Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

+1 for bleeding the brakes. Mine were going soft after two sessions. I need to do a full flush and I have the RBF660! I think Neil mentioned that most of the racer guys run something else.. Don't remember what though.

I run Hawk Blue Race pads. Great pad for running all day without fade, but they will eat rotors. But then again, I think any really agressive pad will. Changing pads on Skylines is so easy I really recommend getting a set just for track and different set for the street. I run A1RM's on the street. Will probably step up to the Hawk HT-10's soon.

  • Replies 129
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

+1 for bleeding the brakes. Mine were going soft after two sessions. I need to do a full flush and I have the RBF660! I think Neil mentioned that most of the racer guys run something else.. Don't remember what though.

I run Hawk Blue Race pads. Great pad for running all day without fade, but they will eat rotors. But then again, I think any really agressive pad will. Changing pads on Skylines is so easy I really recommend getting a set just for track and different set for the street. I run A1RM's on the street. Will probably step up to the Hawk HT-10's soon.

Would be keen to hear what fluid the racer guys use so I know in the future

Yea after finally doing a track day I can see that the pads I have (project mu Bspec) are good for the street and the odd spirited drive

Will be getting a second set of pads dedicated to track days will probably go the club racers (bit of a project mu whore :P) and have only heard good things about them

I'm hooked on track days now hahaha

i use motul rbf600. bleed before every track day, and on saturday arvo if you back up for the sunday ;)

i use hawk ht10 for the track on a custom brake set up. i've tried ferodo ds3000 but were no where near as good.

if you're on standard rotors, ferodo ds2500 are a good compromise on price, performance and rotor/pad wear. may be a little dusty than what you use now tho

i also run brake ducting from the front bar and use air deflectors as well

the brakes work every corner, lap after lap

just wondering what a oil temp would be that would cause damage to your car?? mine was at to around 120 when i was really giving it.

although at wakie in december it didnt get over 110 which was alot hotter day!

could it be my coolant isnt as fresh as it was in dec??

defs getting an oil cooler before another day and only did 4 proper runs in my car, 1 where i was going for real PB breaking speed (pitty i didnt get someone to time the bastard haha, would of beaten it for sure!)

also, if i were to get serious about track days what would be more things to protect the whole car??? (mainly the engine)

also, if i were to get serious about track days what would be more things to protect the whole car??? (mainly the engine)

Good ideas include:

External oil cooler

Fresh fully synth oil, around 10w-50 rating

Overfill oil by 1/2 litre

Oil catch can plummed correctly

Monitor oil levels and pressure regularly

Baffeled sump

Extended sump

Dry sump

Rich tune (also gives you a flame thrower effect on those chasing you)

Monitor air fuel ratio's

Good brake pads like nismo. Stay away from EBC reds (personal opinion)

fair enough, well cooler and catch can would be on the list for the next one. i use royal purple 10-40, some very good tips there :)

for a rich tune id probably need a tune first lol.

i dont understand the sump things, i shall research :)

thanks for your reply

(i know i could go to another section but i figured there were alot of people on the day itd help a few guys out)

i use motul rbf600. bleed before every track day, and on saturday arvo if you back up for the sunday ;)

i use hawk ht10 for the track on a custom brake set up. i've tried ferodo ds3000 but were no where near as good.

if you're on standard rotors, ferodo ds2500 are a good compromise on price, performance and rotor/pad wear. may be a little dusty than what you use now tho

i also run brake ducting from the front bar and use air deflectors as well

the brakes work every corner, lap after lap

see thats what i think i missed, bleeding before the day!!

Only had the new rotors (project mu scr pro fronts, dba 4000 rears) braided lines and rbf600 installed last october but engine went 3weeks after so probably only 3000km on this setup

maybe moisture was absorbed as it sat waiting for the new engine who knows hahaha

Atleast i know how to be more prepared for the next track day :D

Good brake pads like nismo. Stay away from EBC reds (personal opinion)

yep fark those EBC pieces of shit..

im running endless CCR-G pads with Lucas/TRW Grand Prix 600 fluid on my new brembo's

Having ridden in the GTR that these came from I can tell you they stop like stink and will go all day everyday.. Did 4 or so sessions back to back in december

Anyone tried Hawk DT60's?

Yes I have, and they were the best (ie most effective) race pads I have used, they are top notch.

Under the old race rules we had to run standard brakes, so I had to try heaps of different pads to find the ones that work best. I stopped looking after I tried the Hawk DT60.

Those are Hawk HT60 on the front....

hot_brakes.jpg

I got mine from Matt at Race Brakes Sydney for a good price.

I understand Neil is also running these in his race car too.

Yes I have, and they were the best (ie most effective) race pads I have used, they are top notch.

Under the old race rules we had to run standard brakes, so I had to try heaps of different pads to find the ones that work best. I stopped looking after I tried the Hawk DT60.

Those are Hawk HT60 on the front....

hot_brakes.jpg

I got mine from Matt at Race Brakes Sydney for a good price.

I understand Neil is also running these in his race car too.

But Neil drives to slow to makes sparks right?

LOL :nyaanyaa:

Yes I have, and they were the best (ie most effective) race pads I have used, they are top notch.

Under the old race rules we had to run standard brakes, so I had to try heaps of different pads to find the ones that work best. I stopped looking after I tried the Hawk DT60.

Thanks for that Dunc, just spoke to Matt then he's getting me some prices. Would you put the same in the rears?

Cheers!

I use DTC-60s front and HT-10 rear for street and track. They will punish your rotors a bit and can be ridiculously noisy with street use but its too hard to accept the crap performance of street pads once you try these. I was previously using DS2500s and didnt want to go back to them after using the DTCs.

Im on to my second set now. I did some express bedding in before the NSCC track day on Sunday and they completely caught fire haha!!! Even when on fire they were working 100% :)

I have not tried race brakes however you might want to compare prices with http://www.hawkpadsdirect.com/ I get mine sent EMS for $260, last I checked in Sydney a couple of years ago another brake shop quoted me $430 hence choosing to buy from overseas.

Yes I have, and they were the best (ie most effective) race pads I have used, they are top notch.

Under the old race rules we had to run standard brakes, so I had to try heaps of different pads to find the ones that work best. I stopped looking after I tried the Hawk DT60.

Those are Hawk HT60 on the front....

hot_brakes.jpg

I got mine from Matt at Race Brakes Sydney for a good price.

I understand Neil is also running these in his race car too.

people almost always use the compound of the rear pad to even out inherant inbalances in the braking system. In my case I can't even remember what was in the rear, some pagids or sbs I guess, but they are much less aggressive.

In a reasonably standard skyline brake system I would put something less aggressive in the front. If you want to stay with hawk I would go HT-10.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Waaay ahead of ya....(evil laugh!!) Will show the fitment and spec details later when it isnt as rainy !
    • Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
×
×
  • Create New...