples unfortunately.

hrd-hr30,

Yep i know the nt01s are almost the same as r888's. I have read/heard that the nt01's for some reason are noticeably better than the r888's though ?? *shrugs*.

At the price i got them for, i'm not complaining but you're right... i would love to try some a048/50s some day.

Also, after a session today, i pushed the top of the tire fairly lightly and could see the sidewall move lol. Ku36 sidewalls were definitely stiffer. I can feel it just driving around on the streets from just going over bumps even ? Hrmm

If they are, I couldn't notice it - and I've had both R888 and NT01. The Nitto is also designed to be buffed down to a 2 groove cheater slick for optimum dry performance. Perhaps the people who claim they're noticeably better buff them...

They must have changed KU36 since I've had them! Really stiff sidewalls and faster than RSR's are not the way I'd describe them. I found that they worked best at about 42-44psi like a normal street tyre due to their soft construction...

NT01s on the other hand, like other proper semi slicks with stronger construction, I run at about 32psi hot and let the tyre's construction do the job it's designed for.

Edited by hrd-hr30

NT01s on the other hand, like other proper semi slicks with stronger construction, I run at about 32psi hot and let the tyre's construction do the job it's designed for.

Plus 1 on the nt-01, not the quickest semi, but you can beat the hell out of them and lasts for a age.

Just came back from a trackday on slicks..... Michelins.

Never going back to semis (unless for regulation)

So progressive. But so so hard to get temp into on a cold day at Wakefield. A solid three laps before they were round a decent temp.

Just came back from a trackday on slicks..... Michelins.

Never going back to semis (unless for regulation)

So progressive. But so so hard to get temp into on a cold day at Wakefield. A solid three laps before they were round a decent temp.

Michelin Man :ph34r:

I got them from a friend who uses them on a Group A car, that I work on pro bono. I got the old stuff at the back of the shed. :)

24/64/17 S8D.

Unfortunately retail is around $500ea new.

Best to figure out what size you want, and then try to figure out who would use them. I'll give you a hint, V8 supercar tyres work quite well on GTRs if you can get your hands on some...

  • Like 1

Where'd you get slicks from and how much? Always considered getting a set to try.

dude, buy some ex-porsche cup dunlop slicks. most of the guys bin them after each race meet (3 sessions or so). usually want $100 each for them and susprisingly last a while

dude, buy some ex-porsche cup dunlop slicks. most of the guys bin them after each race meet (3 sessions or so). usually want $100 each for them and susprisingly last a while

Pretty sure that's what I'll do when the ADO8's die.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...