Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Holy shit. That r34 on the last page, dodgy as f**k.

Props to you guys informing everyone on this kinda stuff.

Is it even possible to obtain auction papers? Because it looks like its the only way to confirm recent imports true odo readings.

Sure you can. Buy the car yourself in Japan through some auction service like the smart people do.

You'll get to see the auction sheet.

If you want you can even PM me and I'll translate it.

If a car has its proper shaken history included it is difficult to falsify odo readings in Japan now because as was said earlier the export certificate will reflect that.

All the clocking is happening on the other end now.

Edited by Matvei27

I haven't read the whole thread but has anyone considered writing something to their local member of parliament / minister for transport to have a certified copy of the original deregistration certificate included during the import process?

Maybe something legallly can be put in place so this nonsense stops.

What benefit would the government gain from doing this? If it doesn't make them money, why would they help?

We're talking about a very small % of affected cars (not even considering the fact that it's an import)

Unfortunately I dont think it will do much

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/guildford/cars-vans-utes/nissan-skyline-r34-v-spec-1999-real-collection-condition-/1081528681

Has anyone seen this car? What got my attention is the pictures used are all from the global auto japan website, EXCEPT the engine bay pic

http://www.global-auto.ne.jp/stock/public_stock_detail.php?entry=0315.dat&model=BNR34

so if its the same car, it lost its S1 engine on its way down under?

  • Like 2

I haven't read the whole thread but has anyone considered writing something to their local member of parliament / minister for transport to have a certified copy of the original deregistration certificate included during the import process?

Maybe something legallly can be put in place so this nonsense stops.

I think it is more up to us, the car enthusiasts to do what we can to stop this. After all it is all of us who get affected by these cars as they get released into our close nit market. None of us want to be buying anything like this so we have to do what we can to make sure no one does.

The more awareness we can provide to the community and potential owners about places like Edward Lees, the more value the skyline / import community has!

  • 6 months later...

More pics of that particular car, many thanks to a SAU member. As you may already know, this car has had its odometer wound back. However, it did receive a Grade 4 when it passed though auction. Looking at the pics, its absolutely shocking to see how that happened! A word of warning, DONT take auction gradings to be gospel. I've seen this happen so many times but was able to dodge an expensive bullet every single time thanks to my importer!

3UHKWoG.jpg

WY5Fkb0.jpg

JBJHsG0.jpg

proJrNT.jpg

ke1OA7E.jpg

WiXtZHL.jpg

f3x8j2u.jpg

r1NYShj.jpg

BWT2t2l.jpg

JFB3Uw7.jpg

bKxRFRs.jpg

G9lbIRK.jpg

t8SJ12o.jpg

lakqUfE.jpg

Ist331j.jpg

MpQHAkS.jpg

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...