Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Anyway........... :ermm:

I think we all got a bit carried away for a while there.

I assume that the point of this thread is just to make suggestions on "Where to get your Skyline serviced" so here are my suggestions (take them or leave them):

1. Extreme Street Performance

2. Trojan Motorsport

3. Techworkz Automotive

These are the shops that have looked after me many times in the past and in my opinion are the only workshops worth taking your pride and joy to for tuning, servicing, modifications in or around Canberra.

Done :)

  • 4 months later...

Anyway........... :ermm:

I think we all got a bit carried away for a while there.

I assume that the point of this thread is just to make suggestions on "Where to get your Skyline serviced" so here are my suggestions (take them or leave them):

1. Extreme Street Performance

2. Trojan Motorsport

3. Techworkz Automotive

These are the shops that have looked after me many times in the past and in my opinion are the only workshops worth taking your pride and joy to for tuning, servicing, modifications in or around Canberra.

Done :)

Hey guys,

Looking to get a nistune ECU for my Stagea. Nistune because I'm budget conscious.. but I havent been able to find much info on who in Canberra has experience tuning these things. I walked into DTS today and they had no idea what I was talking about.

I've searched SAU, but was looking for some local (ACT) knowledge and/or opinion.

Thanks for that. The reason I highlighted techworkz was because they're close to my work and just convenient for me. I'd love to get my car to ESP or Trojan as they are known for working on RB's, but unfortunately unable to get there without it interfering with work.

Ill give them a call and suss it out.

Ok.. so turns out that they don't do any tuning because they don't have a dyno. They're happy to install etc, but organise tuning via ESP. *sigh*

Why would that be a problem?

Drop your car off at Techworkz for a day or so and then pick it up when it's done... They'll take it to ESP and have it tuned for you, it's a win-win situation :)

I hate this thread - there's heaps of comments in here on people's thoughts on workshops. Obviously the bad stuff can't be written.

I think we should lock it like they do in NSW when people ask these same questions. People need to call around and make up their own minds because all workshops come with good and bad stories.

send it to sydney and use it as an excuse for a day trip up there

Isn't there some discussion about having it tuned locally vs interstate? The whole air pressure at home and all that?

lol, but dont get me wrong.. love a roadtrip.

Why would that be a problem?

Drop your car off at Techworkz for a day or so and then pick it up when it's done... They'll take it to ESP and have it tuned for you, it's a win-win situation :)

why would you pay for a contractor to add a margin to someone you can deal with direct?

Most likely will head over to ESP and get it tuned and all that by them directly. I am after convenience, but at the same time I want to save $$$ anywhere I can.

The whole reason for this is because I was just after convenience.

I hate this thread - there's heaps of comments in here on people's thoughts on workshops. Obviously the bad stuff can't be written.

I think we should lock it like they do in NSW when people ask these same questions. People need to call around and make up their own minds because all workshops come with good and bad stories.

I hope I didn't come across like I didn't like one shop over the other, I just wanted to see what option best suited me.

  • 6 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Not this thread again! Lol.

I was wondering if there was a tyre shop around that treats cars like 'ours' with care. The reason I ask is because this particular shop in Tuggeranong, where i took my Stagea to, sped up to the hoists and smashed the front lip against the ramp. EVEN after I pointed out that it may happen! Not to mention that he sat in my car and finished the last puff of his ciggerette and threw it on the ground.

I will soon be buying new rims and will require rubber for them, and I would like to bring it to a place where I will have piece of mind knowing the rim and finish won't be damaged and my newly repaired front lip will not cop a beating. heheh!

Please feel free to PM me to avoid the inevitable debate.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...