Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

oh really? shit.. I've been driving on the streets with them to the track LOL...

been pulled over once and a copper said they look bald.. so I showed him the tread indicator and he was happy they were above the indicators and off I went

DOT? We're not in America. These are DOT too:

ho_a7_ci2_l.jpg

NT01 have no load index rating on the sidewalls. They're not road legal in Australia. They're not CAMS approved either. They're not good for much at all really.

Edited by hrd-hr30

Are the nankangs road legal?

I reckon 265 vs 265 Nitto v nankang that they would be very similar speed, but also willing to bet the Nitto would be more consistent over the lifespan of the tyre and the nankang will fall off.

Yet you hold such a grudge.

Anyway I'm over it. Back to real data and no more speculations.

lol Silly me! I thought I had real data having used both tyres on the same car. I defer to your "I reckon" and "I bet" guesswork based on never even having seen one of these tyres...

Edited by hrd-hr30
  • Like 1

no, but your post did - you asked me a question (yes the Nankangs are road legal btw), then told me I hold "such a grudge".

NT01 are consistent, that's true. But you can't lose what you never had :P

AR01 could drop off at least a second over their life and still be as good as brand new NT01s. The soft compound Hankook Z221s when they had totally given up the ghost and were sliding around all over the place were still faster than the NT01s, but it was time to chuck them out as absolute garbage.
What the Nankangs do over heat cycles remains to be seen. I've had tyres that heat cycle really well and ones that deteriorate very quickly after a handful of track days, but I certainly can't tell which would do what from just driving on them once, let alone just from their brand name.

FWIW, Nankang has technology licencing and technical support agreements with Yokohama... That's from Yokohama's website, not Nankang's - they don't mention it at all. Who knows how much of their technology is involved with the AR1, but it was one of the factors that encouraged me to take the gamble on these $209 semis! lol I wouldn't be so quick to write them off before trying them.

I'm keen, but they need a new name LOL

call them Yokakangs.. I will buy

Nankangs, no...

I nearly killed myself 10+ years ago on Nankangs NS-2.. now that I am older, wiser and have some form of cash flow I refuse to buy Nankangs.

Nt01 is only a intro semi which back before the rsrr was released they could be had for the same price.

This argument is silly.

I agree, because Nitto has beautiful women promoting the brand so it must be good.

post-22311-0-42861300-1466143821_thumb.png

  • Like 1

lol this thread heated up ;) I've used NT01's which are a real semi slick and not bad but not up there with the best for racing in 2016. One thing with Harry's reports is that they are roughly comparative with the other tyres he has used so to dismiss them outright is just plain dumb. Then again he won't say what cold pressures are used so...........

lol this thread heated up ;) I've used NT01's which are a real semi slick and not bad but not up there with the best for racing in 2016. One thing with Harry's reports is that they are roughly comparative with the other tyres he has used so to dismiss them outright is just plain dumb. Then again he won't say what cold pressures are used so...........

Agree that testing with the same car and driver is the best evidence. Not sure why you think his cold pressure is a big deal, just play with it and see what works. Will be different on different cars anyway.

1. They're the slowest semi money can buy.

2. They're not road legal so you can't even legally drive to the track on them which is a PITA.

3. They're not CAMS approved for production car classes.

You're better of doing very similar times on street tyres, or buying literally any other semi (other than R888 :P)

What's wrong with the R888 (besides being the same compound as NT01)?

The replacement tyre R888R is street legal, it'll be interesting to see if the upcoming NT01 replacement will be too, and whether they'll again share the same compound.

Also the NT01 vs. RS-RR comparison seems a little odd, they're a different category tyre aren't they (100 treadwear semi vs. 140 treadwear street semi)?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What bedding in procedure did you use?   When you say stutter, what exactly do you mean? Like it feels like someone letting go of the brakes momentarily and regrabbing them again to get you to stop? Re-reading your post, and that is what it kind of makes me think you're explaining, like theres a little bit of a jolt, likely just as you're reaching a stop. I've only had this issue once. And if its caused by what caused mine, you will want to get the car up on stands again and check it over. Mine was a case of a caliper mounting bolt coming out and letting the caliper rotate on the other remaining bolt and gave play in a wheel as it came to a stop. But not every stop either!
    • Yeop... binned it   This will be a summary will not many pics atm and cbf  Fixed the samsonas - it was totally munched Put a new precision 7675 T4 on with proper split pulse mani Got to Sydney to get to car - drove to canberra to get racecar - drive back to sydney that night Next day all day at Plasmaman putting on new clamps cleaning some things up and adding another large engine oil cooler sitting at the rear above diffuser to keep things cooler Next day - Tuesday - on Dyno - killer wikid awesome pumped out really good numbers - more mid range and on lower boost levels Wednesday - first prac - all day again getting the suspension right - had to borrow front suspension again - out do a lap come in - out do a lap - in - what i had just couldnt handle the load at the more consistent higher speeds - got a lap in at the end of the day that was pretty reasonable  Put it this way that lap wouldve had me in 4th in Pro am for the whole event - with only 700 hp and used tyres Thurs first official prac day - lap out warm up - then entered a hotlap with above setting and 80% effort took corners 1,2,3 and into 4 car felt awesome -  rear came around out of nowhere bang into the wall near front on at whatever 140 kmph Done, over, gone Just one of those how did that happen apparently as all indications show nothing out of the ordinary Got to spend the rest of the time at the event like I hadnt done before - was actually Ok mainly as I had my family and my boy is 9 and got treated like a rockstar Long trip home, lost a trailer wheel in nowhere land, X5 airbag suspension gave up half way across nullabour and rode on bumps stops (its now completely fine) had to do a 19 hr drive day on day 3 as accommodation got screwed up so just had to keep driving till found a town with some Now to reassess - hopefully the motor and other things are OK but yet to be seen too. There is no easy fix there is no i'll just order that part and get it sent - we'll have a talk to people see what can happen and what the go is but at minimum its rebuild from scratch struts forward and alot of time effort and $ should and if I return and if but maybe/ when  I have the cage tied into the front strut towers - if I didnt have that things couldnt been worse you can say its just a front end but if you know what goes into these cars... you'll know what that actually means in reality   Car was very fast. Disappointing we just didnt get to show it Effort doesnt win you races though     Apparently this is motorsport !  
    • Thanks, will do that.  Thankfully they still feel great.
    • Yeah man, absolutely. You can try pushing me all the way in swapping the R34 for an E9x M3 
    • It's almost certainly going to be some amount of pads compound transfer onto the rotors. It will probably go away after you've run them for a bit. If not, pull it all out, lightly sand the rotors, scuff the pads, and rebed.
×
×
  • Create New...