Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Another strange question from me.. I have googled, and found nothing that answered my question.

I still haven't assessed if I have a high flow or not. Doesn't matter. What a mate of mine did point out, is how loud my turbo is. You can hear the whistle (duh). But, inside the car, you can hear the turbo sucking in air seriously loud. Is this normal? Do others do this? Standard, high flowed? Etc? Is it gon' die?

I did spend the last 20min odd on youtoob, and couldn't find another boat owner with the same noise.

HALP thanks.

Being thinking about something similar..

Ive got a couple questions.. Without using pods what would make induction noise louder? and Would a metal intake kit with standard air box make the induction noise louder? I would love to get a pagani huayra sound in my car lol

It's all to do with the pod, and the type of pod. Some pods have more noise associated than others - whether its because of the level of filtration, or the actual construction metal vs plastic etc) who knows, not really a point anyone would probably care to look into.

Pod - lots induction noise

airbox/enclosed pod - less induction noise

GTRs make a bit more because of the side intake.

Take it to a shop that deals with these cars everyday and ask them to drive it. Any decent shop will be happy to take 5 minutes to tell you if it's normal or not. If its super loud it's probably not normal. A bit of noise is normal when you have a pod though. Better to be safe than sorry and what harm can it do to have it checked by a professional?

in my experience a poded R33 has mega induction noise. I originally had a K&N which was incredibly loud, I changed to a HKS shroom and the noise changed a lot. much quieter.

The stock RB25 turbo makes a silly amount of noise with a pod filter. In my old R32 it was by far the loudest, The Apexi AX53B70 made next to no noise and the 3076R made more of a whistle, but nothing seems to match the stocker for sounding like a vaccume cleaner! lol

The stock RB25 turbo makes a silly amount of noise with a pod filter. In my old R32 it was by far the loudest, The Apexi AX53B70 made next to no noise and the 3076R made more of a whistle, but nothing seems to match the stocker for sounding like a vaccume cleaner! lol

Yeah i found the pod, split dump etc on my high flow was super spoolage! With a bit of Ztutututu just for Josh.............

The 3076 does spool loud followed by epic whistle and then lots of GAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAATE :woot:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...