Jump to content
SAU Community

Where to get Skyline Serviced

r33skylinegtst
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...
  • Replies 741
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

CeJay
CeJay

Thumbs up to import parts Canberra, had a timing belt service done by them, and have to say provided the best service by far out of any shop ive been to in Canberra.

nsanity
nsanity

anywhere in canberra sell these magical RB74 pads?

CeJay
CeJay

Anyone have any recommendations on auto electricians on the north side? Previously used spence auto electrics, but havent been there for ages. My power windows don't work at all at the moment. Which s

Posted Images

D.I.Y. Mik Veteran

D.I.Y. Mik

Posted
Posted

Suspension

Chris at Inline qbn, who is the local guru, had a heart attack just before doing an extensive job on the 32.

He is still working, however he cant take on the same workload as before, even though he has some helpers now.

So if you want the best be prepared to wait.

Second best is probably capital steering and suspension fyshwick.

I havent had work done by them, but they supplied my parts quickly, and others give them a good rap(earlier in this thread).

They have a large workshop and lots of workers, so im sure they would be quick on the job too.

But if your getting all adjustable arms and stuff, you want them adjusted right, so Inline is the way to go.

Ps.. my car was the s-box there, Porches, Ferrari, BMW, Merc, and some beautiful oldies like a Corvette and Mustang.

This guy really knows what he's doing. Nice bloke too.

D.I.Y. Mik Veteran

D.I.Y. Mik

Posted
Posted

A couple of weeks ago, probably from working too much.

Just before starting on the 32, but the last thing he needs is to stress about work. So i waited awhile before calling back.

Hes had many many well wishers and says hes a bit over it. I think heaps of people know him in the industry and motorsport.

Obviously has a lot of freinds, like i said, a nice bloke.

Maybe we could send him a get well soon card from SAU ACT, it would be nice, and unobtrusive.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
Humpty Dumpty Mentor

Humpty Dumpty

Posted
Posted

B N P is no more.

The guy that owned it bought Japspec Garage in mitchell.

That reminds me i gotta look and see if hes got something i want (2 rooms of bits apparently)

More than just two rooms mate. Pm with a list as there is a sale going on.

sweefu Mentor

sweefu

Posted
Posted

Bit of a story about my experience with ACT Brakes.

Today I had the hardline fittings flared for my hydraulic handbrake at ACT Brakes. They are terrible, I wouldn't recommend them at all.

First of all, they are very over priced. ABS in Fyshwick will flare the ends of hard brake line for $5.50 per flare, I like this shop and they do a good job, but their portable flaring tool was broken, so they could only flare hardline out of the car, not under the car like I needed.

ACT Brakes quoted $31.25 per flare! There were no other shops nearby to do the work, so I paid $125 to have the 4 flares done. Way way overpriced.

Secondly, when I arrived to pick my car up it was sitting outside in pouring rain with the two front windows down - both seats drenched and pools of water in the footwells (no carpet in my car)

Next, they said if I wanted the brakes bled it would cost a further $75, I said no and I will bleed them at home. When I picked the car up they said they bled them anyway, but the pedal goes flat to the floor, it was a very difficult drive home. Pretty poor that they couldn't even quickly bleed the brakes to a reasonable pedal feel, hydraulic handbrake or not they are supposed to be a brake shop.

Lastly, before I took the car in I drilled a hole in my transmission tunnel for the hardline to run through, I drilled a 13.5mm hole and put a rubber grommet in it - more than big enough for two pieces of hardline to run through. When I picked the car up, they had run 1 line through the hole with a grommet that I drilled, then they had drilled another hole next to it and didn't put a grommet, I left more grommets in the glovebox but I didn't know they were drilling a new hole and I forgot to tell them about the extra grommets. Either way, you would think a 'professional' brake shop would not leave a brake line running through a bare metal hole.

That's my rant. Overall, terrible experienced, shoddy work and very overpriced, I would not recommend these guys to anyone.

D.I.Y. Mik Veteran

D.I.Y. Mik

Posted
Posted

The ACT Brakes in Mitchell is well known for screwing people as they do a lot of rego inspections.

Pedders Belco is another bad one, most of the transmission shops in canberra etc etc.

Half the auto shops in Canberra are dodgy as.

Check out who has a good reputation and avoid all others.

Ps: Did you check out how much a flaring tool is? Or if one of us has one? I have pipe benders for that stuff. You got a drill and grommets....

sweefu Mentor

sweefu

Posted
Posted

Yep just as above ^ I had one lined up but that fell through at the last minute, needed to have it done in time for Wakefield this weekend.

I didn't post on any forums, I found out yesterday I couldn't use the tool I had arranged to so I started calling shops.

Flaring tools aren't that expensive but I needed a weird double flare, that is what makes the tools quite expensive (from what I found)

Pretty disappointing; I wonder how so many of these workshops stay in business.. perhaps all of their trade accounts?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • oHBoy.
      Starter motor replacment teeth count.

      By oHBoy. · Posted

      I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • suko
      J50 clock date suddenly reset to January 1

      By suko · Posted

      The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...