Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Do you mean the pulley's are not at the correct offset for the pump?

Or the V grooves have incorrect angles, or are to shallow or deep?

More info please.

The offset was off using a 25 pump and bracket on a 30.

Oh so you mean you used a balancer that is designed as a factory fitment but put it in an application that it was unintended for?

Is anyone having a problem with a 25 balancer on an RB25 or a 26 balancer on an RB26?

Is anyone having a problem with a 25 balancer on an RB25 or a 26 balancer on an RB26?

I'm having a problem using a 26 balancer with 26 power steerin pump and bracket on a 2630. Bear in mind this problem did not exist when using the ATI. Mark Berry had same problem.

Piggaz also was having same issue which I think was 33 balancer on RB26 (2.8) with correct power steering pump etc. No prob prior to fitment either. Correct Paul?

Oh so you mean you used a balancer that is designed as a factory fitment but put it in an application that it was unintended for?

Is anyone having a problem with a 25 balancer on an RB25 or a 26 balancer on an RB26?

I was having a few issues with this flicking off PS belt thingo. We made sure everything was "square", IE the PS pump/bracket was spot on and I also fitted the idler pulley thing for the belt. Problem went away. Car will be back on the road soon so I'll be able to report back.

If the pulley is underdriven u need a smaller belt. Even my ATI spat a belt. I put a smaller belt on one that only just went on with ps fully loosened off and no probes now. try get as close to the crank as u can that's what I think.

If the pulley is underdriven u need a smaller belt. Even my ATI spat a belt. I put a smaller belt on one that only just went on with ps fully loosened off and no probes now. try get as close to the crank as u can that's what I think.

They're the same size as standard.

Were you using a 25 balancer or a 30 balancer?

I believe it was a 30 one.

But don't quote me on that.

I was pissed it happened, BUT, these things happen when you are using different parts from 3 different engines, I like to call it teething problems.

I'm using a ross rb25 balancer with rb25 pump with their idler pulley kit and aligning the pump as per Ross's instructions and still throwing belts. it was never a problem before the new balancer so there must be something going on

I'm using a ross rb25 balancer with rb25 pump with their idler pulley kit and aligning the pump as per Ross's instructions and still throwing belts. it was never a problem before the new balancer so there must be something going on

Get a straight edge and run it from the balancer to the PS, I found the difference to be about 5mm, we drilled out the bracket so the whole PS assembly could move forward 5mm, the job took a couple of hours to do but now the 2 pulleys align perfectly.

And it was only the PS that was causing issues, the AC and ALT are fine.

Give ROSS a call and see what they say, its a common problem, albeit a easy fix if you modify the bracket.

I'm using a ross rb25 balancer with rb25 pump with their idler pulley kit and aligning the pump as per Ross's instructions and still throwing belts. it was never a problem before the new balancer so there must be something going on

Something is really wrong if your throwing belts with the idler pulley kit...

More elaboration, I can confirm that on the track I failed to spit the powersteering belt again. Mine is rb25, limiter 7700, to recap on the mods I did to help, I machined front lip of p/s section down to 1mm over belt height, and beadblasted all the anodising off the belt grooves, and refitted using a new gates racing belt. Time will tell if its a confirmed win

That's good news Amon.

I asked Ross some months back if he thought it could be the coating - as he insisted there was no difference (measured up) between the ATI and the ROSS. I wonder if perhaps the anodising is somehow making it "grip up" ?

Mine already had been machined down from Ross - this is something they had already struck apparently. Interesting that yours which I assume is not as old as mine, still had the lip...

Yeah iv only had mine since the start of this thread. could of been old stock... I recon the anodising makes the belt intermittantly slip and grab and create a flicking of the belt. Might be wrong. whereas the blasted pulley is very grippy and consistent

  • 2 weeks later...

I am coming down to the nit and gritty part of my build, and saving the power steering belt issue for last. I have run a dry sump oil system on my RB26/30 build and I cannot risk having this issue, so I am going to correct/fix the issue first, before it even becomes a problem. (save the "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" comments please). I don't want to have a catastrophic engine failure due to an f**king power steering belt.

I am running my 2 year old RB26 Ross Dampener on my RB26/30 build, don't see a problem using it. I am either looking into the Ross Idler Kit, or this other kit they have.

http://blog.rossperformanceparts.com/category/engine-protection-kits/nissan-rb26/

Anyone running a dry sump have experience with this type of set-up? Anyone see any issues running this kit? Any input would be greatly appreciated.....

If not, then just to avoid the whole issue, I am gonna run a Volvo Electric Power steering pump.......

I've done a couple of HTD driven steering pumps with Ross

Never had a single drama with them. Slows the steering pump to 50% (or whatever speed you choose to gear it) perfect drive and never had a belt come off. After we fitted the first kit and made some recommendations to Ross I believe he has refined the setup and is supplying some specific fittings and spacers that are needed now.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, the trouble with that ^^ is: The configuration shown is absolutely a 1-way, not a 1.5-way. There is no way that a 1.5-way can be said to offer LSD action only on acceleration. If Nismo cannot get that right, then it is impossible to believe their documentation. That ^ is not a 1.5 way setup. That is a 1-way.   And so now I have allowed all doubts to flourish and have gone back to look at the MotoIQ video. I originally made the mistake of believing him when he said "this is a 1.5-way" at the ~6:10 mark. Because what he did was take the gear assembly out of the 2-way opening and just rotate it one place to the left to drop it into the 1-way opening. When he dropped it in there, the cam was "backwards" compared to the correct orientation shown in all other photos of that config. The flat shold have been facing the 1° ramp side of the opening, not the 55° ramp side. And I thought, "gee that's cute", but I was concerned at the time, when he put the other ring back on, that the gap between the rings looked like it was wider then in the 2-way config. And then I said a lot of things in my long post on Tuesday that could only make sense if the guy from MotoIQ was correct about what he'd done. BUT... I have now done my homework. I grabbed a frame of the video with the 2-way config, and then grabbed another with the "1.5-way" config, snipped out the cam and opening of that frame and just pasted it direct on top of the 2-way config. I scaled it so that the triangular opening was almost exactly the same height in both. AND.... the gap between the plates is wider with the cam installed in the triangualr opening backwards. That is.... it cannot go together that way. There would be massive force on the plates all the time, if you could even reassemble it.  So, My statement on the matter? The Nismo diff is actually only a 2-way and 1-way. There is no 1.5-way option in it, regardless of what they say. Here's a photo of a real 1.5-way ramp opening from Cusco (along with the 1 way option). And the full set of 1 through 2 way options from their racing diff, which is not same-same as what we'd typically be using, but...the cams work the same. A little blurry, but it comes from this Cusco doc, which is quite helpful. AND.... Cusco do in fact do what I suggested would be sensible, which is to have rings that do 1 and 1.5, and 1.5 and 2. Separately.  
    • Welcome Adam. Car looks great!
    • "With a 1.5-WAY, the LSD is effective only during acceleration."
    • Well it wasn't as easy as I thought.... and it also wasn't in my original manual which I did end up finding. They discuss the process in the Nismo catalogue though and it requires slight machining. Page 145.  NISMO PARTS CATALOGUE 2020
    • I'm an idiot, my intercooler is rated for 1000hp. I had clicked on the wrong product. Knowing the delta P would be nice, but I'm doubtful I'll do it. Now as for an EMAP, that would be great and I'll get around to it eventually but from my findings in my last post, I'm considering a turbo swap now. 
×
×
  • Create New...