Lets Talk Water Meth Injection

[t_revz]

^^ that sounds sarcastic lol

[jet_r31]

lol, joys of the internet, nah no sarcasm, if its progressive for another $100, well progressive controllers are generally lot more than that

so sounds good, i now nothing about the brand or anything( well i have AEM gauge, but no water inj shit)

cheers

darren

Edited October 23, 2012 by jet_r31

[rob82]

Tune completed!

Red line is the stock ECU with an SAFC

Green line is the Nistune Z32 ECU re-tuned for ~9.5 psi

Orange line is the current tune with the WMI on and some minor adjustments.

Although there isn't a massive gain in power, the tune doesn't rely solely on the WMI to make power, if the WMI does fail, it will leave the tune close to the edge, but not mean an instantly lunched engine. Had a bit of trouble initially as the nozzle is simply too large for the power the cars making, after dropping the pump pressure down a bit it netted worth-while results.

The good bits:

-Big drop in intake temps, run after run, everything down-stream of the nozzle right up to the head wasn't just ambient temperature but physically COLD to touch.

-Big drop in coolant temps (and assume exhaust temps) car ran in the 85-90 degree mark and would warm slightly after each run, with the WMI turned on, the temp dropped back down to the 80 degree mark and held there.

-Boost holds better in the top end

-Mid range power and torque are both improved, peak power and torque are a touch higher.

How does the kit work? Well, after a bit of research I wanted to try WMI, but didn't like the 4 figure price tag of the Aquamist system, yet could see flaws in the on/off systems.

I ended up buying a cooling mist "stage one" on/off system, and experimented by modifying it my own way.

In brief, the hobbs switch activates a mechanical relay, that then sends power to a solid state relay, this relay is run off an injector earth, so that once pre-set boost pressure is reached the pump runs at the same duty cycle as the injectors. Having two relays does mean an extra point of failure, but also means if the hobbs switch, mechanical relay or solid state relay fail in the closed postion, I don't end up with 4 litres of water in the engine.

It's far from perfect, and does run a tad too much in some spots and not enough in others, but for $330, ($300 kit, $15 relay and $15 for conduit and other stuff) the gains are definitely worth while, and it's a step up from an on-off system.

The down-side being there isn't a fail-safe if the kit fails, so the tune was kept conservative to keep the engine in-tact if something does go wrong. A smaller nozzle with higher pump pressure would have performed better but this still works well.

Thanks to scotty nm35 for discussion about the SSR operation. And a big thanks and +1 to Cat and Trent at Chequered Tuning, exceptional to deal with from the beginning and very pleased with the entire tune!

Hmmm using the injector ground to drive another circuit isn't the best idea. Did you check the impedance of the ssr? You may be increasing the load on the injector driver fet. Also Most pump controllers operate around the 300hz and above range. You'll need to be doing 36000rpm to get that kind of frequency using the injector drive so you may run into pump issues also.

[t_revz]

Went AEM progressive and got a filter for good measure.

483 delivered. Could have got it 10 bux cheaper buying the kit through eBay and getting filter from UK but would rather get it all from the same place.

[blk94r33]

Hmmm using the injector ground to drive another circuit isn't the best idea. Did you check the impedance of the ssr? You may be increasing the load on the injector driver fet. Also Most pump controllers operate around the 300hz and above range. You'll need to be doing 36000rpm to get that kind of frequency using the injector drive so you may run into pump issues also.

Yep, did alot of digging before I fitted anything, everyone I talked to said that the impedance of the SSR is high enough that it shouldn't damage the injector driver, and the relay has a separate power supply so it isn't loading the "positive" side of the injector circuit. Been on the car for about 3 months now, tried it for roughly 10-11 weeks with the stock ecu to make sure it wouldn't damage anything and so far all is well.

This relay can run up to 60hz, just above the peak injector frequency at 7000rpm, even at idle with the boost switch bypassed, the pump hums away steadily, and a rev gives good flow and even low duty cycle has good atomisation. Just have to keep running it and see what happens.

[JustinP]

A quick question to those who have installed a WMI (and locate the tank in the boot) - do people prefer to run the water / meth line under the car near the fuel lines, or run the lines through the cabin under the carpet?

Thanks

[t_revz]

I'm going under in convoluted tubing abd spiral wrap following the bigger battery cables I previously ran which is tied to that plastic channel I think fuel lines are in

[JustinP]

I'm going under in convoluted tubing abd spiral wrap following the bigger battery cables I previously ran which is tied to that plastic channel I think fuel lines are in

Cheers, I think I will do the same. Now to find a place to punch the cable through from inside the boot to under the car.

[t_revz]

I used an existing rubber grommet that's near the spare wheel well on rhs for battery cable, should be able to get my hose through it too

[jet_r31]

I ran under floor in convulted tubing next to the fuel lines

[Dan_J]

hey guys i've got a question.

i've seen youtube clips that the bare bone type WI (non meth) on N/A cars run a very basic setup say, tank with breather - pipe- bleed valve -pipe - connection into intake mani or intake pipe before TH/B which seems a max of $20.

whats a bare bones type set up that one can apply to a turbo RB with out getting boost leaks etc just to be introduced to WI ?

was thinking much the same to the n/a set though unsure about boost leaks :

-tank with OUT breather

- ball valve/ solenoid for when car is off

-bleed valve

-connection into cooler pipe before TH/B which just drips and is sucked in on boost

also whats wrong with plain tap water, wont do any harm right ?

[GTSBoy]

sucked in on boost

And that is why it won't work.

[Dan_J]

its wont suck in on boost, or it will suck way too much ?

can always add a washer bottle pump and turn bleed valve all the way down ?

Edited November 5, 2012 by Dan_J

[jet_r31]

Dan J..theres NO excuse in this day and age to f**k around with washer bottle motors and all this crap..its to cheap to buy

something nice..especially without a controller. The only thing you'll introduce yourself to if you start to actually use it for

its intended purpose is a blown motor....i'll bet my house on it...lol

cheers

darren

Edited November 5, 2012 by jet_r31

[Dan_J]

^ lol

also figured boost would be pushing water out with no pump

[GTScotT]

^ lol

also figured boost would be pushing water out with no pump

Make an offer on my Snow stage 2 kit. Comes with everything you will need to do it properly. Boost reference proportional adjustment (digital), bottle, lines, pump, fittings. Brand new unused.

Save yourself the hassle of using rubbish and just buy a brand new kit at a second hand price, my loss your gain.

[t_revz]

Full basic kits can be delivered for around 220

340+ for progressive.

It's not worth the effort setting up a sub-standard setup

[jet_r31]

Make an offer on my Snow stage 2 kit. Comes with everything you will need to do it properly. Boost reference proportional adjustment (digital), bottle, lines, pump, fittings. Brand new unused.

Save yourself the hassle of using rubbish and just buy a brand new kit at a second hand price, my loss your gain.

You sure you don't work for DEMTEL.....you'll be throwing in free steak knives any minute..hahaha

you selling this kit is almost turning into spam..lmfao

cheers

darren

Edited November 5, 2012 by jet_r31

[jet_r31]

Full basic kits can be delivered for around 220

340+ for progressive.

It's not worth the effort setting up a sub-standard setup

To right..and you can buy a cheap kit and upgrade that kit as you go and your budget allows....so your not buying and reselling etc..

cheers

darren.

Edited November 5, 2012 by jet_r31

[Dan_J]

fair enuff, just wanted to have a stuff around with it on the daily( same boost etc no changes, just add water), might touch WI when i start on the track car