Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 60
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Buy a stock neo and don't touch anything on it, as soon as you open it you've made it worse.

add a highflow, injectors, afm, ecu, clutch, tyres and you are back about $6k already and this will be enough to kill yourself quite easily, also if you don't open it and tune it correctly it should last forever with ~260-280kw

Edited by Rolls

stick the money in the bank as you go instead and let it earn interest. IF you still want to do up a turbo car after you get off your P's then you have the money there to do it or you can put that money to use some other way if your mind has changed.

someone once gave me some good advice, buy the cheapest car your ego will let you. the more expensive it is the worse it is if you wreck it or parts break.

+1

Agree with the second part 100%

Only wish I'd listened to this when I was 18.

The fact that he can run a very reliable and safe 330rwkw+ all day every day with nothing but injectors, fuel pump, exhaust, computer and a set of turbos or a single on it where as the Neo would be a ticking time bomb at those power levels on an unopened motor..

Were you born yesterday or something??

I'd actually say the 26 is more of a time bomb over the NEO. Especially the R32 RB26.

Not to mention the fact that there is more stuffing around to fit an RB26 into a RWD car.

Were you born yesterday or something??

I'd actually say the 26 is more of a time bomb over the NEO. Especially the R32 RB26.

Not to mention the fact that there is more stuffing around to fit an RB26 into a RWD car.

32 is only a problem because of the crank collar/oil pump issue and assuming he is building the car how hard is it to put a crank collar on with the motor out..

Yes there is stuffing around with the 26 into RWD but after all the guy wants to "build" a motor/car, the more stuffing around the better i say, how else are you going to learn about your car

And the reason to that quote was the fact that I see mates running roughly 300 - 340kw at all 4 wheels on unopened 26's, none have gone bang yet. My other mates 25 just blew a gasket the other week at 270rwkw, sh*t example to be singling out one car but what im trying to get to i havn't seen many unopened RB25's do the numbers and LAST like a 26 does

Edited by nomnomv8

There's PLENTY of unopened 25's on here making much much more than 300rwkw and have been for awhile now. Simon's comes to mind, as does Methz. There's others but I can't remember everyone's name. On the other hand, there are also plenty that have gone bang with less power.

There's PLENTY of unopened 25's on here making much much more than 300rwkw and have been for awhile now. Simon's comes to mind, as does Methz. There's others but I can't remember everyone's name. On the other hand, there are also plenty that have gone bang with less power.

There is a whole thread on it... 25's....26's.... they will all last if treated properly.... As soon as you "build" an engine, it will only last as long as the builder is capable of making it last :P

There is a whole thread on it... 25's....26's.... they will all last if treated properly.... As soon as you "build" an engine, it will only last as long as the builder is capable of making it last :P

exactly, I treat most built engines as less reliable than an unopened nissan motor, unless you go to one of maybe 2-3 builders that know what they are doing.

Besides which, the Neo in particular is pretty much the same as a 26 below the waterline. Same rods as 26, shorter stroke so a little less force on the rod bolts. So a Neo should be a better bet than a normal 25 on that basis as well.

One way to look at it! :D

exactly, I treat most built engines as less reliable than an unopened nissan motor, unless you go to one of maybe 2-3 builders that know what they are doing.

Especially if it is a DIY job, WHICH i am assuming this thread was aiming at? If you were to pay a builder to do it i would assume the OP would just save over the next few years as has been suggested and just get it done.....

There's PLENTY of unopened 25's on here making much much more than 300rwkw and have been for awhile now.

Not many see regular circuit though making legit 300rwkw+ (maybe 1-2 days per year and then general street duties). Then add in the couple thus far that have died as well, and it's not a "safe" aim IMO.

A RB26 isn't a 'mystical' beast either and eventually when circuit raced, will get tired when making over 300-330rwkw like others have before them. If people think a 15YO RB26 will last a few years of track work @ that power and not need a rebuild they are really hoping for the best case scenario, because realistically it is unlikely in most cases.

280-300rwkw for both 25/26, keeping boost to 20psi or less on unopened motors that see the track 8+ times a year, seems to be the region that will see them live for more than 1-2 seasons.

Aside from what everyone has already said about RB25/26's if you have a spare 70 grand in the bank buy a 26B =) 500hp @ 13,000 rev's NA yewwwww

But this is who you should listen to.

Not many see regular circuit though making legit 300rwkw+ (maybe 1-2 days per year and then general street duties). Then add in the couple thus far that have died as well, and it's not a "safe" aim IMO.

A RB26 isn't a 'mystical' beast either and eventually when circuit raced, will get tired when making over 300-330rwkw like others have before them. If people think a 15YO RB26 will last a few years of track work @ that power and not need a rebuild they are really hoping for the best case scenario, because realistically it is unlikely in most cases.

280-300rwkw for both 25/26, keeping boost to 20psi or less on unopened motors that see the track 8+ times a year, seems to be the region that will see them live for more than 1-2 seasons.

Edited by 51NNA

Aside from what everyone has already said about RB25/26's if you have a spare 70 grand in the bank buy a 26B =) 500hp @ 13,000 rev's NA yewwwww

But this is who you should listen to.

Not worth it, too many head gaskets to replace! :P

As mentioned, a stock rb25det neo woth some upgrades will get you moving along nicely and you shouldn't throw yourself in the deep end with regards to power. Going from a piddly NA on the street to something with 200+kw and not knowing how to control it is a sure way to wrecking something or someone.

I'd say VQ35HR, then TT (with 2 x 2860).

It will take 50kg out of the front of the car, have more power and torque and last longer. But you'll have to build it first.

I don't see much between a Neo and a RB26 for power/longevity. I'd take a stock NEO for the money with GT30 (0.86) ~280rwkw easy. Once you get over 200rwkw/tonne you're getting into serious grip/chassis issues.

300kw-320rwkw easy??? spent about 25k on performance parts an labour to get 300kw atw. Prob cheaper if u find a happy dyno or dont tie the car down real tight to allow it to ride up, from wot i've been told it can make the exact same dyno read about 50-80hp different, depending on how u strap it down. As for the longivity of an engine's life (built or unopened) people usually only seem to quote a certain amount of years/months which isnt really informative, amount of track time, km since rebuilt, %of time driving the car spirited (or over 5-6k rpm) would be more informaitive. as a car that only does 3000km a year an 1 track day, an gets babied, is a lot different to a car that does 20,000km a year a 4 or 5 trackdays a year an gets thrashed every time it gets drivin.

Edited by Country Cruzin

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The car/ECU will have all the sensor that it needs and expect to have. I think i do not have to explain to you how the Link is way better specialy if you have swapped engine   I just do not want to deal with any "problems" cuz i have only Nistune which i learned is not that great and in my case cant even deal with that speed problem (Link can) And of course it will be way more easier to tune and diagnose and safe. And for the ECU/speed problem...i dont know.
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune: Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune:     Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • The fancy pants red shock tower brace is finally incoming from MX5 Mania, getting it shipped from 'Merica has been a long and problematic process, and GWR, the 'Merican supplier will not ship directly to consumers outside of the US, Mania basically had to order a heap of them, the colour choice was silver, or red, and we all know anything red adds 5 killerwasps of dynotorques..... Whilst it does fit over a 2.5, and I've seen a few photos and videos of it being installed and fitting, google also says it might get real close to the FAB9 intake front runner, people in the US says it does fit with the FAB9 intake, except for one person who said it slightly touched.......so there is that.....LOL..... As it seems that I am the first in AU to have this combination of parts there's no local knowledge about fitment, so I'm just a willing guinea pig in this endeavour, I'll cross my fingers and toes and hope for the best In other news, I ordered stuff from China  on the same day I ordered the 23° silicone bend from Victoria, the stuff from China arrived a day ago, the 23° silicone bend is still travelling around Australia thanks to Australia Post, and "may" be here next week
    • Very good news...I contacted Racebox about it last night. My car is a 2016 so remains to be seen if it is compatible, requires a TCU swap, or is impossible.
×
×
  • Create New...