Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Piggaz, just admiring your work so far.

Just wondering how much of that heat wrap you used on the manifold.

Looks like 1" ....around 70-80 meters??

I was looking at heatshield inferno stuff, what sort is yours?

Nice downpipe too!

cheers

Hey mate.

I used the DEI titanium 1 inch. Two rolls would do it, I messed up and my first runner I cut it too short. In the end I bought three rolls (50 foot) but only used 2 1/3rd or so. Lesson learnt, don't cut it, haha. I did wrap it quite "tight", so I overlapped it more than I should/could have. It took me about 7 hours to do all up but I was being super super fussy. I grabbed 100 foot of the 2 inch for the dump and gate lines. That should be enough hopefully.

Hey mate.

I used the DEI titanium 1 inch. Two rolls would do it, I messed up and my first runner I cut it too short. In the end I bought three rolls (50 foot) but only used 2 1/3rd or so. Lesson learnt, don't cut it, haha. I did wrap it quite "tight", so I overlapped it more than I should/could have. It took me about 7 hours to do all up but I was being super super fussy. I grabbed 100 foot of the 2 inch for the dump and gate lines. That should be enough hopefully.

Thanks for the info, I looked at that stuff too and all the "should I shouldn't I wrap arguments" around the blogs. Some experts are dead against it but at the end of the day the hotter and faster it hits the turbine wheel the better plus a bit cooler in the engine bay.

I went and bought an EFR8374 IWG .92 and will put a 3.5" downpipe ( cat back is 90mm ) which I will wrap in that inferno stuff as well.

7 hours is a long time I guess you did it in stages with a mask I hope, god know what it does to ones lungs.

Was thinking of a flexible joint also. Not sure where you got yours but i have been getting pretty much everything from this site in the US apart from the turbo and manifold.

http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/ 3 1/2 pipe bends/transition for the dump and hoses etc etc great site fast and reasonable freight.

Bought a PTP turbo blanket of this outfit http://ptpturboblankets.com/EFR-Turbo-Blanket.html hope it hangs together.

Anyway looking forward to your progress and results

Cheers

Mike

Thanks for the info, I looked at that stuff too and all the "should I shouldn't I wrap arguments" around the blogs. Some experts are dead against it but at the end of the day the hotter and faster it hits the turbine wheel the better plus a bit cooler in the engine bay.

I went and bought an EFR8374 IWG .92 and will put a 3.5" downpipe ( cat back is 90mm ) which I will wrap in that inferno stuff as well.

7 hours is a long time I guess you did it in stages with a mask I hope, god know what it does to ones lungs.

Was thinking of a flexible joint also. Not sure where you got yours but i have been getting pretty much everything from this site in the US apart from the turbo and manifold.

http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/ 3 1/2 pipe bends/transition for the dump and hoses etc etc great site fast and reasonable freight.

Bought a PTP turbo blanket of this outfit http://ptpturboblankets.com/EFR-Turbo-Blanket.html hope it hangs together.

Anyway looking forward to your progress and results

Cheers

Mike

That DEI wrap is not like your conventional "fibreglass" style wrap. I did the whole of my manifold with no itch or glass in fingers. It's like wrapping with cotton in that regard. Absolutely fantastic!

My Flexi I got from summit racing. http://m.summitracing.com/search/product-line/vibrant-performance-turboflex-couplings

They had them in stock and only took 5 or 6 days from order to having it in my hands. Every bloke that is running I single I asked if they were running a Flexi in the dump and no one is. It definitely can't hurt, the engine does move around a fair bit.

  • Like 1

That DEI wrap is not like your conventional "fibreglass" style wrap. I did the whole of my manifold with no itch or glass in fingers. It's like wrapping with cotton in that regard. Absolutely fantastic!

Good to know. I was dreading wrapping my pipes for this exact reason. Will look into this product. Thanks

I'd like to reserve my spot for a ride. 12kg (or was it 10kg?) springs + OS88.

14 front

9 rear

Not yet Pete. Hopefully have another chip at it this weekend. It isn't in a "shop" as such.

In other news, my second gate is in the post. Woo!

Coming soon.....We will be on the job again this weekend hopefully! Should have the gate lines ran and plumbed into the dump... If not we will drink bulk piss and eat 800g steaks with all the trimmings to celebrate regardless of how far we get!

Skidz?

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...

For the sake of an update... An update.

Gates are on. Gate waste pipes are done for the most part. I put an 18.85 psi Spring combination in, mostly due to peer pressure (looking at you Micko)!! I was thinking 17.45.

Hypertune are doing some coolers on an R35 ATM and should be done hopefully next week. When ever it's done, I'm going in. That will be to fit up the cooler (no stock brackets line up anymore) and turbo to plenum piping done. Wiggins clamps (blown cooler pipes will be a distant memory) will be used on all joins apart from where it meets the manifold. I am not pulling that Nismo plenum off in the car. It's 15 times more painful to pull off than a stock one. If ever the motor is out, I'll put one on then.

Surge tank design is pretty much confirmed.

Really, the only thing missing from the puzzle is injectors but with the dollar, I'm putting off that purchase till when I need them.

The other week Reaper was around with his 8374 snailed NUR. It should go damn well on the stroker! Also, another mate is putting one on a 3.0 so it should make for a decent comparison.

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was using the wiring diagram I have So 12.74V is coming into the rear Fuel Pump relay as I measured.  When I turn the key to ON im getting 0.6V to the Fuel Pump plug; which i assume is backfeed voltage and doesnt include the 12V from ignition power.  The rear relay is working and being triggered.  From the diagram I clearly see the rear relay 80 = Rear Relay going into the Body/H loom (R-27) 27 = Fuel Pump plug going into the Body/H loom (T-20) 40 = Short Connector (R-27) I'm reading 12.74V on the blue/black wire which is the power for the Fuel Pump   From this diagram I can see the Ignition relay goes into the front and up to the ignition  2 = Fuel Pump Relay <1M> (R-27) 37 = ING Relay <1M> I started from the pump using this reference Which the way I read it (referencing Nissan wiring color codes) is: Pin Wire Color Function 1 B/P (Black/Pink) Ground 2 L/W (Blue/White)        ECU Trigger 3 SB (Sky Blue) Fuel Pump 5 L/B (Blue/Black) 12V Constant Tested SB to SB on Fuel Pump for continuity - confirmed Tested negative on Fuel Pump to 12V battery and L/B - confirmed 12V Pulled the relay putting 12V between Pin 1 & 2 and testing continuity on Pin 3 & 4 - confirmed relay   So that has me looking at this part of the circuit to understand whats happening here...and im still confused. From best I can tell; the disconnect is back to my previous diagram; between Ignition Relay and Fuel Pump Relay...which yet again; afaik is where the immobiliser should.    Thats what I was trying to explain to GTSboy; im not trying to fix it myself; yet I seem to have to get a Masters in Electrical Engineering (while im busy doing my actual job of DevOps & Cloud Engineering) somehow.  I just wanted more expert opinions; or more so that what I tested is correct and proves it to something around that area; to go back to the alarm tech (for a 3rd time) that he needs to fix it. He keeps telling me its not the alarm. He lives on the complete other side of the city so i understand not wanting to make a trip but as I said before if its the alarm it should be up to him to fix it. But he's adament its not; even though I pointed out the FP was immobilised through the original alarm. To my mind; it seems that the ECU is sending the signal; but the ignition is not getting 12V down the line.       
    • Maybe also really stiffly sprung track cars. Get the inside wheel up in a corner and all the fun stops. Also me sometimes (rarely) when I have to stand on the brake to convince the diff to drive the wheel that is still on the ground when I'm trying to diagonally get over severe driveway entrance, etc.
    • I feel like I'm missing something. You had an authorised installer come out and install a new alarm. Post install the car doesn't start, and you aren't getting the installer back to fix what they did wrong?
    • So either way it is gearbox out and look what is wrong?  I know about the input shaft bearing. Even before swap/new clutch the it sounded exactly like this: So is that inout shaft bearing or the other was installed backwards?  And can some please tell me the part number for that input shaft bearing? The gearbox is small box from R34 N/A and number is FS5W71C. Thank you  
    • I am yet to see anyone ever regret a quaife or helical. ...other than drifting/skidpan duties. I kind of want to upgrade my factory helical with a Quaife (but really it's not ultimately that different, and is a MASSIVE UNDERTAKING), that's how good the hype is about them, that I want to try them 'just to see'  
×
×
  • Create New...