Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nissan-Skyline-crank-collar-RB20det-RB25det-RB26dett-/280849305653?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4163ec5035

Anybody know of or has tried these crank collars? They are half the price of the spool ones, but anything that's super cheap usually means that it's cheap for a reason. In reality, the manufacturing cost of these are pretty low i'd guess. So they could be just making less money.

I dunno, anybody?

Doesnt say what its made of nor does it state the clearance. For 25 bucks more get a known one from a local supplier. It may be quality but who will risk it and try one?

It says its made of 4140 high tensile steel, judging by all the positive ebay feedback you'd think it was a well made product.

I am sure the one in the link will be fine..... or you could buy mine which I know to be fine! They are made to the same dimensions as the Jun collar (43.7mm on the round 40.7mm on the flats) as are most crank collars sold. There is no body of solid evidence as yet that bigger (smaller clearance) is better - or everyone would be making them bigger. I offer free postage as well

Yes I bought one of these from this guy. The collar is very good and delivery was quick. My machining guy asked where I got it from because it was better than the ones he had been using.

Also when I bought it I did some research on these items. I found an Australian engine parts / engine building company selling the same items for $150. I can't remember which company it was but it seemed reputable.

I also bought a couple of oil restrictors from this same eBay guy, one had a bit of a burr on it which I needed to clean up but other than that they were OK.

Hi All,

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nissan-Skyline-crank-collar-RB20det-RB25det-RB26dett-/280849305653?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4163ec5035

Anybody know of or has tried these crank collars? They are half the price of the spool ones, but anything that's super cheap usually means that it's cheap for a reason. In reality, the manufacturing cost of these are pretty low i'd guess. So they could be just making less money.

I dunno, anybody?

Actually buy one of these and support a fellow SAU member :P

Good price too.

I am sure the one in the link will be fine..... or you could buy mine which I know to be fine! They are made to the same dimensions as the Jun collar (43.7mm on the round 40.7mm on the flats) as are most crank collars sold. There is no body of solid evidence as yet that bigger (smaller clearance) is better - or everyone would be making them bigger. I offer free postage as well

There is no body of solid evidence as yet that bigger (smaller clearance) is better - or everyone would be making them bigger.

I disagree. Running too much clearance between the collar and the pump gear is BAD! Very BAD!

It means your still only driving the gear on one side of the flats, it may infact be more of the gear, but its still only on one side. Too much play also causes the inner gear to chatter away inside the pump housing causing the pump to fail.

The guys in the US and Canada are all over this issue.

We've never needed to go anywhere else but Chilton Engineering

Tighe make the collar and Chilton shrink them to the crank with precision. Supplied and fitted for under $250

Don't know why anybody would buy a collar that has grub screws. Seems like a dodgey way to secure it. Like the shift knobs always coming loose

We've never needed to go anywhere else but Chilton Engineering

Tighe make the collar and Chilton shrink them to the crank with precision. Supplied and fitted for under $250

Don't know why anybody would buy a collar that has grub screws. Seems like a dodgey way to secure it. Like the shift knobs always coming loose

But i like pulling my knob off ....

We've never needed to go anywhere else but Chilton Engineering

Tighe make the collar and Chilton shrink them to the crank with precision. Supplied and fitted for under $250

Don't know why anybody would buy a collar that has grub screws. Seems like a dodgey way to secure it. Like the shift knobs always coming loose

The grub screws are a belt and braces approach. Collar requires the crank to be machined to provide a shrink fit for the collar - grub screws are an extra insurance.

The grub screws are a belt and braces approach. Collar requires the crank to be machined to provide a shrink fit for the collar - grub screws are an extra insurance.

Yeah I know how they work, I'm just saying that it's a rather poor idea IMO. If it is correctly machined and shrunk fit then it will never need grub screws. They have just copied the JUN collar I imagine

Yeah I know how they work, I'm just saying that it's a rather poor idea IMO. If it is correctly machined and shrunk fit then it will never need grub screws. They have just copied the JUN collar I imagine

If you think its a poor idea simply throw away the grub screws. The security of the shrink fit depends on the quality of the machinist not the collar.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah good luck out there! Will be good to see a mighty GTST going harder than the GTRs
    • i will be there 😁
    • Hello!  i just finished manual swaping my r34 skyline with a r33 rb20de box(RB71C)box  When the car is running it squeaks crazy loud and it was smoking from the gearbox area. The gearbox is fine it was tested. The clutch slave cylinder seems like it doesn't fully releases the clutch. I want to ask if this noise is from the throw out bearing or could it be the clutch assembly or disk att.xFliq87Gzw6kImKBVqDebXkj0fBqymk0JaYeP3_3SlM.mp4
    • A few small updates since the previous post and lessons. I decided to do a little interior light upgrade on the 110. I quite like the iilumo items, even if they're a bit of a premium over other brands. You'll also note the Stedi Fogs, that will go into the S15 fog lights as I needed to match the bulbs since I got the new ones earlier. I hope they fit as the body is quite a bit longer than your normal bulb.  Annoyingly, I managed to trip the fuse, which normally wouldn't be an issue until I located the fuse. I can't say I've ever come across this. I had lucked out that someone nearby had a spare, but oddly enough Toyota dealerships seem to keep this in stock. I ordered some to keep in my stash and as luck would have it, someone else nearby tripped the same fuse so I passed on the favour.  I also did a little service on the 110 ahead of some additional work coming up. It's been annoying that Goleby's stopped carrying this particular HKS filter for the 110, so now I need to keep them on order from Japan. I also took the opportunity to install a bash plate and number plate riser. The plate riser is such a cheap but nice fix to help really tidy up the car. I'm tempted to now also replace my headlights, on this car. Both items were from Project Aero.    I also needed to replace the rear tyres on the 110, and after trying to get it aligned learnt that I need to replace some bushes in the front end, so that's next.  Closing out this update with a nicer picture as always! 
    • Yeah mate, never miss it.
×
×
  • Create New...