Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I still can't wrap my head around brand new OEM coils for $250.. when they're like $100+ for each coil from most traders

100% genuine, genuine part numbers and packaging. From the states, same story as bob.

I couldnt believe the price also, hes a good person to deal with, very helpful and check his feedback

100% genuine, genuine part numbers and packaging. From the states, same story as bob.

I couldnt believe the price also, hes a good person to deal with, very helpful and check his feedback

I'm a tad hesistant on buying them, but you guys are saying they work

Well so was i for the price, but he says they come from a dealer in the states closed down or something like that.

For me the thing that done it was, his communication and have a look at his feedback, nearly 1000 @ 100% positive, nothing wrong with that!

Edited by Bw33zy

Bob, so did you buy it from the same link too?

http://www.ebay.com....1#ht_693wt_1271

I'm really tempted to buy them now to replace my homo mismatched Yellow Jackets

Just checked - and no was another Aussie ebayer and i paid $400 and he is not selling now so maybe he was a reseller - was over a year ago and they are still working fine!

  • 4 years later...
On 11/22/2012 at 0:14 PM, KiwiRS4T said:

They were over $1000 a set from Nissan!

I bought an ebay set and they look genuine and seem to work ok. I heard they came from a bankrupted Nissan dealer in the US though why they would have huge stocks of them I don't know. I hope they are not fake but are working so far at 20psi and 280kw. See what happens with a bit more power.

On another note a Stagea owner says his Yellowjackets broke down after 18 months!

Yay revive old post because I used the search function :P 

im considering the Fuji spark coils because I can actually afford them. But I have no clue what they're like and can only find old reviews from like 5 years ago. 

Or should I get yellow jacket?

its kinda pushing it for yellow jackets and then split fires which I'd love are just out of the picture currently

not sure if I should risk it or not 

 

1 hour ago, spudtatoe said:

Yay revive old post because I used the search function :P 

im considering the Fuji spark coils because I can actually afford them. But I have no clue what they're like and can only find old reviews from like 5 years ago. 

Or should I get yellow jacket?

its kinda pushing it for yellow jackets and then split fires which I'd love are just out of the picture currently

not sure if I should risk it or not 

 

I suggest you research wisely on what I have highlighted.

yeah search function will reveal most opinions on said highlighted product
i see more and more people selling used splitfirfes on fb pages, i would trust them over the cheaper options. 

Edited by GH05T
I suggest you research wisely on what I have highlighted.


Right... what exactly do you mean by that? Or is there anything in particular you are referring to?

yeah search function will reveal most opinions on said highlighted product
i see more and more people selling used splitfirfes on fb pages, i would trust them over the cheaper options. 


I took a look on Facebook and couldn't find any posts unfortunately

I have yellowjackets and they work fine [emoji14]
But my engine is standard, standard boost.
If you're going to push it, Splitfire or new OEM.


I've just got a standard 25RS Four Stagea, RB25DE NEO. So it's not exactly a high performing car haha.

I won't need expensive coils I take it


I've just got a standard 25RS Four Stagea, RB25DE NEO. So it's not exactly a high performing car haha.

I won't need expensive coils I take it

Try using Google for searching. Facebook isn't the place for info on this type of thing. I'll spell it out for you. Spitfire and oem is the way to go for standard style coilpacks. All the other brightly coloured ones have sketchy reputations. These days people convert to ls1/2 coils and Toyota yaris, Audi r8 amongst others. Just remember you get what you pay for. If you need more info than that, GOOGLE[emoji6]

Try using Google for searching. Facebook isn't the place for info on this type of thing. I'll spell it out for you. Spitfire and oem is the way to go for standard style coilpacks. All the other brightly coloured ones have sketchy reputations. These days people convert to ls1/2 coils and Toyota yaris, Audi r8 amongst others. Just remember you get what you pay for. If you need more info than that, GOOGLE[emoji6]

Yellow jacket are probably only about $100 cheaper. When I used google the first 10 results were all SAU. I'll do some research on LS coils

Cheers.
Ls coils are not direct fit. Oem or split fire is my recommendation. Whichever you can get cheaper or easier.

Figured that, not too sure whether I should just replace the shot one or go and buy a whole set. As I don't know if I want to replace one then have another one go down the road lol

I'm leaning towards splitfire but don't really have the money for a full set
I'd suggest selling the car cause you obviously can't afford the repair bills on it


Okay so I probably worded it wrong, I don't have money set aside for coils. Doesn't mean I don't have the money for them, I do, lol.

If that's the case and money is scarce, gap the plugs down to 0.6mm and see if that fixes it for now and keep a look out on eBay Gumtree forums for some used coils to mix and match to make a full set. I bought an oem set off ebay a year ago for $10 as spares, they also came with a loom. I tested them just to see if they where any good and they where. Good luck.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
    • Could be correct. Meter might be that far out. Compare against a known 5 ohm 1% resistor.
    • @Murray_Calavera  If I were an expert I wouldn't be in here looking for assistance.  I am extremely computer literate, have above average understanding on how things should be working and how they should tie together.  If I need to go to a professional tuner so be it, but I'd much rather learn and do things myself even if it means looking for some guidance along the way and blowing up a few engines. @GTSBoy  I was hoping it would be as simple as a large vacuum leak somewhere but I'm unable to find anything, all lines seem to be well capped or going where they need to be, and when removed there is vacuum felt on the tube.  It would be odd for the Haltech built in MAP to be faulty, the GTT tune I imported had it enabled from the start, I incorrectly assumed it was reading a signal from the stock MAP, but that doesn't exist.  After running a vacuum hose to the ECU the signal doesn't change more than 0.2 in either direction.   I'll probably upload a video of my settings tomorrow, as it stands I'm able to daily drive, but getting stuttering when giving it gas from idle, so pulling away from lights is a slow process of revving it up and feathering the clutch until its moving, then it will accelerate fine.  It sounds like I need to get to the bottom of the manifold pressure issue, but the ignition timing section is most intimidating to me and will probably let a pro do that part.  Tomorrow I'll try a different vacuum line to T off of, with any luck I selected one that was already bypassed during the DBW swap.  (edit: I went out and did it right now, the line I had chosen did appear to have no vacuum on it, it used to go to the front of the intake, I've now completely blocked that one off at the bracket that holds several vacuum lines by the firewall.  I T'd into the vacuum line that goes from that bracket to the vacuum pump at the front of the car, but no change in the MAP readings).  Using the new vacuum line that has obvious vacuum on the hose, im still only getting readings between -6.0 and -5.2.  I'm wondering why the ECU was detecting -5.3 when nothing was connected to the MAP nipple and ECU MAP selected as the source. @feartherb26  I do have +T in the works but wanted to wait until Spring to start with that swap since this is my good winter AWD vehicle.  When removing the butterfly, did it leave a bunch of holes in the manifold that you needed to plug?  I thought about removing it but assumed it would be a mess.   I notice no difference when capping the vacuum line to it or letting it do its thing.  This whole thing has convinced me to just get a forward facing manifold when the time comes though.
    • Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.
×
×
  • Create New...