Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 N1 Headlamp Question

freyb

By freyb,
in Exterior & Interior Styling

 Share

Recommended Posts

(OO)SKYLINE(OO) Grand Master

(OO)SKYLINE(OO)

Posted
Posted

are the grill mounts detachable for the n1 headlamps? or are they moulded to the housing? iv seen some n1 types that have the mounts and some doesnt have it..attachicon.gifimages.jpgattachicon.gifpicture008g.jpg

With mounts = R32 GTR N1 headlights, to secure front grill.

Without mounts = R32 GTS-T headlights.

R32GOJIRA Mentor

R32GOJIRA

Posted
Posted

With mounts = R32 GTR N1 headlights, to secure front grill.

Without mounts = R32 GTS-T headlights.

This is not entirely correct.

No the standard GTS-t's did not have the clips for the grill, although they did have screw holes for an option to fit the brackets (which were metal) for a GTR style grill. You can get these through NISSAN. So any reflector style (N1 style) headlights that have the brackets which are held on by screws and are removable, are NOT genuine N1s.

The genuine N1s have the brackets which are plastic and are molded into the body of the headlight itself. These are NOT removable.

Ants Grand Master

Ants

Posted
Posted (edited)

This is not entirely correct.

No the standard GTS-t's did not have the clips for the grill, although they did have screw holes for an option to fit the brackets (which were metal) for a GTR style grill. You can get these through NISSAN. So any reflector style (N1 style) headlights that have the brackets which are held on by screws and are removable, are NOT genuine N1s.

The genuine N1s have the brackets which are plastic and are molded into the body of the headlight itself. These are NOT removable.

Sorry Damien but that is not accurate.

(OO)SKYLINE(OO) is right.

Genuine N1's do not come with plastic brackets molded into the headlight. Standard R32 projector type headlights do.

If you were to source N1 (Zenki) Headlights from Nissan they come with metal brackets that are bolted each N1 headlight.

GTS'ts have N1 type headlights without brackets and can sometimes fool people that they are genuine N1 headlights.

I have both sets (with N1 recently purchased) be more than happy to post up pics for comparison.

Edited by Ants
R32GOJIRA Mentor

R32GOJIRA

Posted
Posted

Hey Ant,

I spoke to Kudos (SAU trader) about 6 months ago about this same thing as i was after genuine Zenki N1s, and he supplies them direct from NISSAN Japan, and he assured me the brackets were molded plastic (like the GTR projectors) and are part of the body and not removable. This is what distinguishes the difference between the N1 and the GTS items.

I did a fair bit of research into this as i was searching for a set myself, and i found a lot of conflicting information and could not get a straight answer, so i spoke to a specialist who deals in new original Nissan parts.

Ill ask someone on here who i know purchased a set through them so i can get a straight answer and ill let you guys know.

Ants Grand Master

Ants

Posted
Posted

i prefer my projectors ;)

i wonder why they never moulded the braket on?

Well I have both. So change it when I want :yes:

No idea why N1's were not molded on - maybe it was in case they got damaged in racing it was easier to fix up :closedeyes:

luke gtr Grand Master

luke gtr

Posted
Posted

Well I have both. So change it when I want :yes:

No idea why N1's were not molded on - maybe it was in case they got damaged in racing it was easier to fix up :closedeyes:

hmmmm, bolts=metal, they should be moulded for light weight :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...