Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Currently searching for a white vspec II and saw this one pop up this morning on carsales. Judging by location the photos were taken, appears to be from Sports Auto Group (Although shop logo has been blurred?). I'm only suspecting, previous front end hit? Bonnet does not appear to line up and painted radiator support? Curious if anyone is able to provide any insight? Thanks. 137891978.jpg137891935.jpg137891979.jpg

Hahahhahaa the panel gap professor (aka me) does not approve of those photos.

....inb4 I become an import dealer to cash in on the profits to be made from this type of exercise

From an observation of pictures, who else noticed that bolts for the driver front quarter panel have been repainted (usually the paint will fracture once you twist these bolts to take them off) ;)

Also, the passenger front quarter appears completely repainted. I noticed this from the engine bay pic.

Here's another interesting one (sold at sports auto group)

http://www.sportsautogroup.com.au/nissan/skyline/r34-gtr-vspec-3156

bkP7jFC.png

Note the KM's - 41,000

And now it's appeared for sale in Victoria, with only 29,600k on the "original 180kph speedo"

42BXydd.png

Funny that they've specifically mentioned it having the stock cluster given that most cars will still have the stock clusters, you wouldn't think they'd have any reason to say anything unless they've swapped it out.

Can't believe they get away with this stuff.

Original sale from Japan link below?????. Doesn't mention KM's though :-(

http://www.fcautosource.com/SoldListingDetail.aspx?fcauto_id=209&makemodel=1999_NISSAN_SKYLINE_GT-R

Edited by djvoodoo

Can't believe they get away with this stuff.

Original sale from Japan link below?????. Doesn't mention KM's though :-(

http://www.fcautosource.com/SoldListingDetail.aspx?fcauto_id=209&makemodel=1999_NISSAN_SKYLINE_GT-R

haha, and it has a Nismo 300km/h speedo with white face gauges there

209-DSC_0050.JPG

And a recaro drivers seat

209-DSC_0049.JPG

Saw this on Car Sales, Not a r34 but from a dealer in Sydney. What do you guys think

http://www.carsales.com.au/dealer/details/nissan-skyline-1996-14814567

Wrong dash and steering wheel

That car is legit, it's probably just been complied as a 1996 model but it is a 1995 build car. The other erroneous detail is that it isn't a Vspec as listed.

6o07pv.jpg

K's probably aren't genuine though, all that flaking paint & no floor mats, rear muffler looks like it's been painted? say it's probably had a pretty hard life at least.

That car is legit, it's probably just been complied as a 1996 model but it is a 1995 build car. The other erroneous detail is that it isn't a Vspec as listed.

6o07pv.jpg

K's probably aren't genuine though, all that flaking paint & no floor mats, rear muffler looks like it's been painted? say it's probably had a pretty hard life at least.

Well there you go, I just saw it was 1996 but no passenger airbag and wrong steering wheel. I thought SCAAMM, But yeah surely K's aren't genuine engine bay looks very average. And 20k probably wouldn't get you anything to genuine with 69,000k's

Edited by dyl33

Hahahhahaa the panel gap professor (aka me) does not approve of those photos.

....inb4 I become an import dealer to cash in on the profits to be made from this type of exercise

From an observation of pictures, who else noticed that bolts for the driver front quarter panel have been repainted (usually the paint will fracture once you twist these bolts to take them off) ;)

Also, the passenger front quarter appears completely repainted. I noticed this from the engine bay pic.

I am a noob at spotting all this - can you please shed some more light as to what the original condition/colour of the bolts are meant to be? What do you look at when a panel as been repainted (especially from photos)? Also regarding panel replacements and engine bay welds - any other key areas to look out for?

On a separate note, a good friend of mine is after an Airtek and is waiting for them to be available. He previously had a GT-A which he bought from the infamous All Imports. After I told him about this thread and the related horror stories, he took my advice and will contact Chef. :)

The bolts(At least on the rad support panel) Are meant to be zinc coated not painted. You'd look at things like that, how shiny the paint is in relation to surrounding areas, overspray. Panel gaps should be uniform and welds in the engine bay should all be spot welds. Also look out for anything that has been painted black or hit heavily with non standard sound deadening coating undercoat. I'm sure there's more but these are the types of thing I generally look out for.

Raj,

good man for referring a mate to the chef, you did a good thing!

On another note, not directly related - but i used to sell used cars 4x4's in particular and on rwc/detail the detailers used to spray the entire chassis black.. it was just to "pretty" them up, but to a smart person that's hiding potential rust/sand/salt or whatever. I was so against it and it made me feel awkward when i'd have customers ask me about why it's been painted..

Currently searching for a white vspec II and saw this one pop up this morning on carsales. Judging by location the photos were taken, appears to be from Sports Auto Group (Although shop logo has been blurred?). I'm only suspecting, previous front end hit? Bonnet does not appear to line up and painted radiator support? Curious if anyone is able to provide any insight? Thanks. 137891978.jpg137891935.jpg137891979.jpg

Hi mate... I went to Sydney last weekend to take a look at this car... its terrible.

Its had a front end hit, underneath the driver side front fender I noticed re welds, showing me it wasn't just a love tap. The steering wheel wear does not match up with the km on the dash, I expect the car has done over 150,000 km. The bonnet has cracks all over it and has been re painted. The strut tower on driver side has also been re sprayed.

Mate I would not even consider this car. I would say probably the worst car I have inspected.

Cheers mate.

Has anyone seen the Bayside Blue car they've got on carsales, with an S-Tune engine and LMGT's.

I know SAG are a 'steer clear' business but an S-tune engine has to be worth a quick squizz no?

They've also got Ferrari's and a few lamborghinis there, I wonder if they get the same treatment as their Nissans

Hi mate... I went to Sydney last weekend to take a look at this car... its terrible.

Its had a front end hit, underneath the driver side front fender I noticed re welds, showing me it wasn't just a love tap. The steering wheel wear does not match up with the km on the dash, I expect the car has done over 150,000 km. The bonnet has cracks all over it and has been re painted. The strut tower on driver side has also been re sprayed.

Mate I would not even consider this car. I would say probably the worst car I have inspected.

Cheers mate.

Now I'm curious - I thought cars that require repairs such as this were illegal to be registered on the streets (maybe Chef can clarify?). Though I bet they'll come up with some BS story that it got damaged during transport or something in Australia.

Any chance of obtaining the VIN and possible searches via auction papers on it's grade? I'm sure the ACCC and other entities would be interested in this.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...