Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I think I can post here too now.....

As of yesterday....

  • Model of car V-Spec II, Built Oct 94
  • 'Chassis No' code BNR32313245

Also sourced from the Iron Chef (I think i can blame Cherry Racer - they teased me with a picture of his car as one of their recent imports ;-)

Short details:

Silver

Stock

Single owner

17,300 kms (full documented service history)

Grade 5A at auction

Obviously still in Japan so here's the auction snap (already plastered in other part sof the forum - but just so happy right now ;-)

attachicon.gif62595614a__0x0.gif

Cheers

The Baron

That looks amazing Baron. Awesome.

The headlight thing will polish out.

Whereabouts are you based?

The headlight is a bit odd, but I am confident it is nothing serious - more detailed pictures are expected tomorrow....... not too worried considering the provenance of the vehicle.

Will be based in Melbourne eventually.

Cheers

The Baron

The headlight is a bit odd, but I am confident it is nothing serious - more detailed pictures are expected tomorrow....... not too worried considering the provenance of the vehicle.

Will be based in Melbourne eventually.

Cheers

The Baron

Andreas, congratulations on your purchase. That is a rare find.

I know when I bought mine Steve at JJ said to buy it (advertised privately) because for him to get me one I would have to take what he could get, be it a $15k POS or $30k stunner. That was 3+ years ago now.. I still can't find words to describe how jealous I am of the latest edition either..

Edited by iplen

Rare enough that I thought we'd never find anything similar after we got Cherry Racer's car. This is once in 2 years-type.

I am eternally grateful ;-)

Cheers

The Baron

Holy crap! That's awesome.

We need to find you some nice mats Baron.

Are there reflectors on the rear edge of the doors? Were they an accessory?

Love the wind deflectors still in place.

I wonder what the following items are:

- object top left of dash, near left a-pillar

- object in passenger footwell

- recangular object to left of steering wheel

So cool! Sweeeeet car!

Absolutely beautiful!

Can someone tell me what the sticker is on the radiator fan shroud with the blue circle/dot?

Mine previously had it but no longer. Trying to track one down.

If we can get a close up, might be able to decipher. AC refrigerant label/type?

Holy crap! That's awesome.

We need to find you some nice mats Baron.

Are there reflectors on the rear edge of the doors? Were they an accessory?

Love the wind deflectors still in place.

I wonder what the following items are:

- object top left of dash, near left a-pillar

no idea on that yet - I believe from some of my japanese collegues at work that it could be some type of 'e-tag' tolling thingy......

- object in passenger footwell

that's a bin (yup - odd I know ;-)

- recangular object to left of steering wheel

- thats the connector of a cable dangling out of the centre vent - apparently connected to whatever was sitting on a mount on the centre dash - see attached picture for opposite side view. will be a pain to get rid of the mount I fear - depending on glue.....)

post-24453-0-97727800-1375398975_thumb.jpg

So cool! Sweeeeet car!

any ideas on where to find one would be apopreciated.... :-0

Cheers

The Baron

I would be trying to track down an original radio too Baron.
Very nice.

Mine has marks from similar aerials on the rear screen and from something having been glued to the dash in a similar place (but slightly different shape of "foot print") which was all part of an ancient and massive GPS system, the dash mount was for the screen, the aerials were for TV, the object on the dash might be GPS antenna. Mine still had the screen in the glovebox, but it was confused as all hell by being in Aus.. The mark on my dash is pretty hard to see where they took the mount off, it does however literally look like a boot mark, and raised a few questions when I first looked at the car..

  • Like 1

Well the auction sheet apparently mentioned a similar navigation system so it'll be interesting to find out exactly. Maybe my screen is still in the glove box too....

Cheers

The Baron

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...