Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Has anyone used two oil sandwich plates before (on top of the stock oil warmer / cooler) and has it caused any clearance issues with the fitment of the oil filter? My skyline is in a million pieces (engine out) at the moment so I can't have a look and estimate the clearance.

I know it's not ideal using two as its just another point of failure / leaks, but it will make my life easier :P

Cheers

Justin

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/402155-using-two-oil-sandwich-plates/
Share on other sites

No I mean two sandwich plates in addition to the stock oil warmer / cooler. I have an oil cooler to install with a built in thermostat in the sandwich plate, so it doesn't have room for the 1/8" NPT sensor holes. I need to install an oil pressure sensor and will possibly install another oil temp sensor down the track so i will need a second sandwich plate with the sensor holes.

I realise I could get rid of the factory oil pressure sensor and install the new one there, but then I would need to find a BPT to NPT adapter to fit it, and the (crap) factory oil pressure gauge would stop working, which whilst pretty much useless would annoy me to not have it working. I think you can get a BPT adapter with a tap for both a BPT and NPT sensor, but I havent been able to find one anywhere.

Ok, most common thing to do is get a relocator kit. Then the oil filter relo plate has the bungs u require

That is the third and probably smartest option :) - but if I did want to do go with the 2 sandwich plates do you think I would have a clearance issue between the oil filter and the drivers side wheel arch? As my engine in not in the car I cant visualise it.

I am just looking the oil filter now and I do use the smaller R34 type ones, so I am pretty sure there will be plenty of room.

Can't you just drill and tap some holes in the thermo sandwich plate?

I thought of that but there is only a small area where that might be possible, and its kinda recessed and on an angle:

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/1597/Mocal_Sandwich_Plate

Not sure it how well it would work.

I use two on my boat.

one for oil supply from dry sump + sensors

one mocal sandwich plate for thermostat - attached to heat exchanger

No dramas in terms of "its just another point of failure / leaks"

Not sure on clearance issues tho...

post-29626-0-81291700-1339281354_thumb.jpg

I use two on my boat.

one for oil supply from dry sump + sensors

one mocal sandwich plate for thermostat - attached to heat exchanger

No dramas in terms of "its just another point of failure / leaks"

Not sure on clearance issues tho...

Using an RB25 in a boat = awesome! :P

I'm going to order one of the Just Jap items linked to above, I think clearance will be fine.

Thanks everybody.

  • 3 years later...

Hi all, I've just ordered a Driftworks oil cooler kit with the Mocal thermostatic sandwich plate, which doesn't have sensor points.

I have an existing sandwich plate for Defi sensors and I'm wondering if I can run both at the same time? The car is an R34 GTT with the Neo engine and standard small Ryco Z422 filter.

The other option is to add an extender piece (?) between the oil cooler sandwich plate and the braided line where you can hook the sensors but I'm not sure if such a part exists?

1/8 npt into 1/8 bpt won't seal?

NOPE

the threads are incompatible, but they are close enough that you can force it in. however that means you have over stressed some of the threads and it could develop a leak at any time. Which is probably a bad idea if you use it where you care about the quality of the seal, for example.. in a pressurised oil feed!

to answer the original question, in a GTT I don't see how clearance could be an issue. I reckon you could stack 5 or 6 sandwich plates before you have any issues.. there's a ton of room!

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
    • Do you have some data like fuel pressure? It's really hard to say if you're still fighting a fuel system issue at this point. Could be something weird like the FPCM dipping out.
    • Yeah in that case, pulling the dent out. Event a very slight dent can create a lot of work filler-wise and there is a strong chance the panel won't be the factory shape when you are done (as the dent will result in a new high point created somewhere, then everything is brought up to that new high point... but the panel shouldn't be that high if that makes sense).  So you've filled and primed the panel and it is flat, why would you go back and remove the primer and add more filler? 
    • Something else I have been faffing with while the car was off the road is making the AC work. Assuming the car isn't at a thermal limit the idea of having AC while waiting in line to go on track sounds delightful. I have actually been lugging around the weight of the entire system since 2018 when the RB25NEO went in without it working at all.  The main reason was in the first few events before I got around to re-gassing it the rubber hose that runs under the manifold had the factory heat wrap/sleeve fail resulting in this: ~2 years ago I purchased a complete used R32 AC line set but when I finally went to install it the line i needed was different where the expansion section is I found a local place that was able to replace the rubber section and re-crimp. They also added some modern heat sleeve to the hose Tight fit but fingers crossed this is the last physical piece of the puzzle needed
×
×
  • Create New...