Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My JB that I had rebuilt recently is softer than the old one, my Starlet clutch feels heavier.

Oh and after putting my big tyres on the back i'm cruising under 3000rpm :) The longer legs are awesome, I actually get boost in first gear now!

So, I went for a drive in Bobby's R34 this arvo. My mind is made up, the OS88 is one amazing bit of kit. There is a bit of a clunk between gears while doodling around which isn't a huge deal. When up it, its very smooth and effortless. I was so surprised at how user friendly it was. I jumped in the drivers seat and played with the clutch - that is NOT how I remember Steveo's OS R3C. Its actually lighter than my Nismo coppermix. It must have something to do with the OS fork which you can buy with the OS88. Yep... that's all I can say lol.

  • Like 1

I have a TS3B which is very driveable while I know people with a R3C that are very jerky.

They are cheaper as well and can handle decent power, I just snapped an input shaft with over 700hp and it hasn't skipped a beat.

I just checked and they come with a Hollinger 26 spline option as well :)

For Micky Hill

265 / 35 x 18 tyre

8000 RPM limit

3.545 diff gears

Optional Ratio 2 : 1st: 2.890 / 2nd: 1.981 / 3rd: 1.468 / 4th: 1.174 / 5th: 1.00 / 6th: 0.757 < - - those ratios

1 = 94 km/h

2 = 137 km/h

3 = 185 km/h

4 = 231 km/h

5 = 272 km/h

6 = 359 km/h

Sounds a little tall!

http://www.nismo.co.jp/omori_factory/original_menu/final_g/index.html

Nismo 3.916 final drive. Don't look at the price :D

Same ratios with the 3.916. Ohhh baby :D

1 = 85 km/h

2 = 124 km/h

3 = 168 km/h

4 = 210 km/h

5 = 246 km/h

6 = 325 km/h

http://www.nismo.co.jp/omori_factory/original_menu/final_g/index.html

Nismo 3.916 final drive. Don't look at the price :D

WHAT IN THE HELL.. you could buy like 3 diffs for that money

For Micky Hill

265 / 35 x 18 tyre

8000 RPM limit

3.545 diff gears

Optional Ratio 2 : 1st: 2.890 / 2nd: 1.981 / 3rd: 1.468 / 4th: 1.174 / 5th: 1.00 / 6th: 0.757 < - - those ratios

1 = 94 km/h

2 = 137 km/h

3 = 185 km/h

4 = 231 km/h

5 = 272 km/h

6 = 359 km/h

Sounds a little tall!

http://www.nismo.co.jp/omori_factory/original_menu/final_g/index.html

Nismo 3.916 final drive. Don't look at the price :D

Same ratios with the 3.916. Ohhh baby :D

1 = 85 km/h

2 = 124 km/h

3 = 168 km/h

4 = 210 km/h

5 = 246 km/h

6 = 325 km/h

fek me!

For Micky Hill

265 / 35 x 18 tyre

8000 RPM limit

3.545 diff gears

Optional Ratio 2 : 1st: 2.890 / 2nd: 1.981 / 3rd: 1.468 / 4th: 1.174 / 5th: 1.00 / 6th: 0.757 < - - those ratios

1 = 94 km/h

2 = 137 km/h

3 = 185 km/h

4 = 231 km/h

5 = 272 km/h

6 = 359 km/h

Sounds a little tall!

http://www.nismo.co.jp/omori_factory/original_menu/final_g/index.html

Nismo 3.916 final drive. Don't look at the price :D

Same ratios with the 3.916. Ohhh baby :D

1 = 85 km/h

2 = 124 km/h

3 = 168 km/h

4 = 210 km/h

5 = 246 km/h

6 = 325 km/h

final drive r33 is 4.11 not 3.56 unless u have r34 gtr diffs

No way. It's Nismo. Can't be :P

Like the Nismo cough Toyota cough fuel pump lol

final drive r33 is 4.11 not 3.56 unless u have r34 gtr diffs

He's talking about my R34 with 3.545s

And to rub salt in, they are probably just standard gears from some 4wd van or something lol

I know the 3.9s are available in a auto rear wheel drive R200 diff from some thing just can't for the life of me remember what, we looked in to it for the BSM car while it was still in IP

For Micky Hill

265 / 35 x 18 tyre

8000 RPM limit

3.545 diff gears

Optional Ratio 2 : 1st: 2.890 / 2nd: 1.981 / 3rd: 1.468 / 4th: 1.174 / 5th: 1.00 / 6th: 0.757 < - - those ratios

1 = 94 km/h

2 = 137 km/h

3 = 185 km/h

4 = 231 km/h

5 = 272 km/h

6 = 359 km/h

Sounds a little tall!

http://www.nismo.co.jp/omori_factory/original_menu/final_g/index.html

Nismo 3.916 final drive. Don't look at the price :D

Same ratios with the 3.916. Ohhh baby :D

1 = 85 km/h

2 = 124 km/h

3 = 168 km/h

4 = 210 km/h

5 = 246 km/h

6 = 325 km/h

Thanks for that, a bit tall I thinks, may have to put one of the 4.11 sets I have in it, which is good cause now I can just drop the spare R32 rear diff ( late model big shaft one ) straight in :)

For shits and giggles do it with 275/35/19s lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...