Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Had some ku36s before and they impressed me for street and track. They do go off after 2 hard laps at wakefield but till then were good. They do deteriorate rather quick in performance from when new to old.

Have some nt01s on now and keen to try these on wakefield...seems from reports it might not be too suitable but i generally do 2 flying laps then a cooldown or 2.
Interesting that someone noted nt01s aren't much better than rsr's... i would've expected them to be. New ku36's i think were marginally better than rsr's and these nt01's destroy the ku36s imho.

Interesting to note is the nt01 seems to be very light, especially for an r comp... and the sidewall is not stiff at all...

I have NT01's. They are simply Toyo R888 in disguise. Nitto is a brand subsiduary of Toyo. They are made by Toyo in Japan, in Toyo factories. Have the same construction according to Nitto/Toyo. Have the same compound. They're just a Toyo R888 with a different pattern and cheaper price.

Like the Toyo R888 which I've also had, they're not a great semi. They're OK, but not a patch on the top ones. But they are half the price, so what would you expect? If you want a cheap semi that will do the job OK and be consistent through it's life, they're fine. If you're expecting really good things from them compared to other semis, you'll probably be dissapointed.

Had some ku36s before and they impressed me for street and track. They do go off after 2 hard laps at wakefield but till then were good. They do deteriorate rather quick in performance from when new to old.

Have some nt01s on now and keen to try these on wakefield...seems from reports it might not be too suitable but i generally do 2 flying laps then a cooldown or 2.
Interesting that someone noted nt01s aren't much better than rsr's... i would've expected them to be. New ku36's i think were marginally better than rsr's and these nt01's destroy the ku36s imho.

Interesting to note is the nt01 seems to be very light, especially for an r comp... and the sidewall is not stiff at all...

That's the opposite of my experience with all those tyres.

I set PBs on KU36 right to the end of their life. They stayed very consistent right through their life.

KU36 are not in the same league as RSR's performance - no way in the world!

I'd have to agree that NT01's are not a whole lot better in performance than RSR. They will last longer though, and not go off as quickly as RSR's in a session.

NT01 sidewall is as stiff as other semis I've used, and I wouldn't say they were light for a semi either.

Are you sure you're not talking about NT05's?

  • 2 weeks later...

Just came back from wakefield today running the nt01's.
As expected (to me), they slaughter the ku36's i had before. Steering was so much busier with ku36's constantly doing mini counters to prevent the arse coming out (sometimes on entry but mostly on exit).

Tires responded well to pressure change, found sweet spot for me was around 35-36 hot. They do go off after a good hard few laps needing a 2 lap cool down (perfect, as the fluids needed it then too lol).

hrd-hr30,

Yep i know the nt01s are almost the same as r888's. I have read/heard that the nt01's for some reason are noticeably better than the r888's though ?? *shrugs*.
At the price i got them for, i'm not complaining but you're right... i would love to try some a048/50s some day.

Also, after a session today, i pushed the top of the tire fairly lightly and could see the sidewall move lol. Ku36 sidewalls were definitely stiffer. I can feel it just driving around on the streets from just going over bumps even ? Hrmm

Edited by Touge Kyousou

Fatz,

The nt01's feel a bit better than a second faster than ku36's to me, but my experience is only wakefield. Though... i did change wheels at the same time so it's not apples to apples unfortunately.

hrd-hr30,

Yep i know the nt01s are almost the same as r888's. I have read/heard that the nt01's for some reason are noticeably better than the r888's though ?? *shrugs*.

At the price i got them for, i'm not complaining but you're right... i would love to try some a048/50s some day.

Also, after a session today, i pushed the top of the tire fairly lightly and could see the sidewall move lol. Ku36 sidewalls were definitely stiffer. I can feel it just driving around on the streets from just going over bumps even ? Hrmm

If they are, I couldn't notice it - and I've had both R888 and NT01. The Nitto is also designed to be buffed down to a 2 groove cheater slick for optimum dry performance. Perhaps the people who claim they're noticeably better buff them...

They must have changed KU36 since I've had them! Really stiff sidewalls and faster than RSR's are not the way I'd describe them. I found that they worked best at about 42-44psi like a normal street tyre due to their soft construction...

NT01s on the other hand, like other proper semi slicks with stronger construction, I run at about 32psi hot and let the tyre's construction do the job it's designed for.

Edited by hrd-hr30

NT01s on the other hand, like other proper semi slicks with stronger construction, I run at about 32psi hot and let the tyre's construction do the job it's designed for.

Plus 1 on the nt-01, not the quickest semi, but you can beat the hell out of them and lasts for a age.

Just came back from a trackday on slicks..... Michelins.

Never going back to semis (unless for regulation)

So progressive. But so so hard to get temp into on a cold day at Wakefield. A solid three laps before they were round a decent temp.

Just came back from a trackday on slicks..... Michelins.

Never going back to semis (unless for regulation)

So progressive. But so so hard to get temp into on a cold day at Wakefield. A solid three laps before they were round a decent temp.

Michelin Man :ph34r:

I got them from a friend who uses them on a Group A car, that I work on pro bono. I got the old stuff at the back of the shed. :)

24/64/17 S8D.

Unfortunately retail is around $500ea new.

Best to figure out what size you want, and then try to figure out who would use them. I'll give you a hint, V8 supercar tyres work quite well on GTRs if you can get your hands on some...

  • Like 1

Where'd you get slicks from and how much? Always considered getting a set to try.

dude, buy some ex-porsche cup dunlop slicks. most of the guys bin them after each race meet (3 sessions or so). usually want $100 each for them and susprisingly last a while

dude, buy some ex-porsche cup dunlop slicks. most of the guys bin them after each race meet (3 sessions or so). usually want $100 each for them and susprisingly last a while

Pretty sure that's what I'll do when the ADO8's die.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think the concept is highlighting the various scenarios where thicker oil helps, and thicker oil potentially doesn't help and only generates heat and costs power, in turn for safety which isn't actually any safer (unless you're going real hot). If anything this does highlight why throwing Castrol 10w-60 for your track days is always a solid, safe bet. 
    • Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
    • I don't think there's any way someone is push starting this car.. I honestly can barely move it, and moving it and steering it is just flat out not possible. I'm sure it is, but needs a bigger man than me. I have a refurbished starter now. The starter man was quite clear and consise showing me how nothing inside a starter really should contribute to slow cranking, and turned out that for the most part... my starter was entirely fine. Still, some of the wear items were replaced and luckily it didn't show any signs of getting too hot, being unfit for use, etc. Which is 'good'. I also noticed the starter definitely sounded different, which is a bit odd considering nothing should have really changed there.... Removed and refit, and we'll pretend one of the manifold bolts didn't fully tighten up and is only "pretty" tight. GM only wants 18ft/lb anyway. I also found a way to properly get my analog wideband reading very slightly leaner than the serial wideband. There's Greg related reasons for this. The serial output is the absolute source of truth, but it is a total asshole to actually stay connected and needs a laptop. The analog input does not, and works with standalone datalogging. Previously the analog input read slightly richer, but if I am aiming at 12.7 I do not want one of the widebands to be saying 12.7 when the source of truth is 13.0. Now the source of truth will be 12.65 and the Analog Wideband will read 12.7. So when I tune to 12.7 it'll be ever so slightly safer. While messing with all of this and idling extensively I can confirm my car seems to restart better while hot now. I did add an old Skyline battery cable between the head and the body though, though now I really realise I should have chosen the frame. Maybe that's a future job. The internet would have you believe that this is caused by bad grounds. In finding out where my grounds actually were I found out the engine bay battery post actually goes to the engine, as well as a seperate one (from the post) to the body of the car. So now there's a third one making the Grounding Triangle which is now a thing. I also from extensive idling have this graph. Temperature (°C) Voltage (V) 85 1.59 80 1.74 75 1.94 70 2.1 65 2.33 60 2.56 55 2.78 50 2.98 45 3.23 40 3.51 35 3.75 30 4.00   Plotted it looks like this. Which is actually... pretty linear? I have not actually put the formula into HPTuners. I will have to re-engage brain and/or re-engage the people who wanted more data to magically do it for me. Tune should be good for the 30th!
×
×
  • Create New...