Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

i have an issue at the moment with my brothers Nissan. I changed his water pump and thermostat with genuine Nissan items and did his fanbelts. Pressure tested his radiator and that seemed to have no leaks. i thoroughly flushed his cooling system at least 4 or 5 times since changing those items. i got the engine to operating temp and then dumped the coolant from radiator drain plug. waited til engined cooled and topped up with coolant. got engine back to operating temp and repeated process.

Now the issues is that while in traffic (even standstill peak hour) the temp doesnt go over halfway. Once out on the open road doing 100km/h it seems the engine temperature keeps climbing up to 2/3rds or 3/4s and he has to pull over. What could be the issue?

The coolant reservoir is cold and has coolant in it, he turned the heater on max heat and that seems to have kept the temp down so he can drive home but i want to know what issues there could be? :unsure:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/413461-overheating-while-on-higway/
Share on other sites

If the cooling system is bled properly with no airlocks and there are no leaks, it may point to lean running. I wouldn't go by the stock temp gauge though.

When running lean on the freeway the pistons get very hot, oil is used to cool the underside of the piston which then runs through the oil to water cooler. This can place extra strain on the cooling system.

The other issue will probably be the radiator, the tubes block up after a while and require replacement of the radiator or professional cleaning, with the tanks removed/replaced. I would be looking at this first.

Thanks for that. How do you personally bleed your cooling systems?

Also how do I tell if its running lean?

I have consult and ecu talk running. Stock Temp gauge says halfway but ecutalk says 95deg c. Could it simply be the sensor that is throwing incorrect values?

Thanks for that. How do you personally bleed your cooling systems?

Also how do I tell if its running lean?

I have consult and ecu talk running. Stock Temp gauge says halfway but ecutalk says 95deg c. Could it simply be the sensor that is throwing incorrect values?

Fan clutch is stuffed if no air locks , good coolant with proper amount, no blockages in grill or fins

Turn on the heater is it hot? To flush it needs to be set on hot or it will airlock the head

See if the fan engine off has a tiny bit of résistance when you spin it it should not freespin more then a quarter turn even hot

If it wont spin then its seized and needs replaced

Normally that sounds like a jet and power falls off trying to drag the fan faster

if the clutch freespins its not locking up when needed and results in overheating on road in traffic its prob spinning fast enough to cool and load is lighter

Common problems on rb

Check your oil !!

Edited by Carbon 34

Thanks for that. How do you personally bleed your cooling systems?

Also how do I tell if its running lean?

I have consult and ecu talk running. Stock Temp gauge says halfway but ecutalk says 95deg c. Could it simply be the sensor that is throwing incorrect values?

the stock temp gauge is designed to sit in the middle of the gauge from about 75 degrees up to about 100 degrees, and then it will skyrocket above that temp. this is to stop people panicking when the temp gauge moves to a bit hotter when going up a bit of a hill, etc.

as for bleeding the cooling system, remove the radiator cap, cut the base of a coke bottle and jam it in the radiator filler with some water/coolant in it (so it acts like a funnel) and turn the heater on and start the car. just in front of the intake plenum is a little round metal object with 2 thin hoses and a 10mm bolt on the top, as well as a warning about not opening when hot. this is the bleed screw. so remove this bolt. you should start to get some water coming out of this hole. when it is a solid stream then bolt the bolt back in and you're done.

but there is a good chance that the radiator is your issue if it's overheating on the highway.

Update;

That makes sense abouy the stock gauge. Most ppl would panic. Lol

The temp went to 99deg C via consult cable yet the gauge was still at halfway.

Anyway I decided to flush all the coolant out.

Stuck hose into radiator and kept it topped up. Disconnected return hose and let engine run. It seemed that the thermostat opened up as normal and then water started spewing out of return hose as expected. Engine maintained steady 80 to 84deg while doing this. I kept this up until water flowed clear as possible.

I emptied radiator and then filled it with coolant. And got engine but to operating but even though temp went past 90deg the radiator showed no signs of draining water into engine. Steam seemed to make its way out of return hose but the coolant still stayed in radiator.

All I can think of is blocked up radiator (but why did it let water through the engine from the running hose but then not the coolant?) And faulty thermostat, but that is brand new from Nissan.

Now I need to find a radiator for his car.

Edited by THRLLR
Now I need to find a radiator for his car.
No you don't.

Take the radiator to Natrad or other radiator service joint. They should be able to clean the cores, or provide you with a new core.

The radiator can have many of the tubes blocked, so water still flows through but its not cooled effectively. Some radiator shops will pull the end tanks off and push rods through the tubes to clear them out. Justjap have decent radiators for around $300 new.

there are plenty of cheap aluminium radiators on the net. they will do the job just fine. you can have the radiator professionally cleaned (as said above), but the cost of doing this is often not far off the cost of a cheap radiator. worth giving your local radiator place a call to ask them how much to clean it.

as for the water coming out with the hose but not with just the engine running, that could be a water pump issue, (even though you said you put a new pump in). or a thermostat issue. or just the tank being blocked so much that the pump can't flow enough water by itself

My radiator had a section about the size of a basket ball right in the middle that was completely blocked. water would still flow freely through the radiator, it would just run around the outside. It was overheating at highway speeds the same as yours.

A way to test it is to take the radiator out, put the cap on and lay it down on its side with the inlet and outlet facing up. boil the kettle and poor the hot water into it untill its full. Then take your hand and feel for cold spots.

Thanks for all the advice its awesome. I'll be pulling the radiator out again and I'll do the "cold patch" test mentioned above just to make sure the radiator is truly blocked. While I'm at it I may as well pull out the pump and thermostat and make sure they are fine.

I'll call natrad and see what they charge for a clean. Probably right though., a replacement won't be much more than a replacement.

Im another for the blocked radiator. Everything you describe is pointing at it blatantly.

Mine had a single core NA radiator in it, and did allright with 300kw on the track (two hot laps is all it would give me) and i saw 107 at the hottest. Temp gauge still sitting on half.

Threw in a big aluminium bugger and never looked back. So cheap and so easy.

Thanks for the info guys,

I have bought another radiator now and am going to slap it in this weekend and then taking the car for a highway cruise and we shall see, but im 99% confident this issue is about to be fixed!!

Edited by THRLLR
  • 3 years later...

Hey guys same issue with my r34 gtt running 300kw. Other day overheated on freeway. Cooled down in traffic but still would slowly rise. Done a full coolant flush and replaced thermostat plus coolant temp sensor just above top hose. Went to bleed system with x2 bleed screws. Rear one bleed through but front one didn't, plus heater doesn't work when was hot. Any ideas?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
    • -10 is plenty for running to an oil cooler. When you look at oil feeds, like power steering feeds, they're much smaller, and then just a larger hose size to move volume in less pressure. No need for -12. Even on the race cars, like Duncans, and endurance cars, most of them are all running -10 and everything works perfectly fine, temps are under control, and there's no restrictions.
    • Update: O2 sensor in my downpipe turned out to be faulty when I plugged in to the Haltech software. Was getting a "open circuit" warning. Tons of carbon buildup on it, probably from when I was running rich for a while before getting it corrected. Replaced with new unit and test drove again. The shuffle still happens, albeit far less now. I am not able to replicate it as reliably and it no longer happens at the same RPM levels as before. The only time I was able to hear it was in 5th going uphill and another time in 5th where there was no noticeable incline but applying more throttle first sped it up and then cleared it. Then once in 4th when I slightly lifted the throttle going over a bump but cleared right after. My understanding is that with the O2 sensor out, the ECU relies entirely on the MAP tune and isn't able to make its small adjustments based on the sensors reading. All in all, a big improvement, though not the silver bullet. Will try validating the actuators are set up correctly, and potentially setting up shop time to tune the boost controller on closed loop rather than the open loop it is set to now. Think if it's set up on closed loop to take the O2 reading, that should deal with these last bits. Will try to update again as I go. 
×
×
  • Create New...