Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

That is huge, interesting. I did a conversion a few weeks back, only got a 12 odd kw increase from 348 to 360 at 19 psi. This is with all supporting mods, big exhaust, -5's, fuel system etc. Pulls like a train it's awesome and im happy but looking at some of these results it's not a big increase.

  • Replies 85
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

For those on straight e85 tunes how do you go about sourcing fuel? Do you buy it in drums or fill up jerries?

Only place I know that sells it is in Rozelle which isn't a close drive.

EDIT: Also misread that dyno chart, 370kw is crazy!

Minto united for you then freind

Minto is straight E85 not eflex?

Also, back to my earlier question about the pods. Would $200 be spent better on buying a stock airbox or a pod enclosure?

EDIT: How much e85 would you expect to go through at a track day?

Here is the latest -7 and e85 result. Std rb26 with camgears and r32 gtr airbox.. Saw no gains over 22psi..... but a decent gain from 312rwkw on pump 98.

That looks very similar to a -5 result. Interesting!

That is huge, interesting. I did a conversion a few weeks back, only got a 12 odd kw increase from 348 to 360 at 19 psi. This is with all supporting mods, big exhaust, -5's, fuel system etc. Pulls like a train it's awesome and im happy but looking at some of these results it's not a big increase.

what setup and ecu?

Best E85 servo for you would probably be newbridge rd :)

Pretty sure Newbridge Rd is just an eflex. Minto isn't too far though and it's pretty much on the way to Wakefield and Eastern Creek.

I won't get an eflex tune unless I absolutely needed one. $2k is bloody expensive!

This is the 2nd -7 + e85 50kw gain i've seen in the last 3 months, just shows that e85 is really needed in some cases to maximise the set-up potential

That first one (if it was usmair or whatever), didn't come close to the MPH to back it up, in fact the MPH showed it has zero gain, where the "dyno" said there was 40rwkw...

I'd like to see Trent's result hit the strip and pump out a MPH.

As with a few other people on here actually... It seems some have pretty "hefty" increases that seem to defy what everyone else are getting.

(not having a go at anyone here either, just wanna see more info).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
×
×
  • Create New...