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If I'm gonna go ahead with this ive narrowed it down to 2 kits:

Snow performance stage 2 kit

Or

AEM injection kit

Just looking into the availability of methanol and if it's worth running in a internaly stock rb26 aiming for around 330ish kw

I won't be using this kit to push more power, but thinking it could be a better option than E85 as its not always available on long drives etc

If its to only be used for "safety" could it only be used on demineralized water to keep intake temps down?

If I'm gonna go ahead with this ive narrowed it down to 2 kits:

Snow performance stage 2 kit

Or

AEM injection kit

Just looking into the availability of methanol and if it's worth running in a internaly stock rb26 aiming for around 330ish kw

I won't be using this kit to push more power, but thinking it could be a better option than E85 as its not always available on long drives etc

If its to only be used for "safety" could it only be used on demineralized water to keep intake temps down?

I may be interested to sell my Snow Performance stage 2 kit, if your interested it could save you a couple of dollars. Its still BNIB.

Using demineralized water should let you reach the further point of the compressors flow. IE if you want to run -9s on your car but know 330kw is probably their limit if your lucky, using water injection would get you there 'easier', if not a little further (due to the ability to push more boost).

Ive changed plans with my car for now (as I always do) and will pick them up again after some alter-life (non car related things) are taken care of. If nobody wants to save a couple of dollars by picking up my kit I will just leave it on the shelf where it is.

this may be a stupid question, but where do you purchase methanol from?

I got mine from repco - purchased a 20 litre drum. I could have got it cheaper elsewhere but then I was stuck with finding a courier/carrier that would transport it - being flammable, most don't want to know about it.

And your car won't rust away if you set your thresholds at say 30% IDC and 5psi. Think about it, you won't be boosting coming up your street or entering your driveway, so any WMI should have burnt off/evaporated well and truly before you turn the car off. However if your driving it like a getaway car then all bets are off.

And I've never heard of WMI going jelly, I've had some mixed up in a plastic bottle [i carry it for trips as a reserve and really haven't had to use it] for around 12 months and I can't see any difference. I'll keep it seperate now and see, but if it hasn't done it by now then it probably won't happen. The only thing I can think of [and you'd need a chemical degree/Mythbusters to prove it] is if there is some evaporation of the Methanol out of the water and through the plastic container - talking atoms here. And I'd say that the effects would have to be so small as to be negligible. Even if it does happen, you'd still be using WI, which would have a semi similar effect [previously discussed in this thread and others], so overall I'm not concerned for my car or set up.

  • 4 weeks later...

Am I right in saying that the Aquamist HFS3-v2 starts injection at a set manifold presure/MAF sensor reading, but injects proportional to the injector cycle? Ie 2.5 volts to trigger the system on, then a constant 15% water to fuel injection by mocking injector cycle? Do any other kits offer this exact method?

got some killer before and after graphs for water meth, i love the stuff.. great substitute if e85 is not available as the better option. i will chase them up and post them

What kit have you been using...?

WIll post them up tomorrow. Snow performance kits.

M5 supercharged bimmer 300 without 340 wmi on

s14 tomei t25 footprint turbo 295rwkw without 330 wmi on

Jzz30 soarer cant quite remember but we ran out of spark but was 420rwkw something wmi on.

I am another non believer of W or WM injection having anything to do with compression ratios be they static or dynamic .

Firstly you have to compress the charge air and fuel before the mixture is fired so anything going on before the fire is lit is a pre not current combustion event .

Maybe what people are trying to say is that the water vapour changing state increases the combustion pressure but I find that a bit hard to believe as well .

Many years ago David Vizard wrothe a book called How to modify Ford SOHC Engines and he speaks about using water or water methanol injection as being as anti detonant injection . He quite rightly states that water doesn't burn and you need to take a minimalist approach meaning just enough water to supress detonation and no more or performance suffers .

I think to understand how the process works we have to understand what causes the detonation so we can find ways to prevent it . In my mind its often heat and pressure in the chambers that cooks the mixture off and ignites it at an unintentional place and time . I believe all the water mist can be expected to do if metered properly is drop the combustion pressure/temperature to the point that the mixture doesn't light up at all unless the ignition system innitiates it .

Where your extra power (torque) comes from is being able to run ignition timing numbers aimed at the most efficient combustion rather than most efficient means of preventing the engine killing itself .

Also as mentioned methanol has large evapourative cooling effect and lower charge temps means lower combustion temps all else being equal . This added to the fact that methanol is a flammable gas (vapour) means you counteract the fact that water doesn't burn so an around 50/50 mix starts to look pretty good .

Everyone has their own theories and atm from what I've read and spoken to people about these seem to make sense to me anyway .

A .

Edited by discopotato03

My theory as follows (with zero intention to condescend or offend and I well and truly recognize I am no particle engineer):

Water takes up less volume than its steam counterpart. Steam is the byproduct of water exchanging for heat. So the water soaks up heat, and surpresses detonation, but converts into steam which occupies more volume than its original form and thus incurs an increase in pressure (being a sealed chamber).

So while you might be saying your surpressing heat which is in turn pressure, the result is still pressure without the heat.

The reality here is that we cant run a pressure gauge into the cylinder while its running, so we will never know whos right or wrong. But the 2 variables are that there is either more or less pressure in the cylinder after the process. Perhaps the heat the water takes away has a higher potential for pressure than the resultant steam does, or perhaps the opposite. Who knows.

Dismissing an increase in pressure simply because an overdose of water acts as a power suppressant is like dismissing the fact water douses fire.

What I do know is that WI is rather effective lol now lets be friends and hoon on forever.

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