Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Nice job Robbie.

Getting that rear subframe all cleaned up takes some time and patience.

Good job.

Always love OEM parts.

Cheers Anthony. Sure does. Need some more time to get stuck in and get it and the front one apart and then start on paint prep

awesome work. Loving the Tein strut braces!

Thanks mate, yeah they should do the job!

Quick update:

Got the bay painted today!! What a mission...not looking forward to trying to keep it looking like this when putting motor and everything else back in

Plan is to have motor, gearbox and complete front subframe finished and assembled and lower the body down onto them

Bit worried about getting the motor up through the middle of the chassis without scratching it

Anyone with experience, please let me know your thoughts

IMG_6463.JPG

IMG_6465.JPG

IMG_6466.JPG

IMG_6472.JPG

IMG_6474.JPG

IMG_6475.JPG

IMG_6476.JPG

IMG_6479.JPG

  • Like 1

I put my subframe and engine in from underneath. The only thing I dould think of would be to stick some carpet or something similar on the rails when sliding the engine up.

If you're going to do it with the intake manifold and turbo's bolted on then it'll be a bloody tight squeeze. I had probably less than a 10mm gap each side.

lovin this build!

Cheers Nick, doing my best with photos...wish I had the patience to do more and had a decent camera!

Hey just a quick question where abouts are you getting all your parts from, mainly the OEM parts?

PM sent

I put my subframe and engine in from underneath. The only thing I dould think of would be to stick some carpet or something similar on the rails when sliding the engine up.

If you're going to do it with the intake manifold and turbo's bolted on then it'll be a bloody tight squeeze. I had probably less than a 10mm gap each side.

Nice. Cheers for the input Michael. How did it work out for you? You get it done with no paint damage...would it help leaving the intake mani off and just bolt that on once in?

Just take your time and make sure it's lined up right. Shouldn't be too difficult when you think about it as this is how they do it when the cars are built.

My thoughts exactly Michael

I got a tiny bit of paint scrapage but nothing serious. My bay was pretty rough anyway so I wasn't too cautious.

The Inlet is a bit of a pain to work with and is easier to bolt on when the motor is out but I think the front diff hangs out almost as much as the manifold does anyway.

If it was me I'd just bolt it all on before hand again.

Mate great build so far.

not sure I'd say "1 OF A" kind..

perhaps you haven't seen this?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/140022-my-restoration/

Thanks mate. I am confident mine will not be the same as that 32R...

Plates suit any unique car not just mine so might be worth something to someone down the track...

Got the rear cleared out of and have a few problems/questions...

IMG_6508.JPG

IMG_6509.JPG

IMG_6512.JPG

Ok so questions:

1. Rear seatbelts - factory Nissan ones were still in car and mounted but had been cut....Aus seat belts had been installed (I assume as part of compliance) but they were mounted through the parcel shelf....these were mounted so poorly my jaw dropped upon inspection!

How are your rear seat belts mounted?

I have another 32R here and it has the OEM Nissan rear belts in it and looked safe and sound.

2. Rear interior trim removal - quarter panel glass is coming out and need to sort these seat belts, how do you remove this without breaking it to pieces???

Or is it just get it out and bin it then order new stuff?

3. Rear wiper removal - best just to source and install the the N1 grommet or whatever it is?

Thanks in advance, appreciate your input! Cheers

Also, not sure what to do with rear parcel shelf...

Was just going to strip the fugly carpet junk off and get black suede or similiar to suit rest of interior....anyone got any suggestions...perhaps something cool I don't even know about?

Suppose just see what upholsterers say...

Get a glass guy to come and remove your rear quarter windows, if they do break them they might even pay to replace the glass.

Cheers. Onto it Michael, got an unreal glass guy, he is organising new front windscreen etc as well

Thanks mate. I am confident mine will not be the same as that 32R...

Plates suit any unique car not just mine so might be worth something to someone down the track...

Got the rear cleared out of and have a few problems/questions...

IMG_6508.JPG

IMG_6509.JPG

IMG_6512.JPG

Ok so questions:

1. Rear seatbelts - factory Nissan ones were still in car and mounted but had been cut....Aus seat belts had been installed (I assume as part of compliance) but they were mounted through the parcel shelf....these were mounted so poorly my jaw dropped upon inspection!

How are your rear seat belts mounted?

I have another 32R here and it has the OEM Nissan rear belts in it and looked safe and sound.

2. Rear interior trim removal - quarter panel glass is coming out and need to sort these seat belts, how do you remove this without breaking it to pieces???

Or is it just get it out and bin it then order new stuff?

3. Rear wiper removal - best just to source and install the the N1 grommet or whatever it is?

Thanks in advance, appreciate your input! Cheers

Robbie with the rear wiper removal all you need is this

MoonfaceWiperHoleCapA_zpsea604f71.jpg

Costs $25 - fills in 36mm hole gap which is what you need and part number is OWC36

I am going to buy one so if you want one let me know as postage will be even cheaper.

I also got the matching N1 windscreen washer bottle, but is not mandatory.

For the rear seat belts I recall them being attached on the rear quarter panel pillars but I will have to check that again.

New seat belts can be obtained by Klippan Australia - I have the part numbers somewhere in my garage. I got it from Cheapa Autospares a few years back as Super Cheap did not stock them anymore.

Not sure about the rear quarter glass panel - I just know that they do not come in tinted versions anymore from Nissan so don't break it.

Edited by Ants

Robbie with the rear wiper removal all you need is this

MoonfaceWiperHoleCapA_zpsea604f71.jpg

Costs $25 - fills in 36mm hole gap which is what you need and part number is OWC36

I am going to buy one so if you want one let me know as postage will be even cheaper.

I also got the matching N1 windscreen washer bottle, but is not mandatory.

For the rear seat belts I recall them being attached on the rear quarter panel pillars but I will have to check that again.

New seat belts can be obtained by Klippan Australia - I have the part numbers somewhere in my garage. I got it from Cheapa Autospares a few years back as Super Cheap did not stock them anymore.

Not sure about the rear quarter glass panel - I just know that they do not come in tinted versions anymore from Nissan so don't break it.

Correction - part number for wiper hole delete cap is OWC30 - fills in 30mm hole which is accurate for the R32 Skyline.

Edited by Ants

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Possibly avoid using a Cometic one unless the deck/head surface are perfectly flat. I did have a look just then and forgiving gaskets such as Tomei or Nitto don't exist for the FJ20, however the Bar-Tek or Kameari ones look good and might do the trick.
    • Because pipe threads for pipe things. M threads for bolt things. Throw some teflon sealant onto it and dust your hands off knowing you did the right thing, instead of going twice around the block to achieve a result using the wrong things. Of course, all of these solutions are ignoring the fact that the minimum thread pitch we're talking about here is 1.25mm, with the 1/4" in NPT or BPS being out around 1.4mm. You will need to know that the boss you're tapping has enough thickness for at least a few threads. That's one of the reasons that 1/8" is commonly used - because the pitch is <1mm. And why would you look to use 1/4" NPT in a BSP country anyway? Ugh.
    • Just throwing around ideas, does it need to be in the compressor cover? Why not the hot side piping?
    • 1/8NPT drill size = 8.7mm. Since the hole got messed up by me, it’s probably around 9mm.    So 1/4” NPT would be next step. A drill size of around 11mm would be preferred there which is not way of my M12 (drill 10.5mm and tap M12 threads) 
    • 3 Kids are starting to hit that ages. I wanted to get them something special to learn on, put down the screens and have some fun. 4Door 2001 R34DE Black Pearl GV1 Jap Import, AU 2nd owner. Pre Work done. Suspension - Wheels Pedders SportsRyder Coilovers   Wheels TSG Spokey Boi 18'x9.5"+15 Body JASI Aero 4 door Type R Full Kit LED Conversion - Parker, Blinkers, & Reverse Exhaust Hurricane Headers 100 CPI high flow cat 2.5" Piping Cannon muffler Internal Bride low max stradia ii - front seats  Bride RO seat base and Rails (R/H) Cube short shifter LED Conversion - Interior   
×
×
  • Create New...